I'm rebuilding a h22a4 engine and was hopping to get some suggestions on some worth while mods and upgrades that wont break the bank. My budget is around 3k. Going to keep the engine NA.
Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.
Also, anyone who has completed a rebuild can give some tips on what to do and not to do. Where are most of the hangups going to be.
Make sure to do your research on the sleeves. They can practically only be honed and it's a different process with different stones compared to most cars. What is it, .002 over? And it doesn't have cross hatching, correct me if I'm wrong. You could always get some mahle pistons that will work with your stock sleeves though. The best thing to do is search on this site and honda-tech. Do tons of research, whether you do it yourself or a shop does it. I like to ask them questions I already know before I let them touch my lude.
Also, anyone who has completed a rebuild can give some tips on what to do and not to do. Where are most of the hangups going to be.
...well your biggest hang up is goin to be money....as in you do not have enough of it to do a full rebuild with performance in mind. a budget of 3000 is very low for that kind of build. sorry.
Hello, sorry I got nothing that can help you but maybe you can help
me, I'm also trying to rebuild my h22 if you already did it e
please send me an e-mail at redprelude1@verizon.net
for 3k you can swap a low mile jdm engine. And you can rebuild a engine for under 3k it just depends if you are using stock parts or aftermarket. If i didn't go high end i got quoted around 2200 for a bottom end rebuild including new sleeves and forged pistons.
I recommend finding out which part is bad and just rebuilding that (head or bottom end).
Hey guys, for everyone stating it's too low, throw out some ideas on what a good "budget" build would run. I'm sure there are plenty of people who would like to know what a good starting point is for a proper build...I'm actually one of them...
Hey guys, for everyone stating it's too low, throw out some ideas on what a good "budget" build would run. I'm sure there are plenty of people who would like to know what a good starting point is for a proper build...I'm actually one of them...
The answer depends on if you can do your own work. If it's your first time, you are most likely going to make mistakes, which basically costs money.
If you are mechanically experienced, the cost of a build goes down. If you pay someone else, your reliability goes up, but it will be quite a bit more expensive.
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I am currently getting my engine rebuilt but I found all my parts second hand but new in box. Obviously some parts i could do without. These are the prices I paid but I got lucky on a few.
Block sleeved : 600
JE pistons: 500
Hondata: 600
Skunk2 stage 2 cams: 550
Skunk2 retainers: 100
Skunk2 valve springs: 100
Eagle h beam rods: 300
AEM tru time cam gears: 130
Tri Y replica: 325
Hi Flow cat: 60
Twin loop exhaust: 95
Probably another 7-800 in misc bolts,seals, labor and tuning. Should have full price in about a month when car is finished.
I was quoted for a budget build under 2200. Would have kept stock head but sleeved block and forged pistons stock rods, new bearings and seals. All work being done at PFI in FT. Collins.
I appreciate all the input, from what I gathered, I guess it depends on what kind of motor your looking for, what kind of experience your working with, and how much money you have to spend.
For my rebuild, I have an experienced friend "looking" over my shoulder while I do the labor. I haven't completely decided on what replacement parts I want; haven't finished research.
I pulled the motor out yesterday and will keep y'all informed on how my spending goes and what parts I choose.
Thanks again.
The answer depends on if you can do your own work. If it's your first time, you are most likely going to make mistakes, which basically costs money.
If you are mechanically experienced, the cost of a build goes down. If you pay someone else, your reliability goes up, but it will be quite a bit more expensive.
Just looking for ballpark figures. I understand labor costs more but for the "correct" parts which doesn't change much, what would be a good starting point price wise...for example: "A basic "inexpensive" build should cost _____ dollars for parts". With the understanding that Labor would be more. Also what are the parts recommended? Sleves? Pistons? Crank? Rods? Cams? Valvetrain parts?
I am currently getting my engine rebuilt but I found all my parts second hand but new in box. Obviously some parts i could do without. These are the prices I paid but I got lucky on a few.
Block sleeved : 600
JE pistons: 500
Hondata: 600
Skunk2 stage 2 cams: 550
Skunk2 retainers: 100
Skunk2 valve springs: 100
Eagle h beam rods: 300
AEM tru time cam gears: 130
Tri Y replica: 325
Hi Flow cat: 60
Twin loop exhaust: 95
Probably another 7-800 in misc bolts,seals, labor and tuning. Should have full price in about a month when car is finished.
I was quoted for a budget build under 2200. Would have kept stock head but sleeved block and forged pistons stock rods, new bearings and seals. All work being done at PFI in FT. Collins.
Nice build you've got going there...is that Hondata a s300/P72?
i hope this question isnt too stupid when i ask it, i am still learning and researching. when doing a rebuild, what is the recommended procedure for the cylinder walls, getting them sleeved, honed, coated, machined? I dont plan on racing the motor. Can i get some advice from somebody on that. Also, if your cylinder walls are damaged, is this something the "untrained" will be able to notice. If i upgrade the pistons, will i have to upgrade the cylinder walls?
Also one last question, would anyone recommend shipping off your block/head to a reputable company or trying to find a trustworthy local shop to do the work?
Im in Chesapeake, VA if anyone knows of local shops.
If you want to run anything other than OEM (including Type S) or Mahle Gold pistions (also possibly those ebay Nipon pistons), then you need to resleeve with iron sleeves.
FRM sleeves you have 0.25mm to play with. Any scaring deeper than that and you would have to resleeve. Should be able to get an idea of the condition by visually inspecting as well as running your finger across the surface.
For a simple rebuild, there is no need to resleeve. If you have more serious goals, then you may want to resleeve even if your FRM sleeves are ok.
If I honed the cylinder walls would that take care of any minor imperfections within the wall's? Does the process make the cylinder walls basically new again?
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