I need all the info I can get on the h series boring and stroking info. I will be going for a very high put out motor and need every edge I can get. Whats the maximum bore stroke recommended for a car that will see some street use yet, and hell on the track? Info/ links/ advise please. Thanks
okay okay alot of info was said in just these few posts, but I want somemore explaining........ destroking the motor, how is that done, and wouldent that yeild less power and far less torque??
and also the h23, couls I bore that out a little and get a liittle more displacement out of it.
I not sure of stroking the engines, becasue I will be running monster compression, so yea...stroking high compression, valves.
But I also want to redline around 8 or above, could I do this with the h23 block?
8 or above with an H23 bottom end? You could, but the wear and tear on the engine will probably be greatly accelerated. Why do you want to rev above 8? Are you planning to change the gearing in the tranny to take advantage of the additional rev capacity?
Destroking is lowering the stroke of the engine. This can be done with an F20B crank or by offset grinding the stock crank.
Compression and stroke are usually mutually exclusive, building-wise.
ok well i will prob change the gears for shorter ones, I looking for the most power and torque cobo I can get so whatever will give me this I will do. I see the F20b will go only in the open deck block of the a4's. And the advantages to this for me would be? Im looking into setting the prelude chasis in the record books, I need every edge I can get.
Originally posted by h22a193 Im looking into setting the prelude chasis in the record books, I need every edge I can get.
In which record books? Also it might help if people new your budget. If you have an unlimited budget and want the absolute best you can get, I'm sure some people here can give you examples of what they would do with an unlimited budget.
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2point6 dynoed at 247.7hp/182.4tq on 11/4/03. I think his setup has changed since then. At the time he had the following setup:
Engine Block: '93 H22a "bored and stroked" to 2.44ltrs of displacement built by Collective Racing. Custom 98mm crank (Balanced and nitrited), Darton sleeves, Crower Pro-billet rods, Custom 12/1 compression 89mm JE pistons, Prodrive oil pump, Unorthodox Racing crank pulley, manual timing belt tensioner conversion.
Cylinder head: Ported and polished by Collective Racing, Web Cams custom camshafts, Web Cams springs and Titainium retainers, Euro Type R manifold conversion, Hondata intake manifold gasket, Erick's Racing 70-68mm Throttle body, RC engineering 440cc Fuel injectors, B&M fuel pressure riser and Guage, STR cam seal, AEM cam gears, SMSP 4-2-1 header (prototype #3), ARP head studs, ARP main studs, Cometic head gasket.
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im looking to put down about 270 + on the motor, ^ those numbers above are great, I have talked to him and his set up is pretty conservitive for what Im planning on doing, I want to run the same basice block head setup execpt differnt cams, managment, Induction system, and the differ sms header. Im looking into being the first in the 11's in a street body prelude................Think Im crazy, I dont car think all you wont, its just a dream, I get closer to it every day.
Originally posted by h22a193 im looking to put down about 270 + on the motor, ^ those numbers above are great, I have talked to him and his set up is pretty conservitive for what Im planning on doing, I want to run the same basice block head setup execpt differnt cams, managment, Induction system, and the differ sms header. Im looking into being the first in the 11's in a street body prelude................Think Im crazy, I dont car think all you wont, its just a dream, I get closer to it every day.
There are race teams out there with much bigger budgets than you. Having a dream is fun, but having one that is far disconnected from reality will be a giant money pit.
If you want to do what you are asking, here is what you would need according to the online calculator:
Choose a '92 4th gen lude as a best weight starting point. Total vehicle weight, including driver, must be under 2200 lbs at 250 WHP in order to be in the high 11s. If you weigh 150 for example, then you need a 2000 pound car. Good luck with that one. 2200 might be possible, but there a lot of little stuff that would have to be done for that. It wouldn't even be close to stock trim. You can read this thread to get an idea of what you are in for.
2point6 once said he spent more than 8 grand on his build, and he is still around 245 WHP. Plan on spending at least 10k on 250, because Scott does all his own labor. You are looking at a lot of custom parts for that build. If you do build something like that, you would be hard pressed to make it reliable, that's for sure.
You could always go methanol, that would get you 270 WHP. Hardly streetable though.
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