fully built H22 makes weird noise at Idle(video's) - Honda Prelude Forum

Yuleluder · 03-17-2006, 07:53 AM

Last night I went back into the timing belt cover to try and discover what that noise was. First I removed the PS pump, started the car and once it reached idle the noise was still there. I then removed the Alternator belt and ran the car, and once it reached idle the noise was still there. I then removed the balancer shaft belt ran the engine and once it reached idle the noise was still there. I checked all the pulley's for any wear I didn't see anything. I don't know whether I should be worried or not. Anyone have anyt ideas on this noise?

Video before idle(6 seconds long)
before idle

Video after reaching idle(6 seconds long)
after reaching idle

71dsp · 03-17-2006, 08:10 AM

Do you have the manual or autotensioner installed? I didn't read through your whole thread on H-T.com, but can you describe the sound?

There was an H22 that I worked on that made a very odd noise. It was a scuffing metal on metal sound. Hard to describe, but anyway, we loosened the accessory belts with no success. He had a manual tensioner installed. I retensioned the belt with the procedure in the Helms and the noise went away. The only conclusion I could draw is that the timing belt was too tight to begin with.

If you want, you can e-mail me the vids.

BTW, I'm 117 on H-T, but I spend the majority of my time here.

Yuleluder · 03-17-2006, 08:18 AM

Email Sent! I have the manual Tensioner.

71dsp · 03-17-2006, 09:11 AM

Did you set the tension per the Helms manual?

Yuleluder · 03-17-2006, 09:30 AM

I only have a 97-98 Prelude Helms.

71dsp · 03-17-2006, 09:34 AM

How did you set the tension then?

Yuleluder · 03-17-2006, 09:49 AM

Too be honest with you, I just put it on as tight as I could.

71dsp · 03-17-2006, 10:09 AM

Chances are the belt is too tight. I'll have to watch the video at home. I can't do it at work.

Yuleluder · 03-17-2006, 11:34 AM

How tight should the actual belt be? Should I just loosen the Tensioner(14mm), then loosen the 10mm(one with the slot). Turn the crank over twice check timing, and then lock down the 2 bolts where they are.

When I installed the TB I got some good leverage and dorve the slotted part of the manual tensioner up, until it wouldn't go any further, then I locked it down. I tried to make the TB as tight as possible. I'm almost betting that's what it is. Somebody shoot me a procedure for the manual tensioner.

Yuleluder · 03-17-2006, 12:24 PM

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...G+BELT+%282%29

I'm talking about #18 in the pic

71dsp · 03-17-2006, 01:23 PM

Someone already posted the correct procedure in your thread on H-T.com.

Basically set the engine to TDC on #1 on the compression stroke, loosen the tensioner, turn the cams three teeth CCW, tighten the tensioner.

You don't need the 10mm bolt on the slotted portion of the manual tensioner. Just the 14mm nut on the end of the stud that hold the tensioner in place. If you use that 10mm bolt, you won't be able to adjust the timing belt tension with the lower cover in place.

Just out of curiousity, why would a person try such a modification on a critical engine part without having the proper procedures and specifications? It amazes me the things that people (not you in particular) attempt to do withtout the proper instruction!

Yuleluder · 03-17-2006, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Just out of curiousity, why would a person try such a modification on a critical engine part without having the proper procedures and specifications? It amazes me the things that people (not you in particular) attempt to do withtout the proper instruction!

I know, I'm quite mad at myself! After all the research I did for everything else. I did the auto to manual tensioner swap years ago, and never thought anything of it. Could be why my car never seemed to run right then.

Quote:

turn crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE 3 teeth on the cam gears, hold, tighten tentsioner to 40 ft/pounds

Quote:

turn the cams three teeth CCW, tighten the tensioner.

Turn just the cam gears to tighten up the belt on the intake side? Or turn the crank(whole assembly)?

71dsp · 03-17-2006, 01:50 PM

You're not going to be able to turn one without turning the other. The belt doesn't stretch that much.

Turn the CRANK CCW, don't try to turn the belt using the cam gears.

Yuleluder · 03-17-2006, 07:19 PM

Retensioned timing belt and now the sound is gone. Thx for your help. Now to get this baby to her full potetial. I also found out where that water came from on the Dyno. The large o-ring on the water pipe(water pump side) didn't seal or burst. I saw water/antifreeze leaking from it tonight when it wasn't running. It came in a gasket kit which wasn't Honda OEM. The O-ring was a bit smaller then the one that came out. I knew I should have replaced it with an OEM.

71dsp · 03-17-2006, 09:13 PM

You didn't think I knew what I was talking about huh?

When you install the o-ring, put a drop of liquid dish soap on your finger and smear it all over the o-ring. It'll help everything go together easier without tearing the o-ring and causing a leak.

Yuleluder · 03-18-2006, 07:04 AM

So here's my next delimma after I fix the o-ring of course. I was thinking about getting one of those wide band O2 sensors to measure air fuel ratio, I saw one for like $450.00. But then I was thinking maybe I should just invest in an EMS that has a wide band O2. I surely don't want to go back to the dyno and waste $330.00 on tweaking my fuel curve. Does anyone have any ideas?

71dsp · 03-18-2006, 07:12 AM

Get a stand alone and have a good tuner tune it.

Yuleluder · 03-18-2006, 01:58 PM

I keep getting the knock sensor P0325 code. Happens on 2nd driving cycle. I'm starting to believe this is why my car is running so rich. Knock sensor may be retarding the timing because of the forged pistons?