4. 12 April 2004 - 67.5 °F, 16 %
-AEM CAI
-AEM PS Pulley
-Mugen Header
-Thermal Cat-back
-Mobil 1 0W30, Bosch Oil Filter (all 220 miles old)
Now when I was dynoing for time #2 & #3, something was wrong with the car. The car WAS not putting the power to the wheels... when I got it up on the lift on 12 April, I quickly discovered what the problem was. When I was on the dyno, the engine was tq'ing a HELL of alot. Well when on the lift we noticed a bolt missing... hmm... Which one? the front engine mount bolt had broke!!! So I threw a new one in there (THIS IS NOT EASY TO DO w/ everything together!!!) The runs without the bolt in are marked w/ *
well I did... kinda I was just missing the bolt...
I have a stock cat vs. high flow dyno... I was just missing my freaking front engine mount LOL... my cat was in perfect shape and I gained about 2 tq... NOTHING REALLY AT ALL LOL
The only reason I think I gained the 2tq is because of the larger diameter
Keep in mind, this is a high-flow cat and not a test pipe I got an e-check (emissions check) here and the high-flow cat actually slightly improved my emissions
I dynoed at Colletti Motorsports (www.collettimotorsports.com)
this is a race specific specialty shop, they are rather $$ but have great results
WTF! How can you make 178hp without a damn VAFC? Hell, you don't even have an alternator pulley!
That is also with a BBK which should make you read lower than actual hp.
One thing is your 0w30 oil. That's a BIG difference. I suspect that could account for as much as 3-5hp vs 10w30.
I guess this proves pretty conclusively that a Mugen header is good for 8 or so hp all by itself. So why the F%&* did I blow $350 on a F$%&*in' DC!?!?!
__________________
97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Last edited by fmshaw1971; 04-15-2004 at 01:05 PM.
Originally posted by ludehawk
[B]How? without a VAFC? I dunno... but I should get more out of my standalone... wait... damnit... I'm giving my secret plans away
Oh sure, go and get a Hondata too! You probably just have one of those freak high compression engines.
Quote:
About the alternator pulley... I couldn't get the damned thing off
That's odd. You didn't have any trouble removing your motor mount bolt before the dyno.
Quote:
You're right.. lemme take my BBK off... that is a HELL OF alot of rotating mass I can get rid of
Yep, that massive 13.1" rotor is a bish!
Quote:
0W doesn't make that big of a diff hehe, I have a few other dynos up my sleeve I might show them to you later.
Redline says that you can gain/lose 2% for each step you move up/down in viscosity. That could be as much as 8hp. See, you're not so tough now! You're just a 170hp engine with 8hp oil.
Quote:
BTW - I think your wing is ****ing your dyno results... your lude is saying 'i'm not gonna put out until you get that **** off my a$s
Hey, that ain't no wing! It's a smoke diffuser. It diffuses the massive cloud of smoke that follows me whenever I VTEC in WOT.
Good results on the dyno BTW!
__________________
97 EGP Base 5spd Prelude. Engine: DC short ram, DC SS headers, AEM pulleys, Random High flow cat, Mugen sport exhaust, Apexi VAFC. Suspension: Tein SS, Tanabe front lower tie, Neuspeed front upper strut, Neuspeed rear sway, Tanabe rear upper strut, DC rear lower tie, 17X7.5 5Zigen Typhoons with 215/40/17 Goodyear F1 GS-D3s. Other: Bride Ergo II, Spoon oil cap, Magnecor wires, relocated Odyssey 680 battery, Denso iridiums, Mugen pedals, Mugen lugnuts, shortened shifter w/ Momo airleather, Rotora slotted rotors and Endless NA-Y pads, Goodridge SS lines.
Originally posted by fmshaw1971 I guess this proves pretty conclusively that a Mugen header is good for 8 or so hp all by itself. So why the F%&* did I blow $350 on a F$%&*in' DC!?!?!
Hold on a sec on that conclusion...
Ludehawk: What ARE you tuning with. You have the flatest A/F Ratio I have seen so far.
I have AEM ColdAir, DC Header, Thermal CB, and Slightly corrected VAFC.
I'm the Blue One compared to Ludehawk's closed combo with PS pulley. Obviously the tuning and addition of a high-flow cat and pulleys made more power than mine. I may try that next.
seriously... absolutely NONE! I don't have a VAFC, FPR, nothing (aka STOCK)
I'll be tuning it soon though
also, that dyno isn't the one you should be comparing too... do it w/ runfile_012 or 013 That will give you a better comparison as I didn't have a front engine mount in #4...
wow those are some REALLY nice numbers. I compared them with my celica dyno files and your AF is freaking perfect. you make a good ammount of power more then me all over the entire RPM range. The h22a4 is a TQ monster compared to the 2zz-ge.
Originally posted by ludehawk also, that dyno isn't the one you should be comparing too... do it w/ runfile_012 or 013 That will give you a better comparison as I didn't have a front engine mount in #4...
Well I didn't compare that one because you had the high-flow cat AND the header. The other one only had the main difference being the header. BTW since you're not doing any A/F tuning, that graph must have been a dummy graph/dummy plot...it was reading 14.7 or something...very odd I was thinking.
and if you want to compare the mugen header and stock cat... use run #10, that one has the A/C on... but I do have the engine mount bolt on... which caused a 15% decrease in power overall.
Originally posted by pIOUs
Well I didn't compare that one because you had the high-flow cat AND the header. The other one only had the main difference being the header. BTW since you're not doing any A/F tuning, that graph must have been a dummy graph/dummy plot...it was reading 14.7 or something...very odd I was thinking.
ahaha, beat me to it.
Didn't anyone wonder when he said he didn't have any tuning methods at all? 14.7. stoichiometric. looks like a dummy plot to me.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
j/k 
I was just missing the bolt...
That's odd. You didn't have any trouble removing your motor mount bolt before the dyno. 
Linear Mode
