Click here if you are bored and a bit crazy - Honda Prelude Forum

laughin2.2 · 02-16-2003, 02:47 PM

So I'm going up to a 100 shot this season. That should put me around 250-270 whp. I figure that is enough for a stock motor so I have no real desire to put cams or any other mods into this motor. Being a broke college student(ie. it's taking me 3 months to get an S100 and some tuning) I figure that it is time to start building a second motor up.
I plan on grabbing a blown H22A1 for cheap and building that up. I will start on the bottom end for three reasons:
1. It will hold more nitrous
2. A crazy head won't make good horsepower on a 10:1 cr.
3. I can throw a stock head on it and still benefit from high cr pistons.

Basically I'm asking for your ideas as far as the bottom end is concerned(ie. parts, brands, boring the motor out, stroker kit, etc.). If you have some dream motor in your mind lets hear it. I need to start getting the specs and such figured out before I go out and buy parts. The only rules are that it has to run on 93 octane and be sleeved.

red92si · 02-16-2003, 04:30 PM

Here would be a dream bottom end for me... If this in for total NA.

* Golden Eagle Sleeves
* Micropolished and Knifeedged F20B Crank
* Crower Rods
* JE 87.25mm 11.5:1 Pistons
* Remoce Balancer Shafts
* Balance Entire bottom end

sharkcohen · 02-16-2003, 05:22 PM

Definitely what Tyler said, that's pretty much what I was going to recommend.

laughin2.2 · 02-16-2003, 08:06 PM

Has it been proven that the F20b crank works? Also doesn't that decrease the size of the motor?

red92si · 02-16-2003, 10:59 PM

The F20B crank will decrease the displacement to 2 Liters. But the F20B crank is alot beefier than the H series cranks... It is also alot more compact, allowing it to rev faster. Dropping the .2 (or .3) liters also allow the engine to rev faster (shorter rods, less mass)...

Joel is putting an F20B crank in his H22 block, so I guess we will find out if it works good.

laughin2.2 · 02-16-2003, 11:07 PM

2L, good lord. I'm trying to get more displacement. I have to stuff alot of fuel into just four cylinders. It's safe to say that the F20B crank won't be going in my motor. What are my options with boring the motor out?

spite · 02-17-2003, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by red92si
The F20B crank will decrease the displacement to 2 Liters. But the F20B crank is alot beefier than the H series cranks... It is also alot more compact, allowing it to rev faster. Dropping the .2 (or .3) liters also allow the engine to rev faster (shorter rods, less mass)...

Joel is putting an F20B crank in his H22 block, so I guess we will find out if it works good.

The F20B crank needs longer rods. If there's less stroke, you need to add rod length to make sure the pistons go the right length into the head for proper compression.

Satan_SRV · 02-17-2003, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by spite

The F20B crank needs longer rods. If there's less stroke, you need to add rod length to make sure the pistons go the right length into the head for proper compression.

1) My F20B crank has longer F20B rods, something like 144.5mm I don't have exact tools.
2) Tyler your dream setup of JE 11.5:1 pistons will be more like 10.8 with the F20B crank, less disp., lower compression.
3) F20B in an H22a is 2.1L, 2093cc. Remeber the regular F20B is 85mm bore.

alphajesse · 02-18-2003, 01:05 PM

try to get a 98-up h22a4, that way you will have bigger mains. that will certianly help with the bottom end strength.

laughin2.2 · 02-18-2003, 01:39 PM

Then I've got an open deck though.

paulyg · 02-18-2003, 09:05 PM

My take:

Use these sleeves to close the deck:
http://www.darton-international.com/main_fr.htm
Use the JE 11.5:1 forged pistons, knife edge & balance the h22a4 stock crank, and use the crower rods.

BTW, the JE site says 11.5:1 CR pistons are not for use w/ nitrous. They worried about detonation from the high CR or casuing damage from high cyl pressures?

laughin2.2 · 02-18-2003, 09:42 PM

11.5:1 cr is fine with nitrous. The valvetrain will be upgraded as well to handle the head and pressure, and I will have the thing tuned very well.

19924ws · 02-19-2003, 12:03 PM

The reason it can rev higher is bec there is less harmonics with the smaller stroke. Also with the small stroke and longer rods, they both reduce the exit angle of the rod from the cylinder bore. The less the angle the less prone the rods are to breaking at high RPM. Satan should know about exit angles and high RPM operation.

schwett · 02-19-2003, 09:02 PM

well if you're sleeving it, that's not really an issue. a GE sleeved h22a4 will hold more power than you'll ever make!

Quote:

Originally posted by laughin2.2
Then I've got an open deck though.

Ritteri · 02-19-2003, 10:09 PM

Bottem end buildup on my rig:

1. Polished crank(knifedging is 100% useless on our cars which have a windage tray)
2. Crower billet rods
3. ENDYN rollerwave pistons(11:1 CR for large shot apps on pump gas)and rings
4. GE sleeves(installed by a local machine shop)
5. Prodrive oil pump gear set
6. whole cranshaft assembly balanced(including flywheel and crankshaft pulley)

This is the ideal bottom end on the H22 in my book.

19924ws · 02-19-2003, 11:24 PM

Yeah that sounds like a pretty stoudt bottom end.

red92si · 02-20-2003, 01:19 AM

^^Indeed...

If I had extra money just laying around I would build a high revving 2 liter

cuseC08 · 03-05-2003, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by laughin2.2
So I'm going up to a 100 shot this season. That should put me around 250-270 whp. I figure that is enough for a stock motor so I have no real desire to put cams or any other mods into this motor. Being a broke college student(ie. it's taking me 3 months to get an S100 and some tuning) I figure that it is time to start building a second motor up.
I plan on grabbing a blown H22A1 for cheap and building that up. I will start on the bottom end for three reasons:
1. It will hold more nitrous
2. A crazy head won't make good horsepower on a 10:1 cr.
3. I can throw a stock head on it and still benefit from high cr pistons.

Basically I'm asking for your ideas as far as the bottom end is concerned(ie. parts, brands, boring the motor out, stroker kit, etc.). If you have some dream motor in your mind lets hear it. I need to start getting the specs and such figured out before I go out and buy parts. The only rules are that it has to run on 93 octane and be sleeved.

what shot did you have before? 75shot? and is it direct port? single port? what did you run at the track, cuz i'm gonna have NX 75 dp system and i am wondering what i'll run 1/4 mile time.