Biggest Bang for the Buck? - Honda Prelude Forum

vainot4u · 01-23-2010, 11:47 PM

Okay guys/gals I hope this isn't a totally retarded question...but it may be knowing me.

I've been doing some research on what to do with the Prelude I drive daily. I like the car quite a bit but want to do some stuff to develop more power. I am a frugal spender but have no issues spending money when I believe it is needed or well worth the money spent. Now with that said the problem I am having is that I don't need to go all out with my setup, I'd like to see 200 WHP but I think I may be optimistic in my power goals, and I definitely don't have an issue with backing those numbers down. Okay enough beating around the bush, what I am asking is what mods provide the best HP per dollar spent RELIABLY? I posted this in NA section because too many FI guys have blown the ring lands for my liking, and I don't plan on building the whole motor. I have the JDM H22A, which brings up one more thought for you to think about...

USDM H22A4 10.0:1 compression 197 HP and 156 FT-LBS
JDM Base H22A 10.6:1 compression 197 HP and 161 FT-LBS (this is the motor I have)
JDM Type-S H22A 11.0:1 compression 217 HP and 163 FT-LBS

Now I'm no engineer, but it seems to me that somethings haywire here. How is it that the Type-S jumps by only 0.4:1 compression but gains 20 horse!? While the USDM and Base JDM are 0.6:1 compression away and gain 0 HP?

Does this seem strange to anyone else?? Do the head, exhaust, and intake flow THAT much better really?? Could part of this be attributed to a tuned down ECU from Honda on the JDM Base H22?

So I thought if I put a good intake (search maybe?), a Type-S manifold (if I can find one for a good price), Decent header (used RMF or other), "test pipe", and cat back exhaust, and a Hondata with tune I should see at least PART of the gains from the Type-S setup...does this logic hold water? Or am I just throwing my money away??

Thanks guys for the advise in advance, ya know it's always best to work off of the experience of people who've done it.

BTW what I drive:

1997 Prelude Base
JDM H22A with JDM Tranny (Non-LSD) 68,000 miles on both

EDIT: 200 WHP is not what I expect with the mods I have listed above, I realize that's not within the realm of reasonable expectation...200 WHP would be an ultimate goal...long term.

vainot4u · 01-24-2010, 08:07 PM

Wow 30 views and no one has an opinion, remark, or better yet an answer?

rhangman · 01-24-2010, 08:47 PM

Type S also has more aggressive cams.

Forget the Type S IM. Get a larger TB and fit to your current one port matched or go the Euro-R/ATR IM.

That's about it (I/H/E) without cracking it open. Next would be head work; new cams, valvetrain, port+polish. Then you basically have a P5P/PDE head. In fact to make the most of the new IM you would need at least the intake ports matched I would think. Bottom end you could fit P5P or PDE pistons, but you are only gaining 0.4 in your case, so it hardly seems worth it. Could try 11.5:1 Mahle Golds or go the whole hack and resleeve.

Also keep in mind that in Japan they may have higher octane fuel (no idea since you guys use a different scale).

vainot4u · 01-24-2010, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhangman

Type S also has more aggressive cams.

Forget the Type S IM. Get a larger TB and fit to your current one port matched or go the Euro-R/ATR IM.

That's about it (I/H/E) without cracking it open. Next would be head work; new cams, valvetrain, port+polish. Then you basically have a P5P/PDE head. In fact to make the most of the new IM you would need at least the intake ports matched I would think. Bottom end you could fit P5P or PDE pistons, but you are only gaining 0.4 in your case, so it hardly seems worth it. Could try 11.5:1 Mahle Golds or go the whole hack and resleeve.

Also keep in mind that in Japan they may have higher octane fuel (no idea since you guys use a different scale).

Thanks Rhangman, I forgot that the Type-S had more aggressive cams...but I still don't understand the lack of power development, but I suppose it could be all those things combined

I'd thought beyond the build I had up there would be something like Skunk2 cams and valve train (I've heard Crowers like to snap??)...port and polish is going to be tricky, as I don't know of too many reputable shops nearby to do the work and being my DD makes it difficult to ship the head out...lol...maybe if I found a decently priced JDM head as from what I've heard JDM motors are closed deck USDM are not...but this is all a long way off as I haven't even started on my previously mentioned mods...lol

BB6 Sleeper · 01-25-2010, 02:36 PM

IMO you dont need a port an polish to get 200whp. Im making 175whp right now with intake, cat-back, and 8lbflywheel. Not tuned. I've heard of h22's making an extra 10whp from a V-AFC tune with a great tuner. Which would set me 185whp. An the tri-y header makes some good numbers so im hoping to hit 190WHP. Im running a stock header atm. If I built the head its possible to get 200whp with a stock P&P an stock block. i hope that helps with your build. (Same for mine)

marcus81184 · 02-15-2010, 09:51 AM

My auto base dyno'd < 138 whp with basic bolt ons, after a tune it brought it up to 174 whp. I'd say a tune is prob best bang for buck even on a stock lude. They run extremely rich stock. There is also lots of free mods you can do, or fairly cheap ebay mods as well.

prepreludesh · 02-15-2010, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcus81184

My auto base dyno'd < 138 whp with basic bolt ons, after a tune it brought it up to 174 whp. I'd say a tune is prob best bang for buck even on a stock lude. They run extremely rich stock. There is also lots of free mods you can do, or fairly cheap ebay mods as well.

Prove that you had your automatic prelude tuned. Not saying it can't be done, but I have my reasons for asking.

To the OP, your best to get 200whp (because your H22a is almost there) is the best header money can buy, skunk2 intake manifold and a port matched throttle body. Intake is up to you. Top it all off with a good tune on a proven stand alone computer (Hondata) and you might get 215whp. Your H22A head is already mildly factory ported, so I wouldn't go wasting money on that just yet.

In my opinion though, if you add a bunch of parts on the car without tuning, you might hit the 200whp mark, but your powerband everywhere else is going to suffer, or it will shift. Yeah, you might have 200whp at 7200rpm, but what good does it matter when you've lost all the low-end torque your engine made?

marcus81184 · 02-16-2010, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prepreludesh

Prove that you had your automatic prelude tuned. Not saying it can't be done, but I have my reasons for asking.

Preludepower.com - View Single Post - Bolt on tune

^^ The last dyno graph is base with mods vs. tuned with mods.

Mike95lude · 02-22-2010, 08:23 PM

Biggest bang for the buck with the H22 is to free up the exhaust and get it tuned.

I would do, Hytech replica header, highflow cat or test pipe, 3" custom catback exhaust, then have it tuned on Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, or Crome. Call it a day there and you have a nice 20+ whp over stock.