D_Ludesions

I turned my Bearings 180 as well. Didn't want to mess with the oil pump

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"When you start down the slippery slope of actually adding HP to your engine, it is like trying crack for the first time. The added rush feels awesome, but soon enough you will get used to that dosage, and the amount must be upped. " - author unknown

Jeff Sloan

I *AM* talking about the oil pump housing itself.

The rear balancer shaft has a gear on the 'outside' of the oil pump housing. It's the reduction gear. One side (of the gear) is attached to the shaft itself, and the other side is attached to the balancer shaft belt gear. When you plug the balancer shaft passages, you no longer use the rear balancer shaft housing.

That gear is lubricated. It has a pressurized oil feed, and two oil return passages to get the oil back into the crank case. If you do not plug these holes, you will SPRAY OIL INTO YOUR TIMING COMPARTMENT.

This is IN ADDITION to turning the balancer shaft bearings.

I know, I have DONE THIS PERSONALLY.

But hey, you could just ignore me. Maybe I'm just insane ;-).

Jeff

P.S. - For $5 I'll take pictures of mine (Hey I'm lazy, motivate me). It's not closed up yet.

Jeff Sloan

Here,

The housing/cover in question is part of item #2. You can see 1/2 of the gear in item #2 as well. Also, Look at item #7. Why would there be a SEAL there if there is no oil in that cavity:




I actually almost missed this myself. It was actually Item # 6 that tipped me off. Why would there be a gasket/seal between the pump and the block of no oil was passing through. I starting investigating and discovered this issue . . .

D_Ludesions

Did you put the balancer shaft housing back on? If not I would understand how it woudl leak. but if the housing is put back on why would it leak?

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"When you start down the slippery slope of actually adding HP to your engine, it is like trying crack for the first time. The added rush feels awesome, but soon enough you will get used to that dosage, and the amount must be upped. " - author unknown

tenzola

hey jeff.. thanks for the heads up... once i remove my oil pump from the block.. i'll make sure to cross referance it with the pictures you sent and figure out how to plug those holes up

=)

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tenzola

jeff.. did you also use those two plugs that everybody is talking about.. or did you make your own ?

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marcucci

You can put that housing back on or plate it off. Or plug the holes.

tenzola, the crank bearings don't come as a set- If you have had the motor since new and know that the crank/block/bearings are original, you can replace the bearings with the original ones using the codes on the block (this is generally acceptable). If the crank or block are not original or have been machined, you will need to clearance the bearings and determine what exact size you need. You buy the bearings according to size, you cannot just buy a "set."

tenzola

yeah.. i figured that out the other day...

i have two choices though..

i can measure out everything on the crank itself and the main bore.. then figure out the bearing size

or i can buy a crank and bearing set where they machine the crank down to a certain size and they give the bearings for that.. i know they come in a set with this application cause we bought a whole bunch for the school engines...

i will cross referance the numbers though.. i just found out that they are on teh bottom of the block and not the top

guess i gotta do that with the con-rod bearings too

=P

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71dsp

Why not just buy one color of bearings and plastiguage each journal?

Honda does not sell a "bearing set" for the H22. You'd have to pick some bearings and buy them.

As for machining the crank, why the hell do that? Just size the bearings and be done with it!

tenzola

yeah.. i gotta measure everything and see if there's any out of round or anything like that

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tenzola

pics are goign to get posted soon... i got danny working on that...

so here's the senerio...

i got the oil pump off, measured teh rotors on the inside and everythign checks out fine...

i see the two shaft holes that the $45 plugs go into... and inside the smaller hole.. i see that there is a oil feed hole(does that need to be pluged.. or does that get plugged when i press in the $45 plug?)

now the outside of the smaller shaft hole.. there are two little holes.. what do i do with those.. or do i need to do anythign at all?

now marcucci says that i can use the housing that teh gear is attached to.. if i get a new seal and put the housing back on.. do i need to worry about the lil holles surrounding the smaller shaft hole?

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Jeff Sloan

I was thinking about this. If your going to put the rear balancer shaft cover back on, why bother installing the rear plug at all.

What purpose would it serve . . . the housing itself will prevent oil from getting 'out'.

Just doen't make sense to me.

tenzola

i beleive that there is still an oil feed hole where the shaft extends out... you can kind of see it in the third picture

the hole near the top

there's no bearing to pound out and rotate so i guess that's what the plug is for.. it's to keep that hole from dropping the oil pressure

i guess i answered my own question with the back cover thing.. i'll just get a new seal and put that cover back on..

=)

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gearbangers

kaizenspeed.com is were u can locate the kit for the counter balance shaft eliminator kit