On the subject of cams and internals, is it healthy to only run ONE camshaft, in other words, can someone just run the intake cam(obx, skunk w/e) and leave the exhaust stock?
On the subject of cams and internals, is it healthy to only run ONE camshaft, in other words, can someone just run the intake cam(obx, skunk w/e) and leave the exhaust stock?
Nope,
Some people run a skunk2 intake cam and a rocket exhaust cam. There are some other combos out there but you can't really buy a single cam like that anyways so you might as well get the set together.
I also made 190whp 153wtq with just I/H/E
SAE corrected was 182whp 148awtq
You have way more mods then me but making a little less and my motor also has about 140k miles on it.
So is there any chance of me using the same modification list, but instead utilizing the VAFCII or Greddy Emanage Ultimate (to preserve ATTS) and achieve similar performance?
I understand how the piggyback doesn't do "true" tuning but just adjusts current levels to quasi tune, but I just wanted to check.
Thanks guys that helps Im going to buy a set of crower stage 2's with springs and retainers and call it a day. I am currently about to run full exhaust, Header, DP, resonated test pipe, full catback, with Spectre cold air, NGK ignition and Stage 3 Fidanza clutch with 11 lb flywheel. Will i sound like absolute **** with the cat delete? or may it sound decent? the piping is 2.5 inch and the cat mid pipe is resonated along with the test pipe and N1 exhaust. Any ideas? SO: all of what I said, plus stage 2 head in a little.
Hytech Header
Random Technology or Vibrant SS Cat
Custom 2.5" cat back SS exhaust
Type S Air Intake (don't go for V2 or any other cone filter unless you have forced induction)
Euro R intake manifold (w/ port matched stock throttle body - only go for Skunk 2 pro manifold if your planning for a turbo or supercharger)
and most importantly...a Stage 1 clutch with 8lb flywheel
that should get you nearing or exceeding 200whp with just bolt on's.
You can further the gains by dropping a set of cams in with an upgraded valvetrain. My recommendation goes to Skunk2 Pro 1's with the Skunk2 valve springs and retainers and cam gears oh and make sure they are degree'd. A competent tuner should be able to do that for you.
If you have a H22A5 then you are limited to 10.0:1 compression if you plan on going NA. If you wanna stick down the NA route then your gonna have to bump up your compression. To get anything above Type S levels of compression (11.0:1) and if you don't want to sleeve your block then your options are limited to Mahle gold series pistons which should bump your compression upto 11.5:1 (perfect for the Skunk2 Pro1's )
Other than a good port and polish job and hours spent tuning that's about as far as your gonna get NA.
Hytech Header
Random Technology or Vibrant SS Cat
Custom 2.5" cat back SS exhaust
Type S Air Intake (don't go for V2 or any other cone filter unless you have forced induction)
Euro R intake manifold (w/ port matched stock throttle body - only go for Skunk 2 pro manifold if your planning for a turbo or supercharger)
and most importantly...a Stage 1 clutch with 8lb flywheel
that should get you nearing or exceeding 200whp with just bolt on's.
You can further the gains by dropping a set of cams in with an upgraded valvetrain. My recommendation goes to Skunk2 Pro 1's with the Skunk2 valve springs and retainers and cam gears oh and make sure they are degree'd. A competent tuner should be able to do that for you.
If you have a H22A5 then you are limited to 10.0:1 compression if you plan on going NA. If you wanna stick down the NA route then your gonna have to bump up your compression. To get anything above Type S levels of compression (11.0:1) and if you don't want to sleeve your block then your options are limited to Mahle gold series pistons which should bump your compression upto 11.5:1 (perfect for the Skunk2 Pro1's )
Other than a good port and polish job and hours spent tuning that's about as far as your gonna get NA.
Have fun.
what if you only make 155whp stock?
__________________
Blake - Neptune Tuner/Dealer
ALL MOTOR big body honda that will eat your lunch
Because the ecu doesn't know how to compensate for the added power.....don't mean to thread jack but the emanage is an option but what are the limitations after its installed? I've searched and no real answers had surfaced.
Nope,
Some people run a skunk2 intake cam and a rocket exhaust cam. There are some other combos out there but you can't really buy a single cam like that anyways so you might as well get the set together.
I also made 190whp 153wtq with just I/H/E
SAE corrected was 182whp 148awtq
You have way more mods then me but making a little less and my motor also has about 140k miles on it.
Those are excellent numbers for just I/H/E. It is a rare thing to see 180+ with those mods, I'd say your lude is an exception to the rule.
Can someone give an example of good numbers for a compression check? I know I want them to all be around the same, but what numbers are considered strong (high) or weak (low) for an H22? I suspect this will reveal a loss of compression due to poor seals between the rings and cylinders. I could try to replace the rings, but with the block being FRM, I doubt I could find a shop to hone the cylinders right for a proper seal, so there'd be no point. I know my mods on a fresh motor would do very well, but who has the money for a sleeved block?
__________________
~Matt http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2928232 Intake: AEM V2 TB: 68mm ProProducts IM: Euro R IM Insulator Gasket: Hondata Header: Hytech knock off with 2.5 collector, ceramic coated Cat: Vibrant 2.5" SS Exhaust: 2.5" SS w/ Magnaflow mufflers Tuning: NepTune RTP w/ Wideband Underdrive Pullies: AEM
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