I have been trying to get a definitive answer, and have searched everywhere. I have found not much useful info yet, so I hope someone can help me out on this.
I want to get 12:1 compression with the Type-S pistons, 20 thou milled head, Spoon thin gasket & high compression valves.
My only concern is whether there is enough clearance for my Jun valvetrain revving up to 8500.
I did a search and somebody from H-T.com have Crower rods, Type-S postons, .030" milled head and stage 3 crower cams, which gave him ~12:1 CR and not have any problem.
Here are the specs of the cams:
Crower stage 3 lift:IN .468'' EX .468''
Jun cam valve lift: IN .480'' EX .468''
Another guy from H-T milled the head 40 thou, with Type S cams and pistons and not have any problems as well.
So is my setup considered safe and reliable?
Thanks guys!
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Major mods: Power TWM ITB/AEM EMS/RC440/JUN valvetrain/SMSP headerback/P&P head/GE sleeved/JE pistons/Ferrea Comp Plus/Eagle rods Stiff stuff TEIN Flex/ST sways/Harness bar/Spoon F&R/ESP traction Drivetrain Quaife LSD/JUN FWheel/Exedy organic/Lean SS Stoppers Spoon 4pot/AEM rotors/AEM pads Cooling C&R radiator/Hondata gasket/Mugen thermopack Others Place Racing mounts/HKS ground/Greddy catch can
head milling + thin head gasket and I think you are getting into dangerous territory. Everyone says 'clay the motor', but if it turns out not to work, you are looking at additional expenses for new parts and labor. Do it right once, sleeve the block and get pistons for the compression you want.
Clay the motor cannot replicate the same situation at high revs.
Here's the reply from Corey regarding his setup:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda318dx
I have Jun cams, type S pistons, 1 layer headgasket, block decked (slightly, can still make out the cylinder code letters) and head milled (twice, just enough to make it flat) No clearance issues.. I'll do a compression test to see what I'm running..
If this setup works for him, then mine shouldn't be a problem.
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Major mods: Power TWM ITB/AEM EMS/RC440/JUN valvetrain/SMSP headerback/P&P head/GE sleeved/JE pistons/Ferrea Comp Plus/Eagle rods Stiff stuff TEIN Flex/ST sways/Harness bar/Spoon F&R/ESP traction Drivetrain Quaife LSD/JUN FWheel/Exedy organic/Lean SS Stoppers Spoon 4pot/AEM rotors/AEM pads Cooling C&R radiator/Hondata gasket/Mugen thermopack Others Place Racing mounts/HKS ground/Greddy catch can
You would have to be stupid to run a setup so close to the ragged edge and not do a clay test.
A clay test is NOT meant to simulate what happens at high revs. It's to give you an accurate idea of what kind of clearances you have in a STATIC state. From this you can estimate whether or not there is enough clearance to allow for metal expansion, rod stretch, etc.
Everyone says 'clay the motor', but if it turns out not to work, you are looking at additional expenses for new parts and labor. Do it right once, sleeve the block and get pistons for the compression you want.
Shark, you're smarter than that. You clay the damn motor before anything is modified. If you want to do it right, you mock it up with pistons, rods, and all before you do any milling.
Shark, you're smarter than that. You clay the damn motor before anything is modified. If you want to do it right, you mock it up with pistons, rods, and all before you do any milling.
Sorry guys, I wasn't implying not to clay the motor, just saying it might be better to get the compression you want with appropriate pistons. I'm not sure I would want to run 12:1 on OEM pistons, anyway.
Last edited by sharkcohen; 09-22-2005 at 11:31 AM.
(I have no idea how old this post is, so if this is old news... whatever)
Im not a fan of the spoon gasket, by going that route your going to drop your piston to head clearance below .030 which isnt a very good idea. I would recomend welding the chambers to minumize combustion chamber volume to get you close to if not over 12.0:1.
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