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Old 11-05-2001, 06:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Intake manifold "phenolic" spacer/insulator

Thought you guys might enjoy this. It's not from a Prelude, though Hondata does make one for the 'lude:

http://www.s2000.org/mods/insulator/

I was utterly shocked to see an average 10-25 degree drop in intake air temps, as well as a 5 degree differential between head/manifold exterior temp go to 50 degrees!!!

I should be getting an H22 spacer soon, and will do a writeup for NTPOG. The S2000 data won't translate exactly, but the Prelude should see a temperature decrease in the same ballpark. For the money, it's the best power mod I've done so far.
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Old 11-05-2001, 07:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Interesting, i always wondered if and how well these things worked. i may have to invenst in one of these.
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Old 11-05-2001, 07:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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How much is it??? Never heard of that mod....interesting!!!!
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Old 11-05-2001, 07:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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http://www.hondata.com
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Old 11-05-2001, 07:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Kinda like that ventulli plate thing Spoon has for ITR's and civics. It also is supposed to reduce intake temps. I would also like to get more info on that spacer, good mod.
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I got the Hondata one- just never installed it yet. Wish I could do my own car work for a change- would be a lot cheaper
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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For the Prelude doesn't the Hondadata spacer block the EGR? According to the Helms this would throw a MIL because of insufficient flow in the EGR. Has anyone removed the EGR successfully before?
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Last edited by DR; 11-05-2001 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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hmmm very very detailed. looks interesting to do. wonder how much
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Todd, can you comment why your electronic setup would be more accurate/precise than using the factory IAT sensor?

But obviously, you simply cannot beat the price/HP gain on this product.

It's the labor that'll kill ya!!

Btw, schwett's got one lying around, waiting to be installed (one of these days) on his JRSC Prelude.
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:29 PM   #10 (permalink)
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He has a Fluke dual input pyrometer. Much more accurate than the stock IAT, as I doubt the factory IAT is calibrated.

By the way, I plan on installing one on my H22 (with the EGR passage).
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 71dsp
He has a Fluke dual input pyrometer. Much more accurate than the stock IAT, as I doubt the factory IAT is calibrated.

By the way, I plan on installing one on my H22 (with the EGR passage).
So you are going to allow the EGR to function? Wont that make this mod pretty ineffective?
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I don't think it will hurt anything. I will have to see how it works with the EGR blocked.
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 71dsp
as I doubt the factory IAT is calibrated.


What do you mean by the sensor not being "calibrated?"
I know of a chart in the Helm's manual showing a defined variation in IAT sensor resistance as a function of a change in specific air temperatures. If that doesn't show a calibration, then I must be confusing your definition of "calibration."
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:58 PM   #14 (permalink)
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its soo easy to work with the s2k...with the engine in that postion
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Old 11-05-2001, 08:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by prelude2005
its soo easy to work with the s2k...with the engine in that postion
Try working with a supercharger in the way.....

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Old 11-05-2001, 10:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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im running the hondata phenolic spacer now. have been for 3 or so months.

the egr passage IS blocked on mine. egr is still hooked up and i haven't had any problems with cold starts, idle, etc. i haven't had any real good runs with it since i had tranny work to do and now she's getting her body done.

i was however able to better my embarrassing best of 15.2 to 15.1. i shall let you guys know as soon as im able to get some more runs in(next year). but i've added the flywheel since will be almost impossible to view what the spacer has given me.

i admit i was a little conserned about the blocked egr. i had considered opening the passage. i can still do so, but i dont see the need right now. i'll also try to smog test my car, just cause im curious. PA regulated test results last time weren't too nice. but now that my paint will be done and the new front end i dont think i can get onto our above ground dyno
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Old 11-05-2001, 10:36 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I also have one installed on my car. I don't have the EGR hooked up anymore due to running a P28 ECU, but I can vouch for the intake temps going down a good amount. My Hondata indicates that it went down a lot. I also do not have any coolant lines running to the intake manifold, so that helps even more. My IAC valve is external now, and I took off the coolant lines off my ITR TB, so my set-up is running very cold.
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Old 11-05-2001, 11:10 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by sun
I also have one installed on my car. I don't have the EGR hooked up anymore due to running a P28 ECU, but I can vouch for the intake temps going down a good amount. My Hondata indicates that it went down a lot. I also do not have any coolant lines running to the intake manifold, so that helps even more. My IAC valve is external now, and I took off the coolant lines off my ITR TB, so my set-up is running very cold.
is the iac aftermarket, or factory that you have just relocated? pictures? was this all possible because of your ecm setup, or can this be successfully done running a factory p13?

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Old 11-05-2001, 11:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The IAC is a factory unit. I had to relocate it due to my Euro R intake manifold. See webpage in signature and go to the intake manifold "how to" page.

You could probably do it with a stock P13 ECU, but I have never tried it.
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Old 11-05-2001, 11:43 PM   #20 (permalink)
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FYI: In order to install this spacer correctly, you need to remove all of the gasket material from the old intake manifold gasket. It does not come off easily like the S2000. It's a paper gasket that sticks to the head. It is a major pain in the butt to completely get it off. It's easiest to take out all of the studs off the head, and to use a gasket remover (liquid stuff).
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