How to install an aftermarket Intake Manifold Insulator Gasket (like Hondata) - Honda Prelude Forum

Keith · 09-07-2003, 09:21 AM

Ugh... Yesterday was a long install day. I tackled the famous aftermarket insulator gasket for the intake manifold (like Hondata's but I have a supplier would makes it out of better, thicker material for H22s and H23s). Anyhow. I started at 8am that morning and finished at just before 5pm (I took my time and had some lunch). The bottleneck was removing the old gasket and removing a couple of bolts on the lower IM. I had some help from some friends which sped up some time (thanks Rich, Jason and Chris aka Suede54). Anyhow here are the facts...

You need...

14 mm socket
12 mm socket
10 mm socket
8 mm socket
12 mm open and closed wrench (forget about gear wrenches. The lip is way too big to fit anywhere)
10 mm closed wrench (same thing, no gear wrenches)
Multiple length extentions for sockets
Flex extension
needle nose pliers
Regular pliers
Torque wrench
wire cutters
Flat head screwdriver
Intake manifold gaskets x 2 (17121-PT2-004)
Throttle body gasket (16176-P30-004)
1 galon or more of coolant.
1 galon or more of oil (optional)
Gloves (it will save your hands)
Jack stands x 2
Jack
Gasket remover (1 bottle should do)
Razor blade (preferably with a handle)
Percison knife
Throttle body/Carborator cleaner spray (if your TB and IM was filthy like mine)
Magnet (when you drop bolts... which you will)
Small multiple angle mirror
A buddy is a plus (mechanically inclined helps)

Without going into huge detail here are the steps...

- Remove intake

- Remove TPS and Map sensor from Throttle body.
- Remove 2 coolant lines under the TB and the EVAP line on top (COOLANT WILL SPILL!)
- Remove ALL hoses and wires connecting to the IM and ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL (COOLANT WILL SPILL!).

- Remove throttle cable (12 mm bolt)

- Remove upper intake manifold chamber (which means all 5 x 12mm bolts).

- Remove hose connected to the diaphragm (round thing)
- Remove secondary butterfly valve.

- Remove the fuel line (fasten by 3 x 10 mm bolts) - FUEL WILL SPILL!

- Remove fuel pressure regulator (2 x 10 mm bolts)

- Remove EGR valve (2 x 8mm bolts)

Keith · 09-07-2003, 09:22 AM

- Remove the ignition coil (2 x 10 mm bolts on top + 1 x 12 mm bolt on side)
- Remove the 5 x 12 mm bolts on the top of the lower intake manifold.
- From the top of the car, you will be able to remove the 3 x 12 mm bolts on BOTTOM of the IM. You should be able to access the far left side (driver's side) and the 2 bolts on the far right (passenger side).
- Raise car and place securely on jack stands (high enough to allow you to work underneath).
- If you want more wrench room, I would recommend removing the oil filter (for you base Ludes) and unclipping the black wire harness.

- Remove the 2 x 12mm bolts on the bottom of the IM (these are pretty hard to reach).
- Remove the 12mm bolt securing the IM on the black bracket.

- Lower car back down.
- Unclip all hoses and wires connecting to the lower IM.
- Remove the lower IM.

- Fill in the 4 intake ports with newspaper so that no gasket or gasket remove is able to get in.

- Now is a good time to clean out the EGR, intake ports, upper IM chamber and TB. Scrap off any gasket on the lower IM as well. If you gaskets or no good on the upper IM and butterflys, then scrap off the old gasket with gasket remover and a blade. Replace with new gaskets. Same goes for the TB.

Keith · 09-07-2003, 09:23 AM

- Spray the IM gasket with gasket remover heavily.
- Let sit for 5-10 mins.
- Using razor blade and precision knife, process to remove ALL the IM gasket.
- Repeat these steps TILL ALL THE OLD GASKET IS GONE (this could takes many times)
(Tip: use a mirror to check hard to see spots like under the studs. Use a rag to clean up all excess gasket remover)

- Once head is clean, install new gasket and excute all the steps above in reverse order.

NOTE: The 12mm bolt that secures the lower IM bracket might not line up properly since the new IM gasket is substantially thicker. You have to get the bolt in from an angle (I'm sure I cross threaded mine but it's locked in).

Have fun. PM or email me if you have questions.

Rest of the install day pics are here...

http://www.chillybanana.com/Prelude/install_day_sept

dublued · 09-07-2003, 11:17 AM

is that an aftermarket throttle body gasket or oem?

if its aftermarket, what are the positive effects of it.

thanx

Keith · 09-07-2003, 11:39 AM

OEM TB gasket.

S2K TB + P + P.

Suede54 · 09-08-2003, 08:08 AM

Long day, Keith. Good work though - it was a character builder getting the old gasket off! The next one should only take us 4 hours now that it's been done already. Of course, the unknown factor is the ATTS on an SH....

Keith · 09-08-2003, 08:48 AM

I doubt it would 4 hours. 2.5 hours when to just removing the complete IM. But it was quicker (I think) reinstalling it...

Jacques · 09-08-2003, 08:52 AM

Good writeup, Keith.

By the time I showed up, looked like you had enough people helping you out. As Chris said, the process next time should be a little shorter.

Vapor · 09-10-2003, 12:45 PM

Was this added to the FAQ? Simply for the pictures and checklist style steps.

Was it dificult to do, or simply time consuming?

DudewithaLude · 09-10-2003, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Suede54
Long day, Keith. Good work though - it was a character builder getting the old gasket off! The next one should only take us 4 hours now that it's been done already. Of course, the unknown factor is the ATTS on an SH....

Trust me, doing it on a SH will take 4 hours or more.

see this picture? doesn't look too bad eh?

this is what it looked like to me when i was working on it.

and thats merely the beginning!

I gave up, and assumed it was close to impossible without taking off the ATTS, and apparently D-Town SH agrees

rufridn · 09-10-2003, 01:24 PM

looks difficult. what are the effects of doing this? did u guys install a FMIC on the wrX also?

yohan420 · 09-10-2003, 01:49 PM

faq this bish!