Joon525

So this is what it looks like after a 40 mile commute home that took about 45 minutes in ~77F degree weather.



There's not much more to say as I already got my answer from my other thread but I thought I'd throw this up for anyone to comment on and it'll give you other guys something to compare your fluid to. (This is pretty DAMN full in regards to where the max line is.)

 

johnsoncranium

haha..looks like a mixture of sh#t and piss!

joon, it's obvious you need to bleed and flush your stuff...that's filthy..even dirtier than mine b4 i flushed.

did you have someone fill it up for you? maybe the last person who did it filled it too much. my fluid level pretty much stays put after driving about an hour in high heat.



------------------
kimchi cures cancer

Joon525

Is that really considered dirty? I don't know what clean fluid looks like so I have nothing to compare it to. I don't think anyone put more in there to the best of my knowledge no one's ever touched it.

johnsoncranium

well, standard brake fluid is clear with slight orange/yellowish tint. no brownish or black whatsoever.

I used valvoline synthetic fluid, which is crystal clear.

when you bleed/flush, you will see even darker stuff coming out, as the reservoir usually has all the cleanest portion/parts of the fluids in the system.

you will basically see solid brown stuff bleeding for at least 4-5oz.

flush soon man, and do your clutch system(esp, the master cylinder) a favor.


------------------
kimchi cures cancer

Tola

And once you've flushed out all of the brown/black stuff, make sure you don't fill it to where it is in the picture. Fill it to the "max" line on the cylinder.

Joon525

Yeah I know.....I honestly do NOT know why it is filled that much to begin with. I have to read the Helm tonight to learn how to bleed this thing. If anyone's got any tips or can give me a run down on how to do it it would be much appreciated.

Oh and Tola I emailed you about the tools for the valve adjustment.

Tola

Well, I think the manual said for you to just loosen the screw and keep pushing and pulling the clutch pedal. For some reason, this didn't work to well for me. So each time I loosen the screw, I have my little bro push the clutch down, then I tighten it once it's all the way down and have him pull it back up. This works the best for me. Keep topping off the master cylinder. You'd probably have to repeat it like 15-20 times to get everything out.

Also, thanks for the e-mail, but as I've stated in the previous post, I found the answer already

Joon525

Thanks man....I'm going to go read the Helm now.

ImagePree

does anyone know how much fluid is in the clutch system?

johnsoncranium

go get(if you already haven't)
1.a clear bottle, a good sized water bottle will do
2.a 1/4"(8mm or slightly smaller) clear tubing from a hardware store(about 2ft).
3.a 8mm open end wrench
4.some good brake fluid.
5.someone to help you press the clutch.

The trick to bleeding the clutch fluid w/o having to close and open the bleed valve multiple times is to have the open end of the bleed tube drain at a higher level than where the bleed valve is.

as long as the open end is sitting somewhere higher, you can pull and depress the clutch pedal while pumping out a good amount each time.

make sure you don't let the reservoir go too low, as air will get in the system this way. constantly fill the reservoir and you'll be fine.

keep pumping away and refilling until you see clean fluid coming out of the bleeder valve.

close valve, depress clutch and open valve and close right away after you see no bubbles coming out of the system(there shouldn't be if you kept the open end higher).

------------------
kimchi cures cancer