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Old 07-31-2003, 02:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Writeup: S2000 Start Button!!

Its finally here, the s2000 start button writeup. The way I'm going to

show installed is the proper way to install the start button, most

people just tap the Battery and Starter together to jump start the car,

but there's more to it than that. Below is a diagram of what happens

when you turn the ignition key:



You can see when you start the car, we have 3 connections made. Bat,

IG1, and ST(starter) connect together. And the other two connections,

ACC & IG2 are disconnected from the circuit. This means that when we

push the button to start the car we are going to be switching 3

circuits. One to connect BAT to ST. One to create an open circuit for

ACC. And a last one to create an open circuit for IG2. You can also use

one more relay if you want to start the car without pushing the

clutch.

So far we have 4 relays we need. Instead of going out and buying 4

relays I did some research and found 1 relay which is a 3PDT(which

switches 3 circuits, we'll use this for the Clutch, IG2, and ACC). And

we'll use another high current relay just for the BAT and ST

connection.

Here's the connectors for the wires wer're going to be using.


And the schematic of the overall circuit:


For this project you'll need the following:
10 Gauge & 18 cable
1 3PDT relay (NTE #R10-14D10-12, you can order from

http://www.mouser.com or http://www.action-electronics.com Action

Electronic is located in Santa Ana, so cal people can go and pick it

up)
1 30A SPST Relay(Radio shack)
S2000 Start button
Crimper
Dremel to enlarge opening for button
Wire taps

With that out of the way, lets start the project. Give you self plenty

of time, and do it in daylight(in case something goes wrong)

The parts...




Remove the ground terminal from the battery.

Remove the radio trim. Use a screwdriver or just pull with your hands

if you're strong enough. Here's a view from the back so you know where

the clips are located.


Remove radio by removing 4 screws(2 located on each side)


Pull radio out, and unplug harness and antenna


Take a look at the power socket. There are two wires, simple pull them

out.


Next pull the white piece out in the direction shown:


Unscrew the brass casing in the direction shown:


The power socket will now fall right out, along with the front cover:


The cavity left over:
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Last edited by 99_SH; 07-31-2003 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 07-31-2003, 02:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Next we're going to remove the upper and lower steering column covers.

Looking from under the steering column, there are 6 screws that need to

be removed.


The locations of screws:


After screws have been removed, the covers will slide right off:


Undo blue connector shown:


Undo small green connector in the back:


Undo white connector under dashboard:


Stick your head way under the dashboard, and look up. Undo the brown

connector. Also undo the clip pointed in the picture. Follow the wire

which the clip was attached to and undo the connector on the end(this connector connects to the fusepanel)

Here's a picture of the connector you need to take out from the fusepanel.

If you wish undo the lower dash board cover to get more space if you

wish. Its only one screw so why not. You already have the entire car

apart anyway... Unscrew the screw, and pull the cover straight down,

its held in by clips.
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Last edited by 99_SH; 08-01-2003 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 07-31-2003, 02:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You should now have the entire harness lying outside. We'll be working

on this harness from now on...


Find this connector on the harness:


You're gonna have to cut the plastic cover off the wires. Cut the

yellow, and White/Black wire and crimp male/female connectors on them

as shown. Notice how I put both male and female connectors on each

wire. Just in case something goes wrong I can connect the two wires

back up and have it like stock.


Now from those wires connect it to the relay as shown in the schematic

above. Notice the schmatic has two identical labels, it doesn't matter

if the wires are switched around.


Next find the 3P connector, and use wire taps to tap into the signal.

From there connect it to the relay as shown. You're going to use the

big 30A SPST relay for this one.


Relays installed:




Use electrical tape and cover up all the cuts you made. Make it look

stock.



Go back to your car and hook up all the connectors. Install is the

reverse of removal.
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Old 07-31-2003, 02:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you want to implement the clutch relay,so that you wont have to push

the clutch to start the car. Go under the dash again and find the

connector shown below:


Its a short wire, so I suggest you unplug it first. Cut the plastic

covering off it again,and use wiretaps to tap into the two wires. Space

is very cramped here, and you'll find yourself cussing at these damn

short wires. After you tap those two wires, connect them to the big

3PDT relay as shown in the schematic.


After you did all your wiring, its time to tuck things under. Use

wire-ties, electrical tape anything and shove the excess wires under

the dash. Here's a good spot to hide the relays:


Now on to installing the start button.
Take out that plastic cover you took from the interior and shave it

down until it fits the start button snug. This will take some time, but

be patient.




Next,go in the car and shave down the empty cavity as well. I found

using an old soldering gun really helps. It melts the plastic quick and

fast. IT only took me a few second.


To hook up wires to the start button, get a computer's floppy drive

connector. You can pick one up for about 2 bux if you dont have one. It

plugs right into the back of the button.



Hook up the button as shown in the schematic. The pins are labeled

below:


After everything is hooked up, put it back together and start the car.

hopefully everything will go well. There's a lot of room of error so be

careful as you go along.




I know some picture are hard to see. The text is kinda blury. Just goto

my imagestation album and view the fullsize pics there.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289528137
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Old 07-31-2003, 02:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Excellent write-up...good job!! =)
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Old 07-31-2003, 02:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Great writeup! Very detailed

For those of you that need this part:


They are very cheap at this site ($0.99). It will be considerably more expensive at CompUSA or a store like that.
http://www.svcompucycle.com/sexflcoto4pi.html
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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99_SH,

Amazing writeup my friend. Awesome that you did such a quality job, the right way. I'll be saving this and printing it out for when I do my install.

BTW, could you take some more wide angle pics of the entire dash with the button in view? It would also be great if you took some at night as well, so we can see how the button looks in that location while illuminated.

Thanks so much,
Dev
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Last edited by devtec; 07-31-2003 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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WOW...that great!!!
THANKS!!!

Looks like you were able to fix the problem you had before huh?

I'm doing mine on Friday.
I'll take some pictures as well.

thanks again for taking the time to take pictures and write up the "How To".
This is definately a FAQ material!!
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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wow, very very very nice. excellant write-up. i will be doing this sometime in the future. thanks for makeing it easy.
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'll take some night shots when it gets dark tonight and post them up tonight. Also some wide angle shots in just a second.

Note: I uploaded the wrong schematic. I fixed it now, so for those who printed or saved stuff, update the schematic file.
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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very good information

love the fact that you explained this

good job man
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Here are some wide pictures. It was very sunny outside and the camera didnt like it. I'll try to get better ones eventually...


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Old 07-31-2003, 03:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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very nice writeup

it still looks hard to me(im a complete moron when it comes to wiring and such)

FAQ this!!!!
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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good stuff

after reading your whole instructions, I have a much better feeling that everything will go smoothly this weekend for my install.

however, why did you disengauge the clutch?
so, if you have the car in 1st gear and you hit the button, the car will launch forward right?

I think I'm going to skip that step since I don't want someone to borrow my car and slam the front of my car into something. Plus, I might forget too. hehe!

Any suggestions to those who are going keep the Clutch Safety Option?!?!



Secondly, what happens if you push the button while the car is already running.
Nothing happens right? I would hate to have your starter try to start the engine when it already running.

nice job.
I can't wait to work on mine.

Please post some night shots
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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damn dood, i think this is gonna be my next mod....AWESOME write-up
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:56 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If the car is in gear and you push the button, then ya its gonna launch forward. I accidentally did this once already. So becareful

The start button acts the same way as turning the ignition key. So if the car is already on, and you push the start button, the starter is gonna turn and you'll hear that screeching sound which i'm sure you've heard before.

If you dont want to mess with the clutch switch, simply dont hook it up to the relay and dont tap into the clutch wires. In this case you could use a SPDT relay instead of the special 3PDT. But make sure the relay is rated at 10Amps and has a 12VDC coil.

I'll have night pics when it becomes dark outside. I Dont know how good its gonna come out cause i'm not gonna use a flash, but we'll see... I can take nightvision shots if you want, but everything will be green

On a side note; for the really lazy and those afraid to mess with wiring. You could really do this with one SPST 30A relay. Just hook up the Bat and ST signal to the relay and it'll work; thats how everyone else i've seen do it before. And you dont even need to take apart the harness, you can simply tap into the wires. Your choice...
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Old 07-31-2003, 04:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Amazing write up!!! And it looks damn cool too

....so, for those of us in so cal that are completely electronically inept, will you help?
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Old 07-31-2003, 05:21 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by 99_SH
In this case you could use a SPDT relay instead of the special 3PDT. But make sure the relay is rated at 10Amps and has a 12VDC coil.
That's great!!
I'm going to go that route since it's safer.

And yes, I have heard that screeching sound before.
I did it in my Accord accidentally.

I like how you took the harness out of the car. It's a little more work, but it looks a whole lot better.

Gosh, now you got me excited and I want to get my S2K button in. I'll post some pictures as well.




For night shots, just turn off the flash and have the shutter opened longer.
Make sure you hold the camera steady because if you move, then it will come out blurry.
Sometimes if you park under a street light, it gives a "moon light" effect and gives a little more detail in the picture.
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Old 07-31-2003, 05:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Is the SDPT Relay the same as the 3PD that you used, except it has less prongs?

As the S2K installation effected your stock immoblizer at all?
I doubt it does, but I though I asked anyways.
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Old 07-31-2003, 05:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
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thats a great write up... loooks like a lot of time *PITA* cough
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