Write-Up - Header Install Guide with Pics - Honda Prelude Forum

GroverzVTEC · 10-19-2002, 08:25 PM

Hey guys!

I know this has been beaten TO DEATH. However, a pretty thorough search has refused to yield a comprehensive installation guide for DC Sports Ceramic 2-piece Headers.

I saw the FAQ on it, but being over a year old there are no pictures. Also, in the end I may not get the parts new (no instructions/bolts/gaskets) and would like to do my research well before I decide to buy them.

I am not very mechanically inclined, but would like to get a little more intimate with my Lude and do the installation myself (with a buddy who loves projects like this to lend me a hand.) In the end, I may just fork over the $75 or so it will cost for a decent installation...however my 97 came with the MOD's already done (CAI, some suspension stuff, Evo)...and I want to join the DIY crowd to complete the I/H/E equation.

Therefore, I am trying to find a PDF or something that has great pictures like the NTPOG CAI Install guide does. I would rather send the $75 an install would cost on tools like a breaker bar, rubber mallet, can of WD40, etc.

I realize the potential downsides of a 97 Lude....those nuts may break off, may be unable to get it to seat properly, etc. However, I can never get going on my DIY projects if I don't lose my virginity here somewhere. The only other engine mod I plan is pullies, which I will definitley NOT be doing myself.

Any suggestions please. Flame me if you will, but I have read nearly all the Header DIY install threads and I know of all the problems...but everyone seemed to know exactly what to do ahead of time (ie describing the little hanger that sometimes rubs, how to safely remove the O2 sensor, etc)

Thanks guys. Lock this if you feel it has been beaten to death, but I have to ask becuase I am finding very few comprehensive threads on the install.

Grover

PS: I found a Neuspeed N2 header set for approx $175. From what I have read they are nearly identical to the DC Sports and the pics look new (Ebay). However, no one seems to have really compared the two and everything I find on a search seems to be people guessing. I was not planning headers for another month or so, would it be smart to jump on a deal? I am tempted to say forget it and buy them new from a reputable parts dealer (see DC Sports headers for about $300.)

Thanks again

sharkcohen · 10-19-2002, 10:55 PM

Installing a new header into the 5th gen lude is not that difficult. In fact, if you can do this installation, you can definitely install the pulleys yourself. The pulleys are an easier install. If you do get the DC Sports header, I suggest cutting off the engine bracket. This is a bracket on the B-pipe (secondary pipe, downpipe) that is secured onto two studs on the back of the engine. Cut it off now because it will most likely break later.

Start your installation by soaking the mounting hardware with thread loosener or WD40. Apply the thread loosener to the 3 nuts/studs at the flange between the A-pipe and the B-pipe, the 2 nuts/studs that hold the A-pipe to the front of the engine, and the 3 nuts/studs between the B-pipe and the catalytic converter. Soak them several times, waiting about 10-20 minutes between application to let it seep into the threads really well. While you are letting them soak, you can get to work on removing the heat shield from the stock A-pipe (primaries).

Pic of stock A-pipe after heat shield removal with heat shield mounting points circled (lower one is behind the hose, of course):

Jack the car up and support it on jackstands. SUPPORT IT ON JACKSTANDS, I am not responsible for any cars falling on anyone. Unplug the oxygen sensor from its connector. This connector is not located on the O2 sensor itself. Follow the wires from the O2 sensor and up to its connector and unplug it there, then unclip the now free wires from their support bracket.

Your nuts/studs should be nice and lubricated now. Using the appropriate size socket and a long breaker bar, remove the 3 nuts at the cat. Remove the 2 nuts that secure the engine bracket of the B-pipe to the back of the engine. Remove the 3 nuts that secure the B-pipe to the A-pipe. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the A-pipe to the engine. Remove the B-pipe from the car.

Pic of the B-pipe removed from the cat. Note the 3 studs that secured the B-pipe to the cat:

Pic of the B-pipe removed from the A-pipe, looking up from below the A-pipe (red indicates studs that secured A-pipe to B-pipe, green indicates studs that secured A-pipe to front of engine):

GroverzVTEC · 10-19-2002, 11:51 PM

Those are sweet pics sharkcohen, just what I really needed. this install is about 30 days or so away for me, but I am trying to do my homework ahead of time so there are no surprises.

Thanks, this is the kind of info I am looking for

Grover

pinkdotts · 10-20-2002, 12:05 AM

Its all about the Liquid Wrench!! wd40 just greases stuff up. if you have that much time ..just get a can of Liquid Wrench. Go ahead and take off your heat shield in your engine bay. and spray them nuts. the older your car the tighter they are gonna be on. just spray the nuts there are 9 of them on the head. also you can start to spray that area where the 5 nuts are you can start to lube up that area too. And do the same where it meets the cat. makes things soo much easier. I did my car with wd-40 and a friends car with liquid wrench. Sharkcohen pretty much gave a good walk thru..its pretty easy process just time consuming if you cant break the torque on the nuts a breaker bar and a wrench is all u really need

here are some misc pics when i returned my car to stock and installed mugen parts on another http://www.desispeed.com/mugen.htm

sharkcohen · 10-20-2002, 12:17 AM

Remove the 9 lock nuts that secure the A-pipe to the head. Remove the A-pipe from the engine bay. You may also want to remove the heat shield that protects the alternator at this time. It will give clearance later for reaching the lower right lock nut when installing the new A-pipe. This small heat shield can be installed after the new A-pipe is secure. The fit is tight, but it can be done.

Pic of 9 lock nuts. Also highlighted is the alternator heat shield and the upper bolt that secures it to the engine. The other bolt is on the lower most portion of the heat shield at the bottom of the front of the engine:

On a work bench, remove the O2 sensor from the stock B-pipe. These can be a PITA to remove. Hold the B-pipe down good (or have someone hold it down for you), and use a long wrench for good leverage. It will come off. Apply antisieze to the threads of the O2 sensor, but do not get any onto the sensor itself, only the threads. Install the sensor into the new B-pipe and tighten it down well.

A new DC header will most likely not come with a new gasket for between the A-pipe and the head. The stock gasket is metal and should be reusable. If it looks damaged, replace it, you can get a new one from Honda. Make sure the stock gasket is clean, put it in place on the studs on the head, and then slide the new A-pipe onto the studs. Tighten them down in an alternating pattern, starting from the center so that the pressure is spread evenly across the flange. Tighten the nuts down to 23 ft lbs.

Pic of the tightening pattern:

sharkcohen · 10-20-2002, 12:56 AM

You are now ready to install your new B-pipe. Place your 2 new A-pipe/B-pipe gaskets into the top of the B-pipe flange. There will be 2 grooves in the flange for these gaskets. If you have cut off the engine bracket as I suggested, this should be cake. If you have decided to use the engine bracket, you may find that the bracket will need to be bent a bit for it to mount up onto the two studs on the back of the engine while still being able to mate up the flanges between the B-pipe and the A-pipe. I had to bend the bracket back a bit (back from the B-pipe flange) in order to be able to have the B-pipe flange make it past the oil pan with the engine bracket secured to the back of the engine. I have heard others have used a rubber mallet to pound things into place. In any case, you can imagine what kind of stress is placed upon the engine bracket during the installation. Throw in a bit of engine movement, and BAM you have a broken engine bracket just as many others have with their DC Sports header. I seriously suggest just cutting it off now. It makes the installation easier and it is going to break anyway.

Pic of the upper flange on the B-pipe that mates with the lower flange on the A-pipe. Note the grooves for the gaskets.

Pic of the engine bracket. If you choose to keep it on, hopefully you will not have to bend it like I did.

When getting the bracket onto its studs and mating up the B-pipe upper flange to the A-pipe lower flange, keep in mind that you also need to get the B-pipe/cat flange over the studs in the cat. Insert the new gasket for between the B-pipe and the cat, and then slide the flange onto the studs. This may require flexing the flex pipe on the B-pipe as well as shifting around the cat in its rubber hangers. Also, the gasket can easily shift out of place. This all can be a PITA. I suggest using something sticky like white Elmer's glue (not a lot, just a couple of dots) to hold the cat gasket in place.

Assuming you have left the bracket on and have gotten it over its 2 studs on the back of the engine and the B-pipe/cat flange over the studs in the cat, now make sure the the B-pipe and A-pipe flanges line up correctly. Unlike the stock header which used studs and nuts to secure this point, the holes in the A-pipe flange are threaded. You will use the 3 new bolts that come with the header, pass them through the B-pipe flange, and screw them into the A-pipe flange.

This is where I ran into some trouble. The B-pipe flange was not quite forward enough relative to the A-pipe to allow them to mate up properly. The holes were not even aligned to allow the bolts to thread properly. I ended up loosening the head flange nuts up to allow the A-pipe to move a bit up top so that the lower flange would mate up properly with the B-pipe flange. Then I screwed in the bolts, tightened them, and then retightened the head flange bolts SLOWLY, going over the tightening pattern several times before completely tightening them down so that the flange would not crack.

Tighten the three bolts for the A-pipe/B-pipe flanges, starting with the center one first. You can then tighten down the cat nuts, and if you are using the engine bracket, install and tighten its 2 nuts. If you removed the alternator heat shield, you can now reinstall it.

Plug in the O2 sensor connector.

Recheck all your work.

Clean any dirt or grease off of the header with soap and water before starting the car for the first time. Any contamination on the header will stain it when it heats up. Let it dry before starting the car.

Lower the car and fire it up. Let the engine warm up and then listen for exhaust leaks. You should also recheck all the nuts and bolts after about 500 miles to make sure they are still tight.

DudewithaLude · 10-20-2002, 01:50 AM

thanks for the writeup, sharkcohen
this thread needs to be put in the faq!

sharkcohen · 10-20-2002, 01:50 AM

Need to see the pics enlarged? http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291228779

GroverzVTEC · 10-20-2002, 02:23 AM

I second the "Lets FAQ This"....

the older FAQ is nice but there are no pics, sharkcohen did a nice job

Grover

elppa · 01-13-2003, 10:51 PM

I'm curious, why hasn't anyone FAQ'ed this thread yet.
I came across it by accident, but this looks like a very nice thread to add to our FAQ collection.

Hawks10 · 01-13-2003, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by elppa
I'm curious, why hasn't anyone FAQ'ed this thread yet.
I came across it by accident, but this looks like a very nice thread to add to our FAQ collection.

I agree cause I am gonna be tackling this project soon and I want to use this as a guide!

GroverzVTEC · 01-14-2003, 12:15 PM

Especially becuase there are pics still

Unlike the CURRENT FAQ for Header...

I will be installing my used CC Header soon and will go by this...wish I still had my laptop lol

Grover