PJizle 97' Base Progression Thread

[PJizle]

NEW UPDATE

Alright, I'd just like to apologize I haven't been able to update this week. I'm done school so it was the first week working full time. Consequence, I had less time to work on the car. Luckily, a lot of work was done friday night and today[Saturday].

We started rebuilding the engine earlier this week, as planned...



Unfortunately...while trying to pull off a bolt from the camshaft the actual camshaft broke in half I've never heard of anything like this happening before.
Basically, while trying to remove the bolt[Part #31] to replace the pulley [Part #16], the entire camshaft[Part #15] broke in half.


Anyway this was completely unbelievable. Not only is this total bullsh*t because it costs 300 USD approx. 400CND but I just got my order shipped and now have to wait a minimum 2 weeks more to receive this part[the representative for customer service said it wasn't in stock and they'd have to order it]. So I'm still scrambling to find the quickest solution because this build needs to be done ASAP.

So we put the engine on hold for a bit and got back to body work. I got to cleaning + sanding the car and bumpers to prep it/them for paint.




***Now for all the people asking me about my rust repair methods listen closely.

As I mentioned earlier, my rear wheel arches were severely damaged from winter driving. Rust was so bad that the wheel welds were falling apart, it didn't look to nice either.

This job obviously required more than sanding. We visited a local body shop and got the man to create molds/replica 97' prelude arches out of metal. This was about 300 CND. Then we ordered this glue called "Lord Epoxy". The glue was about another 100-150CND. Now this glue is apparently stronger than welding so we gave it a try. If your curious, do a little research, it's pretty easy to find information on it.

For pictures of the rust on the arches and the molds themselves scroll up ^^.

So first things first, we sawed off the rusted/infected area. Then, the mold and arch area were sanded and primered. Then we fitted the replica onto the car itself.


Continued by making markings to know where to apply the glue and then continued to apply it.


Then using available tools and realistic means we applied pressure to hold it together[The ghetto way].



Got to grinding it to even it out.



Finally applied puddy and left it to dry over night.

Oh, BTW..we are running out of space in the garage...


So far the Epoxy looks like its working as it should. I'll be able to give a better conclusion with time on this product.

[M0BManBB8]

dude really nice build hope you get it to the point you want it to be.... i woudl love to be able to do all that to my car myself...!

[PJizle]

Thanx a lot, however none of this would be possible without my dad. I'm pretty dumb when it comes to the mechanical aspect which is why he mostly does the work on the engine and I work on the body. I'm watching closely though and I'm learning pretty quickly...I think both my goal and his is to get me to the point where I don't need his help because honestly I think he's had enough of working on my car :P

[86mcss]

great build up...keep posting

[shawnash22]

I know where you live.


















Good progress dood hope you're learning from it Going to have to hit dix30 for some lude-whoring pictures soon.

[MarxmaN]

That AC Cobra is badass, although it looks out of place with all that snow. You can send it down here to California and I'll be happy to look after it... LOL!

[rpwolf]

Have you heard of "FRM sleeves"?

[PJizle]

ROFL oh noes Shawn! Yeah we're definitely going to have to grab several hundred pictures but Dix-30 is too boring, we'll need to make it more interesting.

Does it look more in place now?? Oh yes new tires





And no, I haven't. Please share, I am very interested.

[prepreludesh]

Originally Posted by rpwolf

Have you heard of "FRM sleeves"?

I was thinking of the same thing when he said and showed pictures of him sanding down the cylinder walls...

[PJizle]

^^ I'll read up on it after work but if you guys can feel free to simplify/sum up what it is and how much it'll cost .

Small Update 4 this morning

I got to sanding the arches and putting them in their final stages of repair. After this we'll just need to put some filler, sand and then prime and its ready for paint.




I also painted the Valve cover...unfortunately I was distracted and forgot to apply primer first . Before I restart, I'll wait and see how it dries up...I'm hoping it'll hold up but wtv it'll take maybe 45 minutes to redo so it isn't the end of the world.


Have any of you guys ever made this mistake? If so how did it hold up, if possible I'd prefer not having to redo it but I also don't want something that will crack and look stupid.

[prepreludesh]

The FRM sleeves are a tricky bunch. They're not quite aluminum and they're not steel or iron. All of those metals, by themselves, have properties that are well known and adapt well to diamond honing tools. But FRM sleeves (Fiber Reinforced Material (metal) )are different. The properties of it means that if you use a diamond hone, it will cut grooves into the FRM sleeves and ends up scoring it worse, which is what you were trying to fix in the first place.

So we all see you're using sandpaper, which is probably safe, but I think some of us are thinking that using sandpaper by hand might leave the perfectly cylindrical cylinder walls, slightly uneven. And if they're uneven a little bit, it won't take long for the piston rings and pistons to be thrown off and it will end up re-scoring the walls and then damaging your engine permanently. A diamond hone uses three equally spaced diamonds-blocks and a drill bit to spin them around to create an "even" circumfrance of contact around the walls so you don't have a microscopically "oval" cylinder bore.

I think I explained this right... but I don't think I'm qualified to say "go get a new engine block because if its scored now and you don't resleeve it, it's gonna blow shortly after you put it together."

[PJizle]

Alright, thanks I'll look into it. The whole reason we used sand paper is too make sure we we're still within spec of the diameter size for the H22A.

[M0BManBB8]

dude its coming out efffin nice man

[PJizle]

Haha thanks...today I did a bit more sanding so it's in it's final stages. My dad was also lucky and found a OEM cam for 100 bucks from a mechanic he knew. Now both the car can get painted and the engine rebuilt in short time. I can't wait!

[M0BManBB8]

Originally Posted by PJizle

Haha thanks...today I did a bit more sanding so it's in it's final stages. My dad was also lucky and found a OEM cam for 100 bucks from a mechanic he knew. Now both the car can get painted and the engine rebuilt in short time. I can't wait!

dude congrats on the deal for the cam...

[rpwolf]

there is a certain way to hone FRM sleeves, if not done properly prepare to smoke or worse.

[PJizle]

New Update

Today was an effin frustrating day, too many ups and downs.

It started on a positive note. The arches were smoothed out and looked pretty damn good.




Then got a nice gift from Honda.





Finally I'd be able to replace these ugly moldings.



BAM! New Oil Pan + Window Trim




Now here comes the first down. When I took a closer look at the oil pan I noticed several cracks. It was in worst condition than the one I currently had and wanted to replace.




After taking a deeper look I realized it was just it's design, I guess. The crack was in the exact same place as the one I had on my car. That's what made me purchase it in the first place, I thought the crack was contributing to the leaking oil. Seems like it wasn't after filling them both up with water and leaving them 4 hours with no leakage. Now, hopefully Majestic Honda accepts returns or else I'm going to be mad.

Then my dad and I hooked the car up with some Bling Bling window tints. Sweet & cheap DIY .





Rolling back down hill now...

So exactly what happened is that I wasn't quite happy with the way my Valve Cover came out the first time around. While sanding the letters, I managed to scuff other areas and it looked crappy. Obviously after putting all this time and effort into the car I'm not going to let the first thing you see when you pop the hood look half ass. Using the exact same methods I used the first time around, I gave it another go. I expected to be done within an hour but I was way off.

The paint remover didn't work as it did the first time. Scrapping didn't work either, nor did sanding, paint thinner and several others methods I attempted. It's was absolute bullsh*t.

After 2 hours of back and forth this is what it looked like.




The thing is that this paint acted like a bacteria or virus. I tried to remove it from one location but it would move to another as I wiped, scrapped, sanded, etc. Here is what it looks like now (5 hours later).




What you don't see however is that underneath, some of the remover + paint + paint thinner had gone through. Now I'm hoping it didn't get stuck in the vents or else the oil won't go through and I'm going to be even more upset.


Meanwhile, my dad was spraying the car with it's first coat of primer [arches came out so nice].





Now I have a couple questions for you guys.

Firstly, how the hell do I remove what's left on the valve cover.

Secondly, is there a chemical/product I could let seep through the holes to get rid of anything [Paint residue] that could of gotten stuck in the vents.

Thirdly, although the arches came out incredibly well (to date), they did add a little to the car. Now there is a small gap between the arch or rear fender and the bumper.



Can I just use filler to create a mold or is there a better method to "link" them together.

[PJizle]

Originally Posted by rpwolf

there is a certain way to hone FRM sleeves, if not done properly prepare to smoke or worse.

According to my mechanic, what we did was so minimal that there's nearly no risk. Already it had been scarred nearly out of spec so we had very little to work with before needing bigger pistons and I don't have the money for that so we did a small but hopefully effective job.

[h22jdmvtec]

man, thats is coming out fantastic!

[PJizle]

NEW UPDATE

More progress came today, however because of the stupid valve cover we fell slightly behind.

I got started early this morning to get it over with.
New product, Le Page [4 you Qc-ers], worked much better.


As I said in yesterday's post, some of the stupid product I used the previous days seeped in and created residue in the vents, holes and gaskets. Required a lot of elbow grease and time to remove it all.


Finally got it cleaned up and it was ready for paint.
VALVE COVER : TAKE TWO




At the same time, we brought the car out to get wetsanded.




Milky...[Yes the rims are backwards ]


I'm crossing my fingers but the Engine should be back in and running by weekend's end and possibly painted