I own a BB8 too (with H22A8). Your Lude is fantastic, I love the colour and the fact that it's got a one off front bumper. Are rear fog lights not mandatory in Slovenia? Or have you integrated them into the tail lights?
See if you can find out who manufacturers that temp gauge, I would love one.
I also got a question about the NSX calipers and rotors. What else is needed besides the calipers and rotors to make the swap? i.e. different power booster and master cylinder, different brackets?
If it is not to much trouble, could you give us a breakdown of the parts needed that would probably be the easiest, cause I really want to make that swap.
*you can just PM me what all is necessary if you want
Thanks
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Definitely a hotass car!!! Love that color! So you custom fabricated to fit those gauges in your dash?
__________________ Allan
'91 MR2 SW20 Turbo - 2.2 TD06 20G Stroked - Future track whore
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But I think they look as if they were ment for the prelude.
I replaced the red H logos with stock prelude ones. The red ones looked kind of ricey on the prelude.
They look better on the lude than the Si
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I design the world you live in.... Cheers for Industrial Designers!!
95 Integra LS <<<>>> 99 CBM Prelude SH
Rear fogs are mandatory in Slovenia, but I doubt that anyone will notice that it's missing. I also plan to install them in the tail lights eventually.
For a complete NSX brake swap you would need following:
- obviously a set of NSX calipers (with brackets)
- 4x 10mm spacers for the bracket mount point (made from hq heat treated steel) so that the caliper will fit on an NSX rotor
- 4x longer (+10mm) bracket bolts (some hondas use these anyway so it's best if you can find oem ones)
- set of longer wheel bolts (20 pieces) - need to be pressed into the wheel hub
- 4x 10mm (or according to wish) wheel spacers (also best to use hq steel)
- 2 front wheel bearings (you need these because you need to remove the existing ones in order to install longer wheel bolts and they tend to fail after being pressed out once - however, no need to do that in the rear)
- pair of NSX rotors
You need to go with the wheel spacers because otherwise the caliper will probably be hitting the rim. If you run some extra big rims and don't plan to use stock ones or similar at any point, you can also skip this step and save quite some money (no bearings, wheel spacers, wheel bolts)
There's no need to make any other modifications and if you got all of the material above it should be easy to install them.
I personally use 10mm spacers, but I will probably go to at least 12 or more in the future because there's still some reserve now. On the other hand, my rims are only 7" wide and that's probably why 10mm is not "enough".
For the gauges it took quite a lot of fabrication to install them... The friend who made my bumper also made the gauge "tubes" out of carbon fibers. From there on it was just me, dash and a dremmel.
I got the inspiration for putting them half way in and driver orientated after driving 350Z for a day.
I'll let you know on the temp gauge...
__________________ EUDM 4WS bb8 - powered by JDM euroR H22
Can you give me the name of that tempurature thing, ilove it so i can look for one and get it in my lude as well. Hope you odn't mind me copying you lol and BTW loving the guage pod
I checked for the temp gauge at my local store... It's called "check temp" and it's imported from Czech republic.
They sell them for about $185 without the optional humidity sensor which is not needed for normal operation. They also said that if I order at least 5 pieces we could make a deal for about 10% less. I could get a group buy started if you're interested.
I scanned the manual so you can see what it can do...
Quote:
So you didn't change the mastercylinder? Does Honda use the same one for both?
upr0ar, there was no need to do that. The feel on the pedal is even better than stock so I didn't bother complicating any further. However, I haven't driven an NSX yet, so I can't tell if there's any difference in the feel.
__________________ EUDM 4WS bb8 - powered by JDM euroR H22
what is included in the CheckTemp package if ordered without the humidity sensor? Also is it possible to scan the installation manual? I am curious as to how it controls the air circulation.
__________________
Name: Jack-in-the-Box -|- Car: 2010 Nissan GTR -|- 2001 EBP Type SH Gremlin Infested. Do Not Add Water. Seriously, DO NOT ADD WATER. RIP. To be replaced.
I do not need to explain anything to you.
My broken wings still strong enough to cross the ocean with.
My broken wings how far should I go drifting in the wind.
The cf tubes were made by the same person that did my bumper.
The package includes following:
- CheckTemp module
- connector for the module w/wiring
- 2 temperature sensors w/wiring
- AC switching relay
- 2 mount brackets (which you won't need)
- 2 sensor mount brackets
- instruction manual
That's all as far as I remember.
__________________ EUDM 4WS bb8 - powered by JDM euroR H22
I own a BB8 too (with H22A8). Your Lude is fantastic, I love the colour and the fact that it's got a one off front bumper. Are rear fog lights not mandatory in Slovenia? Or have you integrated them into the tail lights?
See if you can find out who manufacturers that temp gauge, I would love one.
I was getting all excited, planning to buy one, then I realised that all of those dashboard "holes" are used - rear fogs, sunroof, cruise control, front fogs and headlight aim
I was getting all excited, planning to buy one, then I realised that all of those dashboard "holes" are used - rear fogs, sunroof, cruise control, front fogs and headlight aim
Yeah... But, do you really need the headlight aim?
You can also mount that ugly switch somewhere else, so it can't be seen... In case you really want to keep it.
__________________ EUDM 4WS bb8 - powered by JDM euroR H22
__________________ Medium Scott - XBox GT: derech0 - 2005 PPW Track Model: 64k Miles Mods: JWT|MotorDyne|Nismo|Kenwood|Sparco|UR|Work Emotion|Brembo|BF Goodrich
From my understanding of it is, if you drive up/down a hill, the headlights can affect oncoming downhill drivers. Thus you can vertically aim them down to the road instead of the sky.
Of if you want to signal for ET to phone home, you can aim them up
__________________
Name: Jack-in-the-Box -|- Car: 2010 Nissan GTR -|- 2001 EBP Type SH Gremlin Infested. Do Not Add Water. Seriously, DO NOT ADD WATER. RIP. To be replaced.
I do not need to explain anything to you.
My broken wings still strong enough to cross the ocean with.
My broken wings how far should I go drifting in the wind.
I dont get this Headlight Aim thing...anyone care to take a stab at it?
And :drool:
I wub your car
If you have people sitting in the back of the car and/or lots of stuff in the boot (trunk), the rear end is slightly lower than the front, therefore, the lights will be pointing upwards slightly. Or, if no one is in the back and the boot (trunk) is empty and you’ve got a very fat heavy person sitting next to you, it would have the complete opposite effect. With the vertical headlight aim, you can compensate for this. Get it? It’s also good when on a quiet motorway (highway) late at night, so you can increase the lighting distance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VTi BB8
Yeah... But, do you really need the headlight aim?
You can also mount that ugly switch somewhere else, so it can't be seen... In case you really want to keep it.
I could get rid of the cruise control button (the button is never used ‘cos it’s always turned on) and would like to get another rear fog light button to use with my front fog lights. That would free up a hole on the bottom row for the temp gauge.
Or I could replace the standard clock with the temp gauge and use the clock on my stereo instead.
If you put the wing back on, you would have my favorite Prelude.
Oh Hell, you still have my favorite Prelude, but putting the wing back on would make it better. OR!!!!! Get the authentic wing with LED breaklight. I'm still using your wallpaper, though. Danke Schoen!
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