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Old 08-09-2010, 12:02 AM   #61 (permalink)
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any tips? what did u use to cut them to make them flush?
+1 on wondering how you got them to sit flush with the door like that..never seen that before. even real mugens aren't flush with the door. looks good though
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Old 08-09-2010, 12:48 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edulerp10 View Post
any tips? what did u use to cut them to make them flush?
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Originally Posted by hnguy4 View Post
+1 on wondering how you got them to sit flush with the door like that..never seen that before. even real mugens aren't flush with the door. looks good though
It took a lot of lining up, marking, and cutting. I used a rotozip to trim each section and then used a sander to the slightest detail until they were flush. After that, I used some brackets to fasten the underside of the skirt to the body.
I admit, it took a little work and time to get them flush but I think that in the end, the dedication will show. Thanks for the compliments and feel free to ask any more questions.
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Old 08-10-2010, 09:57 AM   #63 (permalink)
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It took a lot of lining up, marking, and cutting. I used a rotozip to trim each section and then used a sander to the slightest detail until they were flush. After that, I used some brackets to fasten the underside of the skirt to the body.
I admit, it took a little work and time to get them flush but I think that in the end, the dedication will show. Thanks for the compliments and feel free to ask any more questions.
so how else are they staying on the car? i would think if it only had the brackets on the underside it wouldn't stay upright. you have any pics of those brackets and the other places you're using to fasten them to the car? i'm curious about mounting because i'm trying to figure a good way to put my mugen skirts on and would not like to drill into the body of the car
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Old 08-10-2010, 11:16 AM   #64 (permalink)
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The 3 layers of fiberglass and resin hold the skirts to the body. The underside brackets are there just to stabilize the unsupported areas. Realistically, the fiberglass acts like cement. I couldn't barely flex the skirts without the brackets bolted on, nvm pull them off the car. After he body filler goes on, it would take an act of god to get those back off. Honestly, the underside brackets are just personal preference, probably not entirely required. Thanks for the compliments.
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Old 08-11-2010, 02:18 AM   #65 (permalink)
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just a thought..since the fiberglass is so firmly cemented to the car and stiff it might make it easier to break if there's any impact..i know some people prefer to have their aero parts not so stiff so it gives the parts so room to flex if there's impact..it would make a difference between the part cracking or just scratching or scraping
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Old 08-11-2010, 09:19 PM   #66 (permalink)
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just a thought..since the fiberglass is so firmly cemented to the car and stiff it might make it easier to break if there's any impact..i know some people prefer to have their aero parts not so stiff so it gives the parts so room to flex if there's impact..it would make a difference between the part cracking or just scratching or scraping
Well the parts are flexible enough to resist an impact. It's cemented to the body, which obviously isn't going to have flexibility to it. Hopefully the chances of getting t-boned low enough to hit the skirts would be rare, i would think. The brackets on the bottom just keep the skirts from swinging wildly. But they are just thin aluminum brackets that are easy to bend if you wanted to. They act more like a hinge to keep them from swinging to the outside of the car, and from sagging.
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Old 08-25-2010, 07:16 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Finally got outside in the heat and worked on the body kit some more. We measured the rear add-ons and secured the support brackets on each part. Forgot my camera so I just took a few quick pics with the iphone. Plz excuse the quality.

These are the brackets mounted on the rear bumper.


Measured and ready for fitment onto the rear add ons.


Used a regular resin mixture to secure them to the add on, then added a sheet of fiberglass and more resin for reinforcement.


Kinda random, but here are a couple pics of the interior. Working on configuring the dash for the new cluster.



I was hoping to fit the pieces on the bumper but they weren't quite cured yet. I'll have this updated soon.
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Old 08-26-2010, 12:33 AM   #68 (permalink)
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You have come a long way and you have a long way to go. Keep up the good work! De rice is very good
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:23 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Made some progress on the rear bumper yesterday and today.

Sanded the rear pieces and bumper to make sure the fiberglass resin gets a good grip.



I think I left a scratch...


And like I figured, the rear add-ons didn't fit the bumper as well as I would have liked, thus requiring some more trimming with the rotozip. We couldn't find any safety wire so we used some twine to pull the thinner side of each piece inward so they matched the curve of the bumper. Kinda looks shabby but it'll hold it just fine long enough to apply the fiberglass.


I had to remove a section from the add-ons due to the design flaw from Extreme Dymensions. The top end towards the wheel well stuck out past the fender about a half inch, but made a easy job for the rotozip. The fiberglass will replace the material that was removed.



The rear compared to the side skirts.


And from the back.


From the above angle, you can see the gap on each innermost side of the add-ons. We decided that on the next step we'll use the fiberglass sheet and blend this area in. We'll then remove the slots in the rear bumper that would have normally been used to fasten the OEM lip. This will hopefully leave a smooth finish to the rear bumper modification.
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:40 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Today I applied two layers of fiberglass cloth and resin on the driver side rear bumper and one layer on the passenger side. I had a goal to have three layers applied on both sides, which was possible until the heat outside helped to cure the resin/hardener mixture too early. This sucked because I couldn't work faster than the mixture hardened, causing me to lose 1/3rd of a can of resin . I figured that using half the hardener required would counter for the heat outside, but apparently it was still too much. Regardless, I took some pictures of the driver side with two layers applied.









Tomorrow I'll pick up another can of resin and finish the job. Hopefully everything will go a bit more smoothly. Wish me luck.
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:20 PM   #71 (permalink)
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why didn't you just attach the mugen rears to the rear lip that comes stock on the car like everyone else does? that probably would have been much easier
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:32 AM   #72 (permalink)
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why didn't you just attach the mugen rears to the rear lip that comes stock on the car like everyone else does? that probably would have been much easier
The bumper I bought didn't come with the lip. It just came bare. It saved me some money to go on without it at the cost of some time and effort. At the moment, I don't have much money to throw at the car. So this is the best course for the moment. Good idea tho.
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Old 09-09-2010, 10:41 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Thanks for the compliments everyone. You guys motivate me to get this done as soon as possible. Here's a quick update to the build.

I called Race Engine Development today in hopes of new progress on the sleeved block. To get anyone up to speed on the block situation, I'm purchasing an H22 block, freshly sleeved with cryo-treated (cryogenic) Darton MID sleeves, and a 89.5 mm (2.3L) bore. Steve, the owner, is not cheap by all means. The total bill is about 2200 bucks. However this does include new piston rings, bearings, fresh machine work, and a new crower rod to replace the #2 rod that scorched when the old block cracked. But the most important thing is that Steve is the designer, and has the patent on the Darton MID sleeve.
His update on the block is that all the parts are in, and he just needs to mic out all the machine work that was done on the block. I paid him 500 bucks to get things started, but it seems that he won't have the time to finish the job for about another month. But... if I were to pay off the bill in full, he could see about squeezing me in somewhere.
Ok, at first I'm like, WTF! But after I thought about it, he's already shelled out all the cash for the rings, bearings, machine work, and the $200 crower rod. So, I understand the situation he's in. I don't think he believes that I'm a committed customer when I've only paid him 500 in the last several months, due to trying to catch up on bills. Babies can get expensive... .
So it looks like I'm gonna have to pay him off asap in order to get the ball rolling again.
I worked on the car again today and applied another layer of fiberglass cloth and resin to the rear addons. While that was curing, I took Mike's DA sander and started smoothing all the rough fiberglass edges off of the driver's side skirt. Here are the pictures I took today.









Tomorrow or Saturday I'll swing by and get the last layer applied and sand the other side skirt.
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Old 09-11-2010, 01:39 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Quick update on the engine...
Called Skunk2 today about the flat-face pro series valves. Turns out it'll be at least a month before these valves will even be produced again. After a talk with Brian at Skunk2, I decided to go with standard size pro series valves due to their availability. This will drop my unofficial estimated compression to around 9.7:1. I'll still have just enough compression to run the Pro 1 cams n/a for the time being. When I get the official compression ratio number for the engine, I'll have to make up my mind whether to keep it at 10:1 or to lower it down a bit to give me more room for higher boost levels. I'll have to change the thickness of the head gasket to get the results I need.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:31 AM   #75 (permalink)
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nice job there, bro u started to scear me about ERL i was going to order a built short block my self now i dont think am going to get it from them, do race engine development make short block pakages and do they shipp world wide?
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:15 PM   #76 (permalink)
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nice job there, bro u started to scear me about ERL i was going to order a built short block my self now i dont think am going to get it from them, do race engine development make short block pakages and do they shipp world wide?
Thanks man. I'm glad that you found out before you spent hard earned money on that block. You would always have that thought in the back of your mind whether they did a professional job on yours, or did a shabby job like on mine. There's was no way to tell until the block was under load. It sure does suck to install the block and get your car running finally, just to have it start knocking after 3-4k miles.
Race Engine Development does build short blocks. He concentrates mainly on NSX engines but he will do other models as well. As for him shipping world-wide, I'm not sure. Here's his number tho. Steve (760) 630-0450. He's easy to get along with and is more than happy to answer questions. He's usually pretty busy, so he probably will try to get to the point so that he can get back to work.
He builds the blocks but has a machine shop handle any bore changes and finish hones. And he works with Endyn (Energy Dynamics) if you're interested in purchasing a head, or having some head work done.
Do me a favor and tell him that Mike with the H22 sent ya . Maybe he'll give me some type of discount

Finished applying the fiberglass sheets on the passenger side rear addon.


Now the only work left with the sheets are the inner sections of the rear addons, where they sit under the rear bumper. The plan is to smooth out the visible jagged edges.


The standard size Skunk2 Pro Series valves came in the mail. I'll be setting these in the head soon enough.







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Old 10-07-2010, 08:43 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Finished sanding on the body kit today, which took waaay to much time. I quit using the DA sander because of the several angles of the body, so I opted for a sand wheel which turned out to be much more effective. Also upon completion, the lude and I ended up head to toe in a coat of fiberglass in powder form.
Here's some pics from today...











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Old 10-14-2010, 01:29 PM   #78 (permalink)
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seems like an aweful lot of work, cant wait to see it when you get it pained, hard to tell how it will look now, aslo curious to see how the guage cluster is looking
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Old 10-18-2010, 07:39 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Sanded the hell outta the same spots again. Trying to get all the prep work done before I start applying body filler to the gaps left between the body and the kit. I'll be paying off Race Engine Development this week, which means I should have the true compression results, as well as the block itself by the end of next week. After a short trip to the salvage yard, I managed to find all but one of the plugs needed to complete the conversion from the Prelude cluster to the Integra Type R cluster. I'll be heading out early tomorrow morning to build the head, finish the sanding on the rear add-ons, and applying the body filler. I'll have pics up by tomorrow night showing everything we've managed to get finished before dark.
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:49 AM   #80 (permalink)
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nice cant wait to see the final result
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