I finally managed to be off work while having enough daylight to take a few pics and videos of the Prelude as it is currently. I had to bribe my friend Taylor with some Reese's before he decided to take a few videos of the Prelude in action. I apologize for the sound quality. My tiny camcorder sucks for audio.
So, here are the pics and videos I've taken today of my bumper-less, wing-less Prelude that needs some polishing.
Looks good man, sounds ok, kinda tinny, but all in all man good.
IF iw as you i would look into switching the responators to reduce the tin sound a bit.
I got my h23 int he car and now i need to just do soime minor tweaking (to the tb) then i can focus on getting it tuned and running. As soon as i get some progress ont hat end i will post up a drive by video.
Looks good man, sounds ok, kinda tinny, but all in all man good.
IF iw as you i would look into switching the responators to reduce the tin sound a bit.
I got my h23 int he car and now i need to just do soime minor tweaking (to the tb) then i can focus on getting it tuned and running. As soon as i get some progress ont hat end i will post up a drive by video.
Thanks man. The car sounds better than the video does, but I know the car would sound a little better if it had a cat. Overall, I'm pretty picky about exhausts and it still satisfies me. Do you have a build thread?
Not really, not about the car, i began one about the h23VTEC, and i will be wrappign it up in the spring when the roads are good and i can take the car out. By that time, i should have all the body work done, time will tell.
If it is somethign that i think should be done then i willl do it, like the h23 thread, i think that is a good topic to do as there are so few with good pics and a full walk through. I did have on hand my HD hero cam that i used when i pulle the h22 that was in the prelude so that i could put the h23 in, it made a cool file.
Love the look of wrapped headers, gonna have to redo mine when I'm broke and itching to do a mod since it's cheap. How's the ground clearance? Is it the one my by private label mfg?
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New Formula Red 93 BB2: JDM OBD1 H22a/T2W4 Accord Euro R transmission
Last edited by minilogoguy18; 01-07-2012 at 07:50 PM.
Love the look of wrapped headers, gonna have to redo mine when I'm broke and itching to do a mod since it's cheap. How's the ground clearance? Is it the one my by private label mfg?
What is the benefit of wrapping the headers? I just took off the wrap from my DC headers (was wrapped piss-poor and it literally desintagrated when I went to unwrap it)... I'm assuming that it helps to cut down on the heat from the headers affecting the alternator and radiator...
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-1992 Honda Accord DX... sold
-1993 Honda Accord EX 5spd...Sold
-1991 Honda Prelude SI... Sold
-1989 Honda Prelude AWS... Sold
-2002 Honda Civic EX... Sold
-Now-1997 Honda Prelude 5spd Base model with SH engine and Tranny... In the process of restoration.
Love the look of wrapped headers, gonna have to redo mine when I'm broke and itching to do a mod since it's cheap. How's the ground clearance? Is it the one my by private label mfg?
Thanks man. That's exactly what I was aiming for. I was hoping to get the exhaust to be louder, but also retain the natural and original exhaust note. The ground clearance is awesome since no part of the exhaust hangs lower than the rest of the components under the car.
Are you talking about the exhaust or the wrap?
Quote:
Originally Posted by my97lude
What is the benefit of wrapping the headers? I just took off the wrap from my DC headers (was wrapped piss-poor and it literally desintagrated when I went to unwrap it)... I'm assuming that it helps to cut down on the heat from the headers affecting the alternator and radiator...
You're correct. Typically the cooler the engine bay, the more effective the engine runs. With these stainless steel headers, even wrapped, the hood still gets pretty warm when at operating temp. In the rain, the hood actually steams. Imagine how hot it would be in there without the wrap...
Hey man, we've talked a few times in the past. Nice to finally see this thing back on the road. It sure is sharp looking, makes me miss my Prelude. I sold it back in October and jumped into the CRX scene and never looked back haha. Anyway, love the car, goodluck with any future plans.
ive followed this thread since it started, good job on the car. its lookin much better than when it was riced your going at a slow pace with this build
Hey man, we've talked a few times in the past. Nice to finally see this thing back on the road. It sure is sharp looking, makes me miss my Prelude. I sold it back in October and jumped into the CRX scene and never looked back haha. Anyway, love the car, goodluck with any future plans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by igor_adz
ive followed this thread since it started, good job on the car. its lookin much better than when it was riced your going at a slow pace with this build
I apologize for my inactivity on here. Been really busy between work and school. Thanks fellas. Nothing feels better than getting behind my running prelude again. And when my wife, daughter and I move to our new house next week, I'll finally have my own garage to finish painting the bumper, wing, and various parts. Then I'll be an extremely happy Prelude owner.
Quote:
Originally Posted by minilogoguy18
Pics of ground clearance? Tired of my PLM tri-y's bad ground clearance, might look into a new header soon.
I'll take a picture of the ground clearance after work today. I hope it would still be useful for you.
Finally, I've managed to scan the dyno sheet for the Blue Top H23 VTEC. Here it is...
And here are a couple pics of the RMF replica header ground clearance that I promised a little while back. I used a powerade bottle for better judgment.
Granted my Prelude sits on 17" wheels, meaty tires, and stock suspension. So the clearance would be less if used on a completely stock Prelude.
And in case you are wondering, I also noticed the exhaust hanging in the back. Apparently right before I stopped to take these pictures, a bolt came lose from my muffler hanger and did this...
So I stopped by Oreily's and picked up a couple new bolts and lock nuts to fix it easily.
I'm having a hard time selling this Endyn machined H22 head for a good price, and to be honest, I'm halfway tempted to buy the needed valvetrain parts and install the head onto the current H23 block. The current H23 blue top has a standard jdm H22 head. No mods would be needed. All I'd have to do is check the clearances and degree the cams in. Of course I'd need to spec out the Endyn head before hand, to make sure I have enough clearance to pull this off with a set of Skunk2 Pro 1 cams, which are designed for 10-11.0:1 Compression. I could actually get much closer to the cams full potential, now that I have a 10.6:1 compression engine.
Then again, should I attempt this build? Or keep the engine stock? Decisions decisions...
On my h23 i used a BC valvetrain, just cuz i could. lol
It would be interesting to see what kind of numebrs the h23 would make with a good head on it. If you have the time then i why not try it? the worst that happens is you remove it and put the old one back on if you do not liek the results....no?
On my h23 i used a BC valvetrain, just cuz i could. lol
It would be interesting to see what kind of numebrs the h23 would make with a good head on it. If you have the time then i why not try it? the worst that happens is you remove it and put the old one back on if you do not liek the results....no?
Well, I'm sure I'd be fond of the results, but will they be worth the $1000 in valvetrain.
What kind of numbers is your H23 producing now with the BC valvetrain?
Wow! This thread was a roller-coaster ride of emotions for me. I can't imagine what you must've gone through...
Well, I sort of can. I am currently in the process of swapping a H23 VTEC in my 98 base lude. My H22A4 was hydrolocked in September, filled cylinder 1 up with water, and bent the rod something awful.
The swap has been a headache for me to say the least. While taking the old engine out, it became clear I needed new motor mounts, and an oil presure switch. I bought all the stuff necessary so I could run the new H23 VTEC OBDII, but the car wasn't starting.
We forgot to use the US fuel rail, so we put that on..no go. Mechanic said it was a crank sensor, so I bought a new crank sensor. Come to find out, I needed to swap the balancer belt gear AND the timing belt gear drives as well. They have recently been swapped and the car starts! The only problem is the car won't rev past 3k rpm, and eventually shuts off. My mechanic says he's getting a throttle positioning sensor code and the sensor needs to be replaced...but I want to make absolutely sure it's not something else before I buy a new sensor.
You seem very knowledgeable, so I'd love any advice if you have any suggestions. You can get a more in-depth description of my swap here:
Wow! This thread was a roller-coaster ride of emotions for me. I can't imagine what you must've gone through...
Well, I sort of can. I am currently in the process of swapping a H23 VTEC in my 98 base lude. My H22A4 was hydrolocked in September, filled cylinder 1 up with water, and bent the rod something awful.
The swap has been a headache for me to say the least. While taking the old engine out, it became clear I needed new motor mounts, and an oil presure switch. I bought all the stuff necessary so I could run the new H23 VTEC OBDII, but the car wasn't starting.
We forgot to use the US fuel rail, so we put that on..no go. Mechanic said it was a crank sensor, so I bought a new crank sensor. Come to find out, I needed to swap the balancer belt gear AND the timing belt gear drives as well. They have recently been swapped and the car starts! The only problem is the car won't rev past 3k rpm, and eventually shuts off. My mechanic says he's getting a throttle positioning sensor code and the sensor needs to be replaced...but I want to make absolutely sure it's not something else before I buy a new sensor.
You seem very knowledgeable, so I'd love any advice if you have any suggestions. You can get a more in-depth description of my swap here:
Well man, I'm sorry to say, but it appears that you have chosen the most complicated path to running the H23AVTEC in your OBD2 prelude. Instead of trying to make a JDM (OBD1) engine run on a current OBD2 system, you would have found it much less difficult to convert the car over to OBD1, and just plug the new engine in. That is, if all of the engine components and sensors were in good working condition when you received the engine.
If you want my honest advice, if you are planning on running the chipped OBD1 P28 ecu, then you should convert the rest of the car to OBD1.
The only remaining changes that you need to complete in order to have the system fully converted to OBD1 are to replace the OBD2 distributor to the OBD1 (internal coil) 1996 and earlier distributor. The Crank Position and Top Dead Center sensors are built into the OBD1 Distributor. So you'll need to splice in the power and ground wires, 4 total, from the OBD2 external CP and TDC sensors back into the OBD1 Distributor. Write ups are all over the net if you do a little searching.
If you choose to remain OBD2, from what I understand, you'll need to mount the external CPS and TDC sensors to the oil pump housing, just like the H22A4 was, and use your H22A4 Intake assembly and EGR system.
You basically are very close to having a fully OBD1 system, which is the same system that the H23AVTEC is designed for. So you might as well finish the conversion and get the engine running much sooner, with less headache and labor, in my opinion.
Hopefully this has helped you, and if anyone has anything to add or correct, please do.
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your going at a slow pace with this build 
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