Hey thanks for all of this and all the updates with all the pictures.
Your lude is really coo.
I like the exterior and interior and all the performance parts.
Its an awsome progress thread .
Hope the best of luck and paint your gauge bezels! lol
its a cheap and easy mod that you will appreciate alot.
lol. i didnt notice that you had painted them.
And btw the whole way that you made this thread with the stories and all the pics it makes me look at it with a whole different perspective.lol
Most of the the time i go through a thread see pics and be like eehhh coo .
But this one shows so many more details anywayz thumbs up.
Thanks for the support though, I do appreciate it. And I've always enjoyed writing, I strive for a style that is easily relatable no matter what age or reading level you're at. I know I can get long-winded sometimes but I try to go into enough detail that the person who just is getting started can relate or the scrupulous grammar hunter won't immediately get turned off and look elsewhere for their information.
Overall, i just want to spread the love of the sport and show others that to learn off of my mistakes will save them time and money. I also want to show that if you devote yourself and all your money to a car, you can have a car like this with nothing else to show for it!
you should get some better pics of your new grill btw..
IMO both of them look equally good but your going to get rid of atts anyway so thats a reason the new grill is better.
I just took a couple of pictures today after finally getting around to seeing if I could take one of the two 10mm spacers out from my front wheels. As you'll recall, when I put on the big brake kit on the front wheels, there was not enough room for the stock wheel studs to accept any kind of lug nut because the big brake kit had pushed it back too much. So I had to stick 2 10mm spacers on each wheel and put an ARP wheel stud kit on the front hubs. The wheels stuck out disgustingly from the front for quite a while making me not as happy as I should've been with the appearance of the car, but I recently bought some Muteki Lug nuts (with the open ends). The plus side to all of this is I've just reduced my "unsprung mass" by maybe 3/4 of a pound, haha.
I just went out today to do this and I'll let the pictures do the rest of the story telling...
You can clearly see the spacers are double stacked, so I'm gonna try and pop one off and see if they'll fit...
Here is the best picture I could take showing the sizeable gap between the wheel spokes and the caliper
And from a straight angle, here is how much the tire jutted out from inside the fender well.
Afterwards...
Now the new gap (you can barely squeeze a piece of paper in between the spokes, but it does not touch the raised "Wilwood" lettering)
And finally, a shot at the Muteki Lug Nuts doing their job
Since I had a request to see the new front grille, here it is. I also threw in a picture of the ATTS Cooler (which is now pretty much defunct) to show how I replaced the front harmonic balancer bar (or whatever it's called that weighs 15 pounds that was in its place before this). I'm doing a writeup on it in my section under product reviews soon, so keep posted.
I wanted to show you all a problem that's been plaguing me ever since I got the supercharger installed and it's only gotten worse. If you're like me and have this supercharger, you know what I'm talking about, and it's the leaky power steering pipe extender. Since it's a metal to metal contact, there is no surefire way to seal this, and they don't make a gasket for it. So you will have to make your own. The items I used here are all self explanatory except the material I used for the actual gasket...
I went to a Pep Boys today after being unable to find any rubber mat in Hobby Lobby or Wal-Mart. But when I found a floormat that worked, the worker actually cut off a lengthy piece that was shown that you had to cut to trim anyway for free and I didn't even have to pay!
So now that I got all the items together, I'll do what I love to do and let the pictures do most of the talking...
The parts you'll need
Take the power steering return off from the extender, look at low the power steering fluid has got after not filling it for a while!
clean both surfaces from power steering fluid
cut the floormat to cover all the surface first
Now trim it down and mark with a black marker where you can feel the hole
I don't know, I never really knew there was a specification. This thing has leaked from the start though, any idea how to get it to stop? Metal to metal isn't an ideal combination to keep leaks from happening so I needed to try something.
I will try the paper gasket kit next from Pep Boys and maybe double-stack it to see if that helps. It's irritating to get the "smoke puff" from the vent in my hood when I'm turning a significant corner because the PS connector lets a fine mist of that stuff out right on the header.
I don't know, I never really knew there was a specification. This thing has leaked from the start though, any idea how to get it to stop? Metal to metal isn't an ideal combination to keep leaks from happening so I needed to try something.
I will try the paper gasket kit next from Pep Boys and maybe double-stack it to see if that helps. It's irritating to get the "smoke puff" from the vent in my hood when I'm turning a significant corner because the PS connector lets a fine mist of that stuff out right on the header.
For the gasket to work well in sealing you'll need to torque enough to compress the gasket pretty well. I'll check the helms to see what the torque specs are, but you would probably torque higher due to the gasket.
It is showing most of the components torques to 8lbs which is pretty dang light.
For the gasket to work well in sealing you'll need to torque enough to compress the gasket pretty well. I'll check the helms to see what the torque specs are, but you would probably torque higher due to the gasket.
It is showing most of the components torques to 8lbs which is pretty dang light.
well.. they're 10mm, which should not require a good amount of torque or else you'll break those bolts easily.
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Well, that is quite the saga, so far! Congrats on the car being really clean!
I don't mean to be a buzz kill, and I only say it because I don't want to see your sh*t get toasted, but the A/F ratios on your dyno are rather lean. It looks about 14:1 in the low rpm, slowly going down to 12:1. I'd shoot for straight-up 12:1, if not even 11.5:1 considering IATs.
Also, there is definitely MUCH more power to he had, from your set-up. From what I've seen of other's dynos, the torque curve shouldn't drop off like that...I'd say 150 ft-lbs at redline, minimum.
Wow, I should've been in bed hours ago. Thanks a lot :P
I'm glad somebody brought that up, I was just gonna play it off until they did. Here's my explanation:
The DynoJet I tested on had some issues with it in the fact that the computer seemed to be messed up a little bit. The first thing that was wrong with it was that it was registering everything as 500rpm lower than what the tachometer on the car was showing. We don't know why, but we decided to take the Tachometer's word that 8,000rpm was indeed, 8,000rpm and not 7,500.
The second thing is that the A/F ratio you see printed out on the bottom is from the Lamba Meter stuck in the tailpipe. Well if you remember back to the pictures of the night before, we had used RV Copper Silicone to make two temporary gaskets on the rear part of the exhaust. Almost instantly they didn't hold up. Chunks of that Sealant would fly off every now and then. So with an exhaust leak that far back, it wasn't getting a correct reading.
So we went off my AEM A/F Ratio Wideband Meter. This was much more accurate because of where it was positioned, namely on the collector of the header.
So in reality, we were just using the Dyno to tell us a horsepower number and torque number, everything else we were tuning off of the cars tach and the cars wideband and the cars computer to tell us timing and such.
In reality, I do run around a 12.5 A/F Ratio at wide open throttle. I absolutely demand this and not something richer. I'm going to be losing power if I run something as rich as 11.5:1 I know people on here do it, but I saw it with my own eyes as we made progressively more and more power from my baseline of 196hp (with 11.0:1 A/F Ratio). It was simply a matter of leaning it out and watching the power reel in.
For something that'll really get this forum fired up, you should see my A/F ratio at a constant highway speed with extremely low load on the engine, I'm running 15.5:1 to 16:1 without a problem... let the debate begin (can you say better MPG?)
Well, glad to know your engine is running a bit richer than it originally seemed! Does your car have a cat on it? If so (as you probably know), an A/F meter post-cat will read much more lean than pre-cat. (Hence why OBDII cars have two O2 sensors.)
12.5:1 is a good accepted safe A/F ratio, and much more fuel than this won't even do any additional cooling, it will just take up space in the combustion chamber, and possibly even makes things worse. SO, 11.0:1 will not only make less power, but it won't make you any less prone to detonate, on it's own. However, tuning a little more rich than 12.5:1 will offer you a bit more margin of error, in the event your fuel pressure drops, an injector gets clogged, etc. etc. The candle that burns twice as bright only burns half as long!
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