I mainly run the cat so that the noise level drops. I can't be having every cop in the neighborhood pull me over for noise. Hopefully the new exhaust system smooths that out...
I guess I came to the conclusion that if you notice my dyno graph, the reason the torque drops off so suddenly is because my VTEC is set to kick in at 4000 rpm. I think it might be better if I just turn the VTEC off on the engine computer to continue getting torque. I might sacrifice more HP in the top end, but at least I'd have the torque to carry me through to it. Hmmm...
I really do need to get new cams to stop this "valve overlap" problem. Damn you Honda! You over-engineered again!
Right, but was the dyno lambda sensor in the tail pipe? If so, that's why it was showing lean.
I'm almost positive that VTEC engaging too early isn't what's killing your torque. The curve looks fine at and past 4000rpm. If VTEC was killing the power, one would see a sudden dip at that point, but one doesn't. If anything, I would guess that VTEC was NOT engaged on that dyno you posted. At 5500 rpm (stock VTEC engagement point) the torque starts to drop off. Considering the stock torque peak is at, what, 6500rpm? it shouldn't do that.
If it's not that...your adjustable cam gears are installed, right? If so, maybe they aren't zeroed and are dialing out some valve overlap to begin with?
The only other option I see is that there is RIDICULOUS heatsoak that accumulates through the dyno pull, which kills the top end. However, I'm leaning toward VTEC not working. Try setting it to 2000rpm, or something really low, and see if it makes the engine run like a dog out of boost. If not, then something is wrong.
::EDIT:: Actually, I was just looking at some other JRSC dynos and I think that the torque dropping off is maybe just a function of the supercharger spinning so fast that it's out of it's efficiency range. Nothing some spendy porting won't fix
I happened to run across this gem on Ebay (yet another reason to shop there) and quickly snatched it up. It won't be on my car anytime soon, but for all of you that are "in the know" with Preludes, you realize just how rare this part is (or the sum of the parts that is).
What you are looking at is a JDM front bumper with JDM Fogs (aka driving lights) and the rarest of the rare, JDM corner foglights. The sweetest part about these is the fact that this option was made before Lexus ever debuted with their swiveling headlights. In the arena of safety that would allow you to see farther around a corner when you were turning to ward off any dangers you might come across a second or two sooner than if you just followed the beam of your stock headlights. With these "corner foglights" I think that as you turned the wheel, the side you were turning would activate that light and it would help light up the area just like a swiveling headlight.
I've tried to search for literature on how exactly they work, but so far I've found none explaining how they're wired up. I will continue to search for somebody with the technical know how, or enlist the help of a specialty fabricator in El Paso to see just how much I can do with them, but I'm very excited to have the opportunity to find this rare buy.
If anyone who reads this thread knows anything more about it, please let me know.
I just can't wait to throw my stock lip on it and repaint the whole thing for a truly one of a kind look!
Hey thanks for the compliments guys... by the way Brash22, if you ever have any rare stuff that the Prelude came with in Australia that you're willing to sell, let me know, I'll make you an offer!
Think about the only things we got were:
carbon look centre dash and door trim pieces standard
digital climate control.
I believe the US got split back seats, ours don't have a plastic divider.
Indicators in the front quarter panels.
Coin holder below the fog/cruise/dimmer switches.
probably other minor differences.
None of the above are Aus exclusive or rare I don't think.
Something tells me the best Prelude in the world didn't get its rash from aggressive driving.
Yeah tj....i found out the hard way that cornering hard wif a removed front swaybar as fun as it may be is not as fun when you pop out of a tight turn and swing the back end around.....sigh
while ive never been a real big fan of the sir interior...you pulled it off very nicely! looking good in there man.
and ive noticed how your have the hood black and the roof black. i didnt look to see it the hood is cf, which im thinking it is...but some cf eyebrows instead of the white ones imo would complete the look you seem to have on the outside. i think that would look hot
I've got some very big things brewing in an effort to try and get the car ready for the car show that's coming up in February here in El Paso. I have a set of OEM side skirts coming and plan on having those, my WWRS rear lip, JDM front bumper, OEM Lip and the front fenders all repainted. To finish the look, I am also having some HID's retrofitted into some Depo-style headlights.
I'm sure most of you have seen the bumper I have purchased with the rare JDM cornering lights, but now I want to install some JDM side markers. The good part is that wiring should be easy to get them to blink properly because I will no longer have my USDM side turn signals, so the wiring used for that can be easily spliced up towards the JDM side marker.
My only question is, has anyone ever run across any pictorials on how to do this? I'm sure I can figure it out, but I'd kinda like to not have to remove the fender if I can, but if it's the only way to run wires, then this is what I'll have to do. Also, if the paint shop needs to remove the fenders, then so be it, but I doubt they will want to fit these side markers by cutting into the fender if they don't have to.
If nobody else knows where to find this information, I'll be posting up some pictures when I get around to doing this.
Thanks for your help man, I found that pretty useful. I won't be alternating the lights blinking like that since I won't have a bumper side turn signal anymore, but I thought that was cool how he did that. I wish he would've included pictures of his friend cutting that fender... that part is gonna scare me until I make the first cut!
Nice build man, I'm planning on making a custom triple or quadruple dash gauge pod in the near future but mine is going to be fiberglass and color and texture matched to blend in with the dash material. I do like the cf one too though.
If you are worried about cutting you could always import some fenders from here since like JDM fenders they also have side indicators. Should work out to about US$50 plus shipping. Then again shipping could be expensive, plus the cost of repainting.
If you are worried about cutting you could always import some fenders from here since like JDM fenders they also have side indicators. Should work out to about US$50 plus shipping. Then again shipping could be expensive, plus the cost of repainting.
Do you know where to get some of those fenders cheaper than the ones on Ebay? The shipping is $150 and they are anywhere from $270 to $300 for the fenders and in both cases they look like they have dents in them.
The only reason I am considering cutting my own is because I already have them and they don't have dents on them. Painting isn't that big of a factor because I'm getting so much painted at once, it's probably more economical to have lots of little stuf painted all at once rather than sending things in one at a time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren's 01 SH
Nice build man, I'm planning on making a custom triple or quadruple dash gauge pod in the near future but mine is going to be fiberglass and color and texture matched to blend in with the dash material. I do like the cf one too though.
If I can ask, what kind of plan do you have for matching the texture of the dash material? Since I'm not digging my carbon fiber as much anymore, I might be looking to refinish this piece but have my reservations about how closely I could match the texture and color of the dash with another product. I don't think just paint would do it but I was thinking maybe you know something I don't. Hit me back if you have some experience on this.
Any Australian wrecker since they are a standard part. Also Australian Honda/Prelude/Car sites (preludeaustralia, ozhonda, boostcruising) where sometimes there is a car being parted or JDM halfcuts, etc. Seen those turning lights pop up before too and with the AUD being so low there could be some good deals, although things like JDM half red dash's wouldn't really work.
i would just take the car to a body shop and give them the dimensions you want for the jdm sidemarkers. they could do that sooo much cheaper than getting real jdm fenders. a body shop should be able to cut into the fender without any problem.
Chances are if you're reading this thread, you've also stumbled upon my other thread titled "Rare JDM Door Sills are mine!" This is the pictures from that thread where you can see how the interior is coming.
And in preparation for the car show at the end of February, the exterior is going to get slightly redone and made up. Fresh paint will go on the rear lip, front fenders (where JDM side markers will soon go) as well as to paint these three new additions to the body...
Then the exterior should pretty much be done. Brian is currently making me some TSX retrofits inside of Depo-style headlights (and yes, a different set of eyelids will go on them) and I'll have the JDM driving (fog) lights and the really hard to find cornering lights as well as the side markers to complete the front end's lighting arrangement. And yes, I'll be swapping the front lip from my current bumper, that needs a touch up with paint as well.
These pictures of the completed car won't be ready until right before the show because I am still currently trying to find a reputable paint shop to undertake this.
Stay tuned for the trunk project where my trunk gets a somewhat "track" setup with an ESP 4 point strut bar and gets repainted as well to make the battery relocation kit fit in visibly. This should should really be a nice addition to the whole "maybe someday I'll take this thing to an autocross" theme.
i mounted mine in the center and had no idea i could mount it where you did. That's pretty cool. Did you have your relocation tray welded to that? I used the spare tire bolt hole for a bold to mount on and then used some kind of concrete repair stuff (from a tube that looks like caulk) to seal it on the floor tightly. It's worked for months so I'm pretty sure it's strong enough.
Yea i had my co-worker at honda weld the factory battery tray to the trunk. I did this cause the folks at autocross were *****ing about how it wasn't "tied down by metal".
Just a quick update... Today I am home for the day and tomorrow I leave for about 6 weeks so I figured I would put on the ExplicitSpeed 4 Point Bar today, thinking it would be a really quick install. I was wrong because I lifted the car up too high and when that happened, the coilovers dropped below the holes and then I had to take off the rear wheels and use two smaller jacks to put under the brake rotors to slowly raise them back up and hold them in place to put the nuts back on. I went ahead and got some OEM shock nuts for the front and rear (actually, they're two separate part numbers from Honda). I was surprised by the amount of corrosion in the trunk here and there, but I will try to take care of this when I spray my trunk myself two months from now.
A quick side note before my pictures come about, I have a Taylor Battery Relocation kit that I've struggled to get right but I noticed that this battery tray is already corroded! It is about 6 months old and was covered with a rubberized type paint straight from the box but I was blown away that I'm going to have to replace it, it kinda makes me pissed off to tell you the truth.
But now on to the pictures...
Took out all the trunk carpet and bolts in the specified places...
Jacked up the center of the rear of the car...
Some new Honda shock-nuts...
Sizing up the ESP bar
Not sure if this is how it goes... but this is the only way I can think of I have the bar only attached to one of the coilover's bolts. Anybody have any advice on it?
Now all I have left to do is put the damn amp up on the back of the rear seat and get a new battery tray and weld it down.
Here's a little head's up on a little project I have in store for when I come back from California, I can't wait!
hey prepreludesh, thats pretty ironic that I see your electron blue side skirts cause I just bought a pair myself. let me guess thats the only color they had left. me too. wwrs side skirts blow nutz. By the way very nice lights but I have to agree on not putting the lids back on.
I know about the eyelids joe, but there is a terrible gap between the carbon fiber hood and the headlights. I would rather have something to cover it up than to see that gap. When I install these, I'll post some pictures up of the headlights without eyelids and the eyelids I plan on putting on (different style) and let everyone voice their opinions about which looks best.
But for now...
I figured I would post up some more pictures while I'm away from the car, not doing the upgrades I wanna. This is an interesting picture location if you've never been... It's the White Sands National Monument in New Mexico (closest town is Alamogordo). This is the world's largest white sand formation with 250 square miles of the stuff. Unlike the sand you see at a beach (quartz?) this stuff is from gypsum. The whole area underneath it is solid gypsum so as the winds shift the sand around and expose the "pillars" of gypsum, the sand will wear it away and add more white sand to the ever expanding area.
The consistency is just like (if not a little softer on the feet) of quartz sand and is like being in a totally different world. The car photographed pretty well against it for being white as well.
The pictures were taken during really interesting weather, where a sandstorm blew through followed by a large thunderstorm that produced multiple rainbows in different locations all over the place. The first picture is my favorite, but I should note they were all taken by my sister, who is also pictured. You can see her actually sledding down one of the huge hills of white sand that reacts pretty much like snow. It's an action shot, so you can actually see some of the stuff flying up as she takes a spill. If anyone wants to know anymore about this place, just ask! Otherwise, enjoy the pics!
Favorite Picture of the car...
It even coats the tirs like snow would... but no mess to clean up!
Sister takes a spill!
These mountains in the background are visible from miles and miles outside of the town of Alamogordo.
Here is what you get when the sand gets wet, it forms somewhat solid on the top and is powder underneath.
I also wanted to add as I was writing this, that although this place is in a really desolate location, that the backdrop is so perfect that I wonder who would be interested in having a Prelude Meet there sometime? The white background would look totally stunning in single pictures or group pictures. Could you imagine shooting a red or green or blue car against the white sand? I think it would look fantastic. Anybody be up for it in the forseeable future?
Dude... I could write the same story as you... In the Military AF here, but always buying parts when Im deployed, car is always having something done to it or broke Im constantly upgrading just about everything....
I noticed that my hood was in this thread, it cools the supercharger very well. It brings outside are inside the hood right over the supercharger. Before I had the hood I couldnt touch the SC after driving it, now I can put my hand and leave it on there after driving it. It really cools it down.
I will be headed out the door soon for Iraq, never been before (Ive always been deployed to all the cush assignments, Germany X2, California, Honduras) any advice for Iraq???
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PFI Sleeves, Eagle Rods, Arais pistons, Supertech Valve Springs, Supertech Retainers, JR Supercharger reworked by ENDYN, Ported intake Manifold, Ported "S" tube, Skunk 2 Throttle body, AEM CAI, Hytech Header w/3" collector, Custom 3" Exhaust, Meizer Electric Water pump, Hondata S300, MSD SCI-L ignition, MSD Blaster 2 coil, walbro 255 fuel pump, AEM fuel rail, 1000cc Precision Injectors, FJO Fuel Injector Driver, manual tranny swap, Quaife LSD, Motor Mount inserts, and a little nitrous.
Wow thanks Geramy, that means alot coming from you, the most impressive supercharger build in history, haha.
I believe you when you say your hood really does have a cooling effect on the supercharger. But unfortunately, is it bad to say that I don't like the styling of it? If there was a way to make it look more like the scoop of the old school WRX's I'd do it in a hearbeat, but I think too many people would judge it as non-functional... although that could be used to my advantage?
What I'd like to know is if you see your supercharger belt life's extending because of the increased cooling. I've never had a belt last me over 4000 miles (even the JR claims they should last 10k). I have not yet tried to the goodyear gatorback, because Pep Boys makes a belt that looks similar in every way to it (I'm talking about the grooves cut into it supposedly for increased cooling effect).
I also want to say that I believe I can get a little bit higher numbers once I switch to 10w-40 oil (I'm running 20w-50 right now due to what Honda Bob said the bearing clearances checked in at) and get my exhaust replaced fully. I'll be running 2.5" all the way through. And if I can put a fresh belt on, we'll see how it does with 8 to 9 psi.
I also want to ask about a theory I was reading about on a supercharger website that claimed that you must "sandblast" your pulleys for optimal grip (aka no slip) because a smooth surface is anti-friction which is what our little belt needs the most. Any thoughts on that as well?
And as for advice in Iraq, don't worry about a thing, air force bases have all the luxuries you need. You'll get hot showers every day, get better food in the DFAC than Soldiers (airmen?) eat in the States and get your laundry done and folded for free whenever you want. The heat only makes you hot if you're in direct sun (so shade is your friend) and your day is structured very nicely for you to get some maximum down-time for yourself. This is probably one of the reasons few people want to come back from Iraq, because you have everything made and done for you over there other than your job (but you don't have family unfortunetly). As much as the media says, it's not a bad gig.
I dont have the short belt anymore... well at least not a ribbed short belt. That is the belt that I have set up with the cogs. Its almost impossible for it to slip and because it is cogged its not required to be very tight. I used gator back belts before, they usually lasted around 6K miles before they would start to fray and I would replace them.
Before I went with the cog setup I was having all kind of slippage problems. We tried everything to correct the problem. Including taking the coating off the pulley. It didnt seem to help at all. Plus the pulleys are aluminum, so if you take the hard anodize off them they will start to wear and eventually "polish" themselves which will really make them slip!
The exhaust will really help. My friend Jason picked up about 8whp by switching to a custom 2.5" exhaust. He had a gutted cat, extra long 24" resonator and used an Apex-i muffler. Its nice and deep sounding.
If only I was deploying to an Air Force Base. I will be working with the Army, training the Iraqi military BMT. Thanks for the info, if you think of anything else let me know. gerald.kramer@usafa.af.mil
I planned on taking pictures of my car yesterday to post (I havent posted any in probably 4 years) but as usual things didnt fit correctly so Instead of putting on my OEM kit and installing my new seats I spent all day making new seat brackets. they should be getting welded up this week so hopefully this weekend I will get them in and get the car cleaned up some and post some new pictures.
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PFI Sleeves, Eagle Rods, Arais pistons, Supertech Valve Springs, Supertech Retainers, JR Supercharger reworked by ENDYN, Ported intake Manifold, Ported "S" tube, Skunk 2 Throttle body, AEM CAI, Hytech Header w/3" collector, Custom 3" Exhaust, Meizer Electric Water pump, Hondata S300, MSD SCI-L ignition, MSD Blaster 2 coil, walbro 255 fuel pump, AEM fuel rail, 1000cc Precision Injectors, FJO Fuel Injector Driver, manual tranny swap, Quaife LSD, Motor Mount inserts, and a little nitrous.
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I will be working with the Army, training the Iraqi military BMT. Thanks for the info, if you think of anything else let me know. 
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