NOS kit - Honda Prelude Forum

knightluder · 07-16-2002, 08:12 PM

Is the 05123 kit a wet or dry kit? The NOS website does not specify whether it is a 50 or 60 shot either? Where do I find this info and prices?

laughin2.2 · 07-16-2002, 11:02 PM

It is a dry kit. You change the size of the nitrous shot by putting in different sized jets into the vaccuum tube and the nitrous nozzle. The jets are about $8 a pop. The NOS dry kit that you are speaking of is good for a 50 to 75 shot.

red98lude · 07-17-2002, 12:28 AM

I got mine used but new it should run no more than $500. The kit includes everything you need and the 50, 60, and 70 shot pills.

knightluder · 07-17-2002, 02:04 AM

What is the code for a wet kit? I want to run a 60 shot so I figure a wet kit would be a wiser idea.

laughin2.2 · 07-17-2002, 09:26 AM

NOS doesn't make a wet kit. NX makes one or you can build your own wet kit from NOS parts.

knightluder · 07-17-2002, 10:33 AM

So can I just buy the dry kit from NOS and then purchase a fuel solenoid from NX? That would work wouldn't it?

SADWAP97 · 07-17-2002, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by knightluder
So can I just buy the dry kit from NOS and then purchase a fuel solenoid from NX? That would work wouldn't it?

yes, that would work. you can just buy a NOS fuel solenoid, rather than one from NX (since you're already using the NOS kit)

SK Honda 7 · 07-17-2002, 04:17 PM

Whats the price difference between the NOS and NX Wet kit. Also which one is more reliable and has good quality parts.

I know that NOS been in busines for a while but NX been around for a while too. Is going WET/DRY is simply a preference or is there a main difference.

laughin2.2 · 07-17-2002, 06:41 PM

I'd feel safe going with NX or NOS. NOS parts tend to be easier to find though. If you want to run a VAFC or an S-AFC get the wet kit. If you don't want to run one get the dry kit. Personally I like deciding exactly how much fule gets dumped into the engine with the nitrous so I would go wet. However wet kits are more of a headache to run and install than dry kits are.

knightluder · 07-17-2002, 07:20 PM

Would it be safer to run a wet kit for a 60 shot or should dry be safe enough. I'm just kind of worried about the whole safety issue of this nitrous thing seeing as I have 130k mi on my car. Is that alot for nitrous? The guy with the nsx had 170k mi and was still running nitrous. Granted he did have a built engine too. If I wanted to beef up my engine for nitrous all I would need would be low compression forged pistons and forged rods right? That should be enough to hold even a hundred shot because all of the stress is caused by the nitrous within the cylinder.

laughin2.2 · 07-17-2002, 10:52 PM

Dry is fine. Do a compression test on your motor. if the numbers turn out ok then put on the nitrous. If you have forged internals I'd run nothing less than a 125 shot. It would be a waste to run anything less. The stock bottom end is perfect fine up to a 75 shot. I plan on pushing it a bit and will run a 100 shot.

knightluder · 07-18-2002, 03:36 AM

So when you say forged internals is that just the pistons and the rods or is ther more? Obviously I'll probably need a larger fuel pump and maybe jnmm to control the wheelspin but other than that I'm good right? I'm just trying to figure out the costs if I did have to build my engine for nitrous. If I did build it I would probably only go with a 75 dp kit. But back to the question; all I need is forged rods and pistons to ensure safety for high end nitrous correct? No cams, sleeving block, cranks, etc..?

laughin2.2 · 07-18-2002, 11:16 AM

You don't need a fuel pump unless your stock one isn't flowing as much fuel as it used to, or if you are spraying over a 75 shot. When I say forged internals i just mean rods and pistons. However many people believe that you have to resleeve the block on an H22 in order for it to accept forged pistons without scarring the block. I'm not sure if it is the same for an H23.
You could run a 75 shot just fine on cast pistons. If you really want to use forged parts make sure that you get high compression so that you at least get some extra benefit out of them over stock.

knightluder · 07-18-2002, 02:35 PM

So could I get away with just replacing my stock pistons for some forged high compression ones? How much nitrous can my stock rods withstand comfortably? Thank you for all of your help the past few days laughin2.2; you've been awesome. I've learned alot so thanks again for all of your responses.

ps: I thought it was bad to use high compression pistons with nitrous. Do I just have to retard my timing a few degrees?

laughin2.2 · 07-19-2002, 02:30 AM

I think that all of the H series motors have to be resleeved to accept forged pistons without scarring the cylinder walls. The rods can handle a 75 shot fine, if not a 100 shot.
Nitrous likes high compression. Nitrous is not like turbo. The higher your compresssion is, the better your fuel tuning will have to be. You should still retard your timing according to the basic rule of 2 degrees per 50 shot. If you still had detonation then i would tell you to knock your timing back some more or get another step colder sparkplug.

knightluder · 07-19-2002, 10:14 PM

So should I even bother with new pistons and rods? Can I buy stronger pistons that won't scar the cylinder walls? What type of pistons would those be?

ps: I have a h23 w/130k mi and an intake.

laughin2.2 · 07-20-2002, 07:15 PM

If your compression is fine I wouldn't get new pistons and rods. I don't know of any pistons stronger than stock that aren't forged. If you only want to run a 50 shot cast pistons will be fine anyway.

Preyluder · 07-26-2002, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by laughin2.2
However wet kits are more of a headache to run than dry kits

What do you mean by that? How are they harder to "run?"