ludehawk

... sorry, had to get someone to look.


Ok, I have a NX wet kit w/purge at my disposal... It currently has a 75 pill.

Now, i've searched (like that works any more ) and there isn't really anything that answered my questions.

I currently have no A/F tuning done. Stock everything .. as far as fuel delivery is concerned.

Now, with that said. I have a Mallory Ignition/Coil setup. This has the window-switch option, retard on spray/boost... etc.

I know how to wire all of that up. Here are my questions...
on a 75-80 shot...

• what are the chances of leaning out enough to cause damage?
• what should my retard settings be?
• what would the optimal window switch settings be?
• with the retardation ( ) during spray set, would I need the colder plugs?
  <note: I only use 91-93octane, w/ access to 99 at regular price>

Those are my concerns pretty much...
I am still trying to understand how the fuel delivery will work, I guess I'm just thick-headed.

Please explain to me.. I am at your mercy.
I by no means have to install this, but in a way, you have to convince me too

TIA EVERYONE!!!

Also, I have access to the Gen x2 kit I believe it's called... that's the pressure sensitive/triggered blanket, guage, and bottle safety purge or whatever it's called.

Edited so list works lol

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Jay

Vapor

• what are the chances of leaning out enough to cause damage?

Better than if you were N/A. Sorry for the broad answer, but that's a pretty broad question. if it's a concern, throw it on a dyno. Its going to spray the same every time, so if its fine on the dyno, you're fine.

• what should my retard settings be?

2 degrees is where I'd start. But again, solved by the dyno.

• what would the optimal window switch settings be?

from 100 rpm before VTEC until 200 before fuel cutoff.

• with the retardation ( ) during spray set, would I need the colder plugs?

Might not be a bad idea, but every engine is different. Some people run 2 degrees and stock, and they're just fine. some people need the colder plugs. it varries from car to car, and its the reason you should pull your plugs and check them after spraying.



What do you not understand about it? I'm happy to help, but I guess I need specifics, you know?

ludehawk

ok, I understand that a dyno will help lol. I wasn't exact enough on my answer... I guess, i'm just trying to see if the prelude needs ANYTHING done to the fuel system to handle the shot. yes i've searched, but there isn't anything that states YES this is safe, instead I find, yes this works.... nothing else.

the reason for retarding is to prevent detonation, am I wrong?
how will a dyno session show detonation? are there any general math
rules for pump gas + CR + nitrous = retard ##??

well why wouldn't you spray in VTEC? Is there some rule? what if you launch in 2nd? I'm just trying to understand this Other than no traction and a seriously b!tchy clutch, is there a problem?

What would I see on the plugs if I wasn't detonating? nothing... so when can you tell it's overkill and not?

well, my question I guess is... what is the wet nozzles impact on the usual fuel system? How large of a pressure drop would I see. Just basics I guess... nitrous fuel 101...

sorry chad... I'm a no0b

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Jay

Vapor

I'd say it was safe. you're within the flow rates of the pump at stock pressure, so I don't think there'd be a problem. Some people upgrade the pump just because they like having a bit of room to grow, or a "cushion" if you will.

Yes, the reason you retard the timing is to decrease the chances of pre-ignition from increased cylinder head pressures at a different time frame of engine rotation in reference to TDC. you've got to move the combustion event away from TDC, so you retard the timing a bit. The rule of thumb I keep hearing is 2 degrees of timing per 50 hp.

a good tuner can see detonation on a dyno. it produces a jagged power curve, and you can also monitor your knock sensor.

I jsut gave those window numbers as where I'd set it. obviously the high number is to prevent engine damage from hitting fuel cutoff (Don't do that, its bad.) The lower number is fairly arbitrary. You don't want to spray TOO low (below 3000? The kit instructions will give you a no-go RPM usually) as there is increased engine load. its just not optimal for engine health IMO.

You're correct, there'd be nothing on your plugs if you weren't detonating. you could still read rich or lean though. and if they're not showing little metal specs on them, you're not detonating, so what's to worry about.

and I don't think the impact on fuel pressure is really that large, you'd have to take a look at the size of the restrictor pill to see why. I don't think its anything the fuel pump would lose pressure over. and if it does, that's the beauty of a wet kit. just change to a different pill.

axion68

well, here are my settings. I don't have any dyno tuning, but I have not seen signs of detonation and feel it is a safe setup.

NX 75 Shot

Window Switch - 2300 RPM for the low setting and 7500 for the high setting (I've got an SS so I set the nitrous to spray 100 rpm after the tq converter locks up. You shouldn't be ubber concerned with the low setting on a 5 speed, just make sure you have it set at 2300 or higher)

Retard - 4 Degrees

Plugs - 1 step colder NGK BKR plugs

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wreckdiver

I had similar setting with my NOSwet kit on my SS. I kept stock plugs, retard of 4 degrees, 2500 in, 7500 out. Had not trouble with detonation, but traction was absolutely worthless with that big of shot on the SS.

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