another great nitrous ignition is the Mallory Hyfire 685, since it has automatic timing retard, window swith, high rpm rev limiter and a launching rev limiter. as for the DC header, save your money and run the stocker. the only benefit of a DC header is it looks decent.
I have heard that about the dc sports header many times before this.......
Now that ignition sounds great and if the price is right I'll go for it.
Honestly I think there is no point to changing the fuel pump, considering I am doing a 75 shot.
I guess I could check my oem pump out and maybe get new injectors, fuel filter to make sure my fuel system is up and running good. Maybe I should spend the money on a Apexi VAFC instead of a fuel pump, not sure though.
So we are left at the following:
*ingalls camber kit front
*2.25" Custom Cat-back Exhaust
*Free Flowing Cat (any recommendations here, welcome)
*AEM Tru-Power Pulleys
*Apexi V-AFC
*20923-10 NX stage 1 efi w/ 10lb bottle
*GENX-2 NX Gen-x 2 upgrade
*Fuel / Nitrous Pressure gauges
*AEM high-volume Fuel Filter
*Mallory Hyfire 685 ignition
*AEM Fuel Rail
*AEM FPR
*Injectors (maybe, they would be a little over stock)
*BFG Drag Radials w/ weld racing rims 16" for fronts
*Stock's for rears
*Tokicko illuminas
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Close to the Orlando, FL area!?
Skip the bigger injectors and fuel filter unless they are in need of maintenance. If you are worried about your injectors in general have them sent off to RC.
oh yea, what do they do there? I am assuming they just clean them, right?
Oh and about my fuel filter, I have about 76800 miles and never changed to my knowledge and I have always put in 93 premium gas so............
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Close to the Orlando, FL area!?
So you dont think a direct port kit is worth it for only a 75 or less. Isnt it alot safer on the #4 piston. I ask this because I will be running like a 65 on my 11:1 fully built h23vtec.
I got ahold of one of the nos prototype kits!!!!!!
If you mean the NOSzles kit, then I'd say call up NOS first and ask them. I'd feel safer jetting a 65 shot rich and running it through a single fogger kit than dealing with those tiny jets in a direct port kit.
I mean a direct port kit sounds like it might be safer, and offer a more efficient set-up ,but not entirely neccessary when your going to be running a 75 or less shot. In my opinion, there is a reason you can only go as high as a 75 shot on a single nozzle kit, because these companies want to make money and not lose favor by blowing all these peoples motors. Personally, I don't plan on spraying but 1-3 times a month, so........ Except the first month I get it.......hee hee hee, I can't wait..............
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Close to the Orlando, FL area!?
yeah I just worry that with a slitly high comp motor (11:1) that I will burn up the #4 piston faster than the others. Not burn up but build up more carbon hence raising the comp even more in that cylinder.
I just want to know if it will be that bad, or if I just put the nozzle further back in the intake. Wet setup of course!
If you are worried about it run an 80 shot via direct port and get a good inline nitrous filter and a good fuel filter. Or you could look into getting your intake manifold ported and see how well each runner flows. It might turn out to be close to equal.
The fuel may be heavy, but its got the suction of the motor and 1000 psi of nitrous pushing it towards the IM, so its going there regardless. I mounted mine (fogger) dead center in my AEM intake, about 18 inches from the TB. And it didnt hurt anything at all. My pistons looked perfect when I pulled it apart
Hey laughin' 2.2 do you have a how to on removing your pistons and doing work on engine internals. I'd like to get build a n/a bottle fed beast but I don't want to pay out the a$$ on labor doing such work. Do you know where I could learn how to do it, and what tools I need and such. Thanks........
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Close to the Orlando, FL area!?
First, buy a longblock H22($1100), an engine stand ($50), and a Helm's manual($60). Get all of the parts that you are going to need to rebuild the motor, then start taking it apart slowly and carefully. Bag up every nut and bolt and label them. Once you get it all apart check the specs on the bore, clearances, etc. If everything checks out put it back together with the new parts. If it doesn't check out, it's time to go to the machine shop.
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