Just cause your motors built doesn't mean you won't blow up or have any problems, my motor was and a vaccum line came off my FPR and caused the car to go straight lean and boom.
well im talking more down the lines of proper tuning...im not talking about human error...
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My setup has about $13,000 in it and it's fully prepped built motor, and a 60-1 turbo. Makes 328 HP @ 9 PSI so I'd say if you get #'s like myne 9 psi is plenty for the streets, and you can do maybe 12 psi at the track to keep it on the safe side.
I've put 17,000km on my JRSC'd motor. I've been running the JR EMS and BTM right in the middle of min and max. I only run Sunoco 94 octane. Also I have a J&S to protect things.
don't apply for "not blown" status if a) you don't have a a turbo or supercharger or b) you have a turbo or supercharger but for less than 3 months/3000 miles.
Well i was already on this list , cause i blew it up, so i built the motor and now you can chalk me up on there again, 2.3 GE sleeved block, crower rods, arias pistons, arp head and mains.
I leaned out and blew the piston, broke a 1 1/2 inch section all the way to the first compression ring
MY car was working perfect at 10 psi since the begining of the season but it was drinking a lot of oil. I was not sure why but because performances were definitely there, I did not mind adding the necessary oil but damn, it was buring a lot of it!!! Not enough to see any smoke at the back though...
Recently, I made a too long ride without checking the oil. I think it went too low on oil. It started smoking and my J&S showed sever detonation under boost from that point.
I just opened the engine and guess what: the notorious #3 piston, because of the lack of oil, over heated and expanded enough to rub against the GE sleeve. Then, a slight amount of aluminum smeared into the oil ring groove, preventing it to seal. The compression rings where OK but both had the gap on top of each other, causing a small compression loss,which explains why the compression was 170-170-130-170.
Finally, the piston ca be repaired by remachining the groove and new rings will be installed. The sleeves can be salvaged by passing the stone in them. I'll throw in some ARP head studs as well.. It's a cheap repair finally. It only costs the head gasket and a set of hastings rings...
Let's hope oil consumption will be back to normal now...
Originally posted by achemze just to clear this up, i had no FMU inplace after the install. So my first good run or so sucked. I took it back and they 'tested it'. unplugged the 'wastegate' because they 'couldnt find out why it wouldnt boost higher' and took it for a 10psi ring busting, moment. patched me all up and sent me him ... to post here to find out i had busted rings. just for the record
MOTORSPORT TECHNIQUE =
and for some more clarity, i busted 3 rings into atleast 3 or more pieces.
what kind of setup did you buy from them or did they just do the install?
"took it for a 10psi ring busting, moment. patched me all up and sent me him ... to post here to find out i had busted rings."
please clarify, they replaced the ring without asking you and then it blew?
ok, here goes again for the 3rd time, h23, sleeved, arias 8.5:1 pistons, crower rods, arp main and head studs, stock head, with a f-max kit, honda s200, delphi 75lb injectors, 7psi. ON THE DYNO!
Got the based map, and was just starting to increase the boost. got out 4 pulls at 7psi made 220hp and 210tq at 5800, was not even running to redline. A/f was at a 12.0-12.2 under boost, absolutely no signs of detonation on plugs, but broke an upper ringland in #2, ejected the piece out the cylinder and jammed in the turbine wheel.
I think Arias pistons are now crap, either i got a ****ty batch or they are just not that great on honda's. Anyone else had problems with arias?
Put me on the not blown list:
JRSC kit @6psi
J&S ultraSafeguard v2
VAFC, 440cc inj
stock internals
1.2 years 20,000+ miles
tuned by PAC+added vafc,440s(local shop in Denver) for the last 5,000 miles
the j&s has only been there the last 10000
before that untuned
so far so good, reached the 6k mile mark, only thing ive noticed is a little smoke some times.... but i think that was cuz some bolts came off from where the downpipe bolts up to the manifold and i had a scare the other day, the little tee for the vacuum to the fmu and my boost gauge melted and i was wondering why my boost gauge wasnt working.. whew glad i caugh that.
H23 130k miles now!!
drag gen 4 kit 5psi(untill i get a clutch and boost controller)
basically stock... and not really tuned
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new car 06 silverstone s2k , my baby
Last edited by ludegirl96 : 10-30-2003 at 10:19 PM.
ludegirl1004 6psi, jrsc, jr ems, stock internals; doing fine now for ~7K miles
Not sure of how relavent this is, but currently I also have the following mods:
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Kamikaze Header
Carsound High Flow Cat
Mugen Exhaust
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
MSD 6AL Ignition Box
MSD Blaster SS Coil
AEM Underdrive Pulleys (Alternator, no power steering)
Pure Racing Adjustable Short Shifter
__________________ Lisa
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Originally posted by Greek Lude What ever happened to one of the first PO.com JRSC ludes? iranman. Were is he at now? Whats the deal. Does he still have the car? Still running fine?
Originally posted by LuDeGirL1004 I guess you can add me...
ludegirl1004 6psi, jrsc, jr ems, stock internals; doing fine now for ~7K miles
Not sure of how relavent this is, but currently I also have the following mods:
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Kamikaze Header
Carsound High Flow Cat
Mugen Exhaust
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
MSD 6AL Ignition Box
MSD Blaster SS Coil
AEM Underdrive Pulleys (Alternator, no power steering)
Pure Racing Adjustable Short Shifter
What kind of power are you putting down to the wheels?
__________________ Medium Scott - XBox GT: derech0 - 2005 PPW Track Model: 52k Miles - Purchased 6.16.2005 (Hibernating)
Mods: Falken|JWT|Kenwood|MotorDyne|Nismo|Sparco|UR|Work Emotion Tracks run: Beaver Run (PA), Gateway Int'l (MO), Talladega Grand Prix (AL), Nelson-Ledges (OH)
and i had a scare the other day, the little tee for the vacuum to the fmu and my boost gauge melted and i was wondering why my boost gauge wasnt working.. whew glad i caugh that.
