This might raise some flag, but here we go. I have an H23 engine that I'm preping for a turbo set up. I am contemplating whether to get a VTEC head or not. I would like some opinions from all of you before I go ahead. Thanks for stopping by.
Some people may say its not worth the trouble, or why not just turn up the boost.... I feel well why not make the most power possible at any boost setting... so why should you run higher boost if you can make just as much if not more power at lower boost.
I dunno kinda related to the cr question run lower compression and run more boost or run higher compression and lower boost??
Thanks fellas for your opinions, specially TurboH22. You are right, I should probably just boost the H23. 300 HP at the wheels shouldn't be that hard to achive right, on a custom set up, T3/T60 HiFI. Damn, that would be more than twice what I have now, F22A1 . Thanks for all the advice as well TurboH22 in the past. Keep posting!!!
So does vtec work better with turbos, even though the compression is higher on the H22 than the H23?
I have a H23 automatic right now, and I want to make it manual, but I dont know if it would be better to get the vtec swap or just buy a manual and install a turbo kit. If I do the swap I get all the parts I need like the tranny with lsd ($300extra) both axels for a manual, ecu, and ect.. If I want to be a H23 turbo i still need to buy the axels, manual H23 camshafts (because they are different in manuals than the automatics), and manual ecu. Also I heard that USDM trannys have better gear ratios than JDM.
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Originally posted by schwett getting 300whp at the wheels is gonna take about 15 psi on your H23... serious.boost.land.
what are you planning? sounds like you are spending enough dough to go ahead and get the (much) better flowing h22 head.
15 psi to make 300 HP with H23s??? Really, that's a lot of boost, isn't TurboH22 running 328 HP at only 9 psi??? And GudeH23A is putting out 350 HP, but I don't know at what psi??? Well, I am going with forged internals, 9:1 pistons,750 cc injectors or so, Hondata ECU and so on. And like I already said maybe a T3/T60 HiFI turbo. So, do I still need 15 psi of boost to make at least 300???
gude is running about 12-15ish if I remember right. You'll need a built motor to hit your 300 WHP mark, and after that with the right turbo picked you can get there with about 12 PSI or so I would think.
if turbing h22 make sure its the h22a1 not the newer h22a4, i dont have time to explain but a1's are closed deck but the a4's are open deck, the open deck flows better but cant handle as much boost as a closed deck could. there are prolly other posts about this somewhere.
Originally posted by eahillen if turbing h22 make sure its the h22a1 not the newer h22a4, i dont have time to explain but a1's are closed deck but the a4's are open deck, the open deck flows better but cant handle as much boost as a closed deck could. there are prolly other posts about this somewhere.
umm, yeah, other posts by people with time to explain.
the issue of open deck vs closed deck is really moot, because the stock pistons are going to fail LONG before you get any problems to the less-stiff open deck of the h22a4. anyone running a lot of boost is going to have to sleeve the block, at which point the preferred solution is actually something like golden eagle's braced sleeves. more conventional sleeves like darton will leave you with a closed deck regardless of which motor you started with, so again it doesn't matter.
I have looked into this briefly for my h23 turbo project and what I came up with, was that it would be more beneficial to just get the h23 head with PnP, and replaceing the valvetrain if necessary. IMO, it's not worth the adding the possible maintenence problem of an h23vtec. Just my .02
BTW, Gude is now putting down 423whp and 360ft lbs torque. This is on 20psi running a Precision SC61. He has had headwork done.
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Originally posted by schwett
at which point the preferred solution is actually something like golden eagle's braced sleeves. more conventional sleeves like darton will leave you with a closed deck regardless of which motor you started with, so again it doesn't matter.
How will darton leave you with a closed deck? Their sleeves keep the h22a4 open deck, unless you mean the MID kit.
How good are golden eagle's braced sleeves? I'm planning on running a full bar on the h22a4. I was going to go with the darton MID kit and ... gues what... big-ass back order. So i'm looking into other options.
Any help is apreciated. Thanks
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Originally posted by nuro How good are golden eagle's braced sleeves? I'm planning on running a full bar on the h22a4. I was going to go with the darton MID kit and ... gues what... big-ass back order. So i'm looking into other options.
personally, i wouldn't close up the deck. not only are those braced sleeves strong enough to hold a hell of a lot more than 1 bar, the cooling properties ought to be vastly superior.
personally, i wouldn't close up the deck. not only are those braced sleeves strong enough to hold a hell of a lot more than 1 bar, the cooling properties ought to be vastly superior.
thats good info. who makes those braced sleeves? i take it its more than just a simple block guard.
FYI (i'm not sure if you're aware of this or not) the darton MID kit only closes the top of the sleeve to the block. underneath that closed deck appearance, its still all open. Does this change your opinion on anything?
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I speak fluent typo
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. Thanks for all the advice as well TurboH22 in the past. Keep posting!!!
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