I have a 92 prelude Si, I want to turbo it...
What troubles would I run into if I turboed it as is..
like the title says forged internals..
i had the motor rebuilt. forged pistons, rods, ect ect.
the only thing i heard was sleeves.. would i be able to run like 14-17 lbs a boost without resleeving it?
and if i dont resleeve it whats the lowest safest amount of boost i can run?
Oh boy, here we go again. This topic comes up everyday. I've read around on these boards and most are saying that if you use forged internals then you need to resleeve due to the material of the existing OEM sleeves (alluminum alloy?) which are coated with FRM (Fiber Reinforced Metal). Forged pistons are steel which do not go well against alluminum, the steel will flake off the alluminum, and therefore you need steel pistons against steel sleeves, that's what I get from reading about this topic. I'm already afraid to run low boost cause she might blow.
I dont understand you newbies. If you're gonna spend $1500 to build your bottom end, when not spend and extra $3-400 to ensure it's done right? If you wanna save money during a build and take shortcuts, they are gonna eventually come back and bite you in the ass.
If you are thinking about building and you are looking at the cheapest way possible, you don't need to build. Quality parts and good labor cost money.
I think I know why people don't want to resleeve, it isn't really the money issue, it's the time. They only got one car, one block. Sending the block out to get resleeved means down time and unable to drive to work/school. Installing forged internals is faster and doesn't require 2-3 weeks of downtime. I had this same dilemna and that's why I'm waiting to get a second car (2011 S2k) before I install the turbo on the lude. The other option that I thought about is to buy another block and resleeve that while still being able to drive, then perhaps sell the old block after installing the sleeved one. Anyone have a good condition H22A1 block for me?
I think I know why people don't want to resleeve, it isn't really the money issue, it's the time. They only got one car, one block. Sending the block out to get resleeved means down time and unable to drive to work/school. Installing forged internals is faster and doesn't require 2-3 weeks of downtime. I had this same dilemna and that's why I'm waiting to get a second car (2011 S2k) before I install the turbo on the lude. The other option that I thought about is to buy another block and resleeve that while still being able to drive, then perhaps sell the old block after installing the sleeved one. Anyone have a good condition H22A1 block for me?
10-15 days. They also offer an express service that they'll sleeve and deck your block in 5 days.
There is no question, if you are building your bottom end you HAVE to resleeve. If you can't afford that part then save your money. There's no need in being frugal in a turbo build. Even if you dont build your bottom end, a turbo build is gonna cost you $4k easy, if it's done right, which also includes an ECU and dyno time to make sure its running safely and efficiently.
Oh boy, here we go again. This topic comes up everyday. I've read around on these boards and most are saying that if you use forged internals then you need to resleeve due to the material of the existing OEM sleeves (alluminum alloy?) which are coated with FRM (Fiber Reinforced Metal). Forged pistons are steel which do not go well against alluminum, the steel will flake off the alluminum, and therefore you need steel pistons against steel sleeves, that's what I get from reading about this topic. I'm already afraid to run low boost cause she might blow.
The forged pistons you're talking about aren't made from steel, they're made from aluminum still. And the sleeves you're talking about aren't steel, they're iron. Although you might fight that steel is made from iron, the two have vastly different thermal properties (hence expansion rates) and different molecular properties which shouldn't be mixed up.
And Mahle is the only company i know that makes a FORGED piston that is compatible with FRM sleeves, however, the simple nature of FRM sleeves still means boost, at any level, is still at risk for melting your rings and causing damage to your sleeves/pistons. As for rods, you can use whatever you want, just make sure you get rods made for boost and not high-revving lightweight N/A Application ones.
Rayslude was right when he said that if you are considering cutting corners due to cost, you probably shouldn't get into the boost game after all. Do it right the first time and you'll save yourself a world of hurt and disappointment in the future.
Also, I have a Golden Eagle block that is perfect for the boost I'm running and well beyond. I recommend them because their in-house machining seems to be more accurate and well-recorded than those of Dart Sleeves which will sell you the sleeves if you want and you find somebody else to put them in. The error factor goes way up in my opinion.
I'm wondering how stable your turbo's are running and if you guys use it as a daily driver. I think I need a second car before I start playing with this one unless someone has a block they want to sell me or know where I can get one, hint hint.
yea i used to think i could get turbo kit then im done. apparently not, if i want it to last and everything. but its worth the money if its your desire or passion
I'm wondering how stable your turbo's are running and if you guys use it as a daily driver. I think I need a second car before I start playing with this one unless someone has a block they want to sell me or know where I can get one, hint hint.
My lude was daily driven while i had it. I have a heavy foot and was addicted to boost so I was visiting the pumps 1.5-2 times a week. A month later I bought my maxima. The only way id tell you to boost is first off, make sure your motor is mechanically sound, check compression, set aside ~$4k because doing it right and buying a little piece here and there add up, GET IT TUNED. If you follow this simple process, you'll be able to use your turbo'd lude as a DD.
I think I know why people don't want to resleeve, it isn't really the money issue, it's the time. They only got one car, one block. Sending the block out to get resleeved means down time and unable to drive to work/school. Installing forged internals is faster and doesn't require 2-3 weeks of downtime. I had this same dilemna and that's why I'm waiting to get a second car (2011 S2k) before I install the turbo on the lude. The other option that I thought about is to buy another block and resleeve that while still being able to drive, then perhaps sell the old block after installing the sleeved one. Anyone have a good condition H22A1 block for me?
Darton sleeves and a local machine shop with some skill = $400 and 5 days of down time. If you are worried about down time then buy another car. It will be better in the long run because even the most well done cars have issues from time to time.
I know a guy who had darton sleeves put into his block by a machine shop in town. 9 months later and he still hasn't got his block back. Remember, you're going to run the risk of waiting a tremendously long time for work to get completed by a machine shop who claims they can do it, but might just be using your motor as a "guinea pig" because they've never done it before.
Always get a guarantee on the work and timeline for completing your motor if you're going to get it sleeved. Don't be like that guy and not have a car.
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