well this is where i am going to catch hell but i am using an aem f/ic but also the boost wont stay steady i need an electronic boost controller here is a screen shot of a data log
remember this is just a sample log of what my boost is doing
1) New ECU (I recommend Hondata S200b or S300 with a p28 or p72)
2) New Boost controller (I had a Hallman Manual boost controller that worked great!)
3) New Turbo (maybe a Precision SC61 or similar)
4) Most importantly...a new tuner. Look at your A/F ratio, it should be smooth, not comparable to the rocky mountains!! Also, 10psi and 235hp is weak IMO. You should definitely be making more.
i said that was a sample log not my tune and also that screen shot is zoomed in so .1 afr shows as a huge hump and what does a standalone do that my fic cant?
rayslude is right. i would definitely get a different turbo... from what i see the compressor housing is tiny. looks like a turbonetics one??? and that manifold you have is going to hurt you if you go up in boost. honestly i would go w/ a better manifold. you dont have to spend a fortune either. spoolinperformance.com has a quick 4 manifold. made a huge difference w/ my setup. i had to change the downpipe to the otherside of what yours is and the turbo sits lower, so you would have to half size radiator...but at 13psi i make 331 to the wheels. that is good enough for me anyways.
well until next summer... my goal is 400- w/ a bb gt35r turbo.
i said that was a sample log not my tune and also that screen shot is zoomed in so .1 afr shows as a huge hump and what does a standalone do that my fic cant?
that could be it, but i've heard that those turbonetics WG's fail quite a bit, that's why everyone uses Tial now... You could probably find a decent used one for $125
it's all about tuning. You need to invest in a new ecu asap. At 10 psi you should be well above the numbers you are making. Your a/f ratio is all over the map. The manifold is fine but you definately need a tial wastegate. Your setup has a lot of potential but it needs wg, ecu and a tune.
1. Have you adjusted your timing for boost?
2. 11.xx is too low of an A/FR. Beyond your peak power ratio the extra fuel actually cools combustion which results in less power. Also possibilty of cylinder wash and worse gas mileage/extra emissions.
3. The boost fluttering on your map. That is normal. Everytime it dips down is when a cylinder is pulling air in, and since the exhaust valve is still open a bit while this happens, it causes a momentary loss in pressure.
4. Looking at your dyno plot. If you are not intercooled (some drag kits arent), heat is probably where you are losing some power. Honestly, i am kinda with the other guys. Either your turbo is too small, which it might possibly be. Or my theory based on lack of information is something wrong with the flow in your exhaust. Either the cat is plugged or too small of piping, etc. Cause look at the dyno. You hit 4500 and youre at peak torque, 5200 vtec kicks in and you get a pinch more torque, but the quickly falls on its face. Which leads me to believe that the engine is not getting rid of the exhaust fast enough. If the turbo was surging, I THINK would see it on the engine load map as a downward spike.
As for the broken wastegate: If the diaphram was leaking enough to cause a problem, you would have boost creep which i dont see from your engine load map.
it's all about tuning. You need to invest in a new ecu asap. At 10 psi you should be well above the numbers you are making. Your a/f ratio is all over the map. The manifold is fine but you definately need a tial wastegate. Your setup has a lot of potential but it needs wg, ecu and a tune.
i agree...
My buddy has 273 whp on 9psi on his lude
