OutOfRiceRyan

I recently bought a JRSC and had it put on my 2000 honda prelude SH with an AEM v2 intake optima redtop battery, tanabe exhaust and weapon r headers- soon to be replaced by kakikazezs. There is nothing in the way of tuning yet and im set at 9 clicks on the btc. I am getting a AEM F/IC too tune with soon. My question is, i get a loud high pitched whistling sound whenever i boost. The car bogs down under any boost below 5 psi once i hit 5 psi its like something switches over and the car hops forward and i have boost and no bogging. The pedal and wheel have a bad vibration that feels like its coming from the engine whenever im going over 3.5K rpms. Everything is hooked up right to the best of my knowledge, are these things that would say i have a bad tune and need a tune or was there somehting not intalled correctly? I also threw a EGR insufficient lift code just coasting down a hill. Whats that about. The car also jumps back and forth whenever WOT almost like the blower is engaging and disengaging. I can't seem to keep a smooth conssitent power curve at any rpm under any boost? Everyone just tells me oh well i dunno whats wrong with it, send it back to jackson, even the mechanics who installled it told me that. Does it sound like something fixable with a tune or is something defective thanks in advance for any help because i am not getting it anywhere else.

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contractkiller

sounds like it had to do with the egr code, mine did this and im not even boosted so dont worrk about problems with the sc, just do this DIY Slide hammer for EGR port cleaning w/ pics - Preludepower.com

OutOfRiceRyan

I actually got a whole new EGR cause the one that was in there was in pretty bad shape. I installed it but i'm still having the same problem. Can anyone plzzz help me out. This is sad i have a supercharger and i can't even boost and i barely have enough power to get up the 12% grade to my house. it's really deppressing lol. I know that the more i advance the boost on the BTC the better it feels and the theres less bogging but it doesn't completely go away. When ever i'm at WOT the car just lurches forward and back like im going over ice and then hit pavement, and it does it over and over again untill i take away all the boost, and whenever i boost below WOT the car boggs completely down and i lose spped and RPMs until i take it out of boost. Is this something that tuning will solve or is there something wrong. Thank you so much in advance if anyone can help me out.

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Creativity is the result of boredom

00CDMLUDER

U need a tune man. I ran my car for a while untuned and it started to act like that. Just get it tuned from a reputable shop and you'll feel the difference

Kool-Lude

If you're running the JR ems and related components...there is NO tuning.

1) Can you remove the JR ems, or is it permanently wired into your factory harness?
2) What gauges do you have, if any? VAFC? Static fuel pressure? Give details on your fuel pressure, map sensor, boost levels, etc.
3) BTC setting?...use clock settings to describe (ie. full retard is 7 o'clock, full advance is 5 o'clock, middle is 12)
4) Are you currently throwing codes?
5) What octane is your fuel?

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95ludersi

i had the same exact problem...try turning ur nob to the left a few clicks. she will open up. just dont hammer on it till u get it tuned but it will help it run a whole lot better. let me know if this helps. it did for me

whitealexander

ok im a little bit confuse why JRS dont need a tuning?

geramy

There are no adjustments to be made on the JR EMS. It is just a "piggy back" box with a basic tune programmed into it for any Prelude.

The best you can do is mess with the fuel pressure and adjust the BTC, nine clicks seems like a lot. I never had mine more than 3.

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ion_four

He's not saying it doesn't NEED tuning, he's saying it doesn't HAVE tuning.

The Jackson Racing fuel/ignition management is beyond basic, as compared to what is available, today.

To the OP:

Running REALLY rich, or having your timing way off can cause the car to lurch and act generally bat-s**t. You should at least throw a wideband oxygen sensor on there to see where your AFRs are sitting. That might lend a clue as to what is going on inside the engine.

If you think something is wrong with the supercharger (though I doubt there is), or you can't deal with the tuning right now, just take off the small belt from the supercharger and run without any boost. This would allow you to return to the stock fueling and ignition timing, for the time being! This won't damage the supercharger and will make only slightly less power than stock, in theory.