There is nothing to tune with the base kit. The kit comes with larger injectors and the Greddy "blue box", which takes care of fuel management. In what I have personally seen, it runs the setup very, very rich, 11:1 and richer. There is no timing retard device, meaning that the setup runs on stock ignition timing. I have seen the setup on a dyno, and it would experience detonation at 5000 rpm, the point where the stock ecu switches to the vtec ignition map, advancing timing 4-6 degrees. The small turbo that comes with the setup spools very quickly. I have seen the setup on an SS lude produce 200 ftlbs of torque at 2000 rpm. But the power and torque drop of after that very quickly, mostly because of how rich the setup runs, the small turbo, internal waste gate, and the very small downpipe, which is 2".
Overall, with the massive amount of low end torque, the SS Greddy turbo lude I have seen was very fun to ride in, and the owner loves driving it. I'm sure a manual setup would be even more fun.
A vafc would be useful for leaning out the a/f curve, and I think some sort of boost retard device is mandatory. An electronic boost controller would be a nice addition. Or you could forget all that, and either get the Greddy E-manage/E-01 combo, or some other sort of engine management.
__________________
Last edited by sharkcohen : 09-18-2003 at 11:32 AM.
WE'll if i were to find a good used kit, which im looking for right now, i likely would go stand alone. Prolly hondata, i could get my hands on a obd1 gsr ecu, and i could get hondata for a good price also. Theres also a very good tuner around my area to help me out. Im hoping if i can find this kit for a good price, to run like 10-11lbs at the track and 7-8 on the street.
Originally posted by sharkcohen A vafc would be useful for leaning out the a/f curve, and I think some sort of boost retard device is mandatory. An electronic boost controller would be a nice addition. Or you could forget all that, and either get the Greddy E-manage/E-01 combo, or some other sort of engine management.
do you suggest using the VAFC along with the "blue box" to lean out A/F curve, or as a hack and dumping the blue box? Is there an advantage or disadvantage with using one and not the other?
...i tried to search but didn't get too much info
__________________ "Idleness is the holiday of fools." "Evil is powerless when the good are unafraid"
-JAMES-
Last edited by LUDExCONDUCT : 09-18-2003 at 01:24 PM.
I was suggesting using a VAFC in conjunction with the blue box for fine tuning of the setup as an option. My ultimate recommendation is programmable engine management, such as Hondata or AEM EMS.
I've got the setup.
However I ditched the blue box and am using EFI PMS now.
It still spools quick and torque comes up strong.
However the top end doesn't feel as strong compare to the low end. It change the nature of the H22.
More tunning needs to be done as well. I may fix the issue with lack of top end shortly.
I would not add turbo to a non-turbo car again.
I love this car with the turbo but it is too much work.
The greddy kit's down pipe is too small. Fuel management is better than JRSC but still not as complete.
My advice, if you have a manual car. Go for the NA build up with cams, you will have a more free reving car.
If you have SS, don't worry about adding more power.
I personnaly will pick another turbo/awd car as my next ride.
If you still want to go the Greddy route. Be ready to have around $5k sitting around because you will spend more than the price of the kit. Also be ready to not be 100% running right till at least 3 month later.
But once you feel the boost, you will never go back.
Thanks for your input, because after i get the kit, im going to go hondata, and work out the fuel issues and timing crap right then and there. I plan on already making a 3inch exhaust along with a 3inch downpipe. After thati think im going to be smooth sailing from there.
The problem isn't just with the downpipe, but the flange on the turbo for the downpipe, which is also 2". You may find that the flange and not the downpipe is the bottleneck.
Seems like Greddy turbo kit is focusing in keep the low end ppwer rather than high end. Are you saying the hp/torque curve of Greddy is rather simliar to JRSC?
__________________
Major mods: Power TWM ITB/AEM EMS/RC440/JUN valvetrain/SMSP headerback/P&P head/GE sleeved/JE pistons/Ferrea Comp Plus/Eagle rods Stiff stuff TEIN Flex/ST sways/Harness bar/Spoon F&R/ESP traction Drivetrain Quaife LSD/JUN FWheel/Exedy organic/Lean SS Stoppers Spoon 4pot/AEM rotors/AEM pads Cooling C&R radiator/Hondata gasket/Mugen thermopack Others Place Racing mounts/HKS ground/Greddy catch can
ive got a 97 Turbo SS with the greddy kit and it produces great TQ in the low end (200 ft lbs @ 3000 rpms) . the hp number is also pretty good approx 200 WHP @ 6500 rpms.
the top end doesnt make as much TQ but if go into 4th fully boosted it should feel nice.
Originally posted by LVSBB6 Seems like Greddy turbo kit is focusing in keep the low end ppwer rather than high end. Are you saying the hp/torque curve of Greddy is rather simliar to JRSC?
No the torque curve looks nothing like a JRSC torque curve. It peaks around 2000-3000 rpm and then falls from there. The torque curve of a JRSC is very flat when things are working right.
I won't post the old dyno. So many things have changed since that last dyno.
Thanks to Shark, the car is running much better now.
I will post new dyno once the following parts are in.
1) new o2
2) new wideband
3) profec b
4) high flow cat
5) mugen radiator cat/thermostate/fan switch.
Once that is done, I will go dyno again and lean the car out to 12:1, currently it is around 11:1.
Then I will post a dyno for 8 PSI and maybe one for 10 PSI.
And yes torque is around 200 ft-lb at as low as 2500 RPM.
But then it falls off. boost falls off at higher RPMS. I will fix that will the profec b.
this kit does tend to make more tq than hp, the downpipe and the housing on the turbo is the main restriction with this turbo kit. however this kit can produce some decent numbers I just put down 330hp/ 358lb/tq and its only 80% tuned. Once i fully finish tuning i will post dyno and results guys.
As i dont own a greddy kit and started from a drag kit. My $0.02 is to PIECE YOUR OWN KIT TOGETHER, ESPECIALLY IF YOU DONT LIVE IN CALIFORNIA.
I've made more hp & tq out of my stock drag kit than i think you can produce out of a stock greddy kit.
Per preFkingLudeSi, he (VERY STOCK) raced a greddy turbo'd lude and he would get taken off the start of each gear,but he would side by side him again by the end of the gear.
Now, i can tell you from racing other preludes, that with a custom or slightly less restrictive kit like the drag (open-loop wastegate/bov/3" downpip) that na preludes dont catch up to me at any point in any gear, more so after tuning, but even with the initial bolt on.
So if its horsepower you want to make, and you dont mind a little extra noise to the tune of 20-40hp, DIY.
For a reference, my Drag2 kit spooled at 3500-4000rpms and would pull till red. and that was out of the box.
Paired with programmable engine management, I think that the Greddy kit is nice for a street car. My opinion, after having helped street and dyno tune 98SS's setup. And the 370 cc injectors that come with the Greddy kit seemed more than adequate.
Linear Mode
