some questions on my turbo build - Honda Prelude Forum

sameerb1 · 10-04-2011, 05:00 AM

i turbo'ed my 98 H22A about 6 months ago. the list of installs was:

.63AR 57Trim Ebay t3/t4 turbo
ebay turbo tubular manifold
35mm wastegate 6psi spring
tial copy bov
2.5" custom IC and piping
Neptune Management
ID725 injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Ebay Fuel Regulator (works good)
high profile spark plugs
custom 2.5" exhaust
t1 exhaust muffler
f1 stage 3 clutch and pressure plate
12lbs flywheel

I didnt do anything on the engine...no sleeves, pistons or anything else...The engine with turbo ran but clutch slipped in a couple of pulls so got a new f1 stage 3 clutch kit with 12lbs flywheel but the guys i repaired it with tried the car on WOT "to test clutch" which made my car smoke heavy. I suspect a ring land but then i took the car out, two three WOT pulls and the car does not start anymore. the crank moves, but engine is not starting. Thus i am thinking of ripping the engine apart and building a fresh engine. thinking of following:

8.5:1 Wiseco 89mm forged pistons
eagle rods
local custom sleeve job
port & polish head
70mm tb
skunk2 intake manifold

I am just stuck on the following:
springs, retainers - do i need new? if yes then OEM or some branded titanium etc?
valves - do i need new? if yes then OEM or some branded etc and do i need bigger size valves?
cams - do i need camshaft?
cam gears - do i need cam gears?
rod bearings - do i need to buy new rod bearings or my old will do the job?

HP goals? non...all i want is a prelude for weekends which pulls to a mustang or a camaro while i m cruising if i feel like playing

geramy · 10-06-2011, 08:53 AM

Springs/retainers - Upgrade
Valves - for your goal stock should be fine
cams - again for your goal I would say not needed
cam gears - '' ''
rod bearings - definitely replace

sameerb1 · 10-06-2011, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geramy

Springs/retainers - Upgrade
Valves - for your goal stock should be fine
cams - again for your goal I would say not needed
cam gears - '' ''
rod bearings - definitely replace

thank you for your reply. so its advised to upgrade springs and retainers?!

geramy · 10-06-2011, 09:32 AM

yeah I would at least do the springs and retainers

whatdaheo23 · 10-08-2011, 02:19 AM

And i would say no to the skunk2 intake manifold....reason is cause they have long runners which will cause you to lose low end and mid range HP... i regret my skunk2.... I should have bought a RBC IM with a adapter, i heard those get good power in a all motor, imagine on a IF build(if your talking about doing some pulls from them mustangs and camaros)

but your money so your call

sameerb1 · 10-09-2011, 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whatdaheo23

And i would say no to the skunk2 intake manifold....reason is cause they have long runners which will cause you to lose low end and mid range HP... i regret my skunk2.... I should have bought a RBC IM with a adapter, i heard those get good power in a all motor, imagine on a IF build(if your talking about doing some pulls from them mustangs and camaros)

but your money so your call

Money wouldnt be an issue but the problem is getting adapter and a new fuel rail and then if everything aligns...also i cant find anyone selling the whole kit...

JDMpreludeKing · 10-09-2011, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whatdaheo23

And i would say no to the skunk2 intake manifold....reason is cause they have long runners which will cause you to lose low end and mid range HP... i regret my skunk2.... I should have bought a RBC IM with a adapter, i heard those get good power in a all motor, imagine on a IF build(if your talking about doing some pulls from them mustangs and camaros)

but your money so your call

skunk2 pro manifolds dont lose power, they gain from 3k-8k(mid-High powerband) there is no lower range power tho. the only way you lose broadband power is not tuning matching afr or wrong size piping for turbo.

stay away from short runners they were only designed for engine swaps to a smaller chassis & they are the ones losing power mid to high

JDMpreludeKing · 10-09-2011, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sameerb1

i turbo'ed my 98 H22A about 6 months ago. the list of installs was:

.63AR 57Trim Ebay t3/t4 turbo
ebay turbo tubular manifold
35mm wastegate 6psi spring
tial copy bov
2.5" custom IC and piping
Neptune Management
ID725 injectors
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Ebay Fuel Regulator (works good)
high profile spark plugs
custom 2.5" exhaust
t1 exhaust muffler
f1 stage 3 clutch and pressure plate
12lbs flywheel

I didnt do anything on the engine...no sleeves, pistons or anything else...The engine with turbo ran but clutch slipped in a couple of pulls so got a new f1 stage 3 clutch kit with 12lbs flywheel but the guys i repaired it with tried the car on WOT "to test clutch" which made my car smoke heavy. I suspect a ring land but then i took the car out, two three WOT pulls and the car does not start anymore. the crank moves, but engine is not starting. Thus i am thinking of ripping the engine apart and building a fresh engine. thinking of following:

8.5:1 Wiseco 89mm forged pistons
eagle rods
local custom sleeve job
port & polish head
70mm tb
skunk2 intake manifold

I am just stuck on the following:
springs, retainers - do i need new? if yes then OEM or some branded titanium etc?
valves - do i need new? if yes then OEM or some branded etc and do i need bigger size valves?
cams - do i need camshaft?
cam gears - do i need cam gears?
rod bearings - do i need to buy new rod bearings or my old will do the job?

HP goals? non...all i want is a prelude for weekends which pulls to a mustang or a camaro while i m cruising if i feel like playing

your gunna need 3inch exhaust period for any turbo.

did the guy just install the clutch? did you get at least close to 750 miles to "breaking in the clutch"? pior before he went WOT?

whatdaheo23 · 10-10-2011, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDMpreludeKing

skunk2 pro manifolds dont lose power, they gain from 3k-8k(mid-High powerband) there is no lower range power tho. the only way you lose broadband power is not tuning matching afr or wrong size piping for turbo.

stay away from short runners they were only designed for engine swaps to a smaller chassis & they are the ones losing power mid to high

makes sense. but i seen it happen but i guess it depends on the set up and the tune (LIKE ALWAYS)

sameerb1 · 10-10-2011, 06:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDMpreludeKing

skunk2 pro manifolds dont lose power, they gain from 3k-8k(mid-High powerband) there is no lower range power tho. the only way you lose broadband power is not tuning matching afr or wrong size piping for turbo.

stay away from short runners they were only designed for engine swaps to a smaller chassis & they are the ones losing power mid to high

I still am very novice on runner sizes, but in essence you mean i wont lose power using skunk2 pro on h22a in prelude

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDMpreludeKing

your gunna need 3inch exhaust period for any turbo.

did the guy just install the clutch? did you get at least close to 750 miles to "breaking in the clutch"? pior before he went WOT?

that's a good and a new advice, first time i am hearing about the exhaust size of 3" because earlier i have been advised 2.5" and that's why i have a custom steel 2.5" on my prelude

Quote:

Originally Posted by whatdaheo23

makes sense. but i seen it happen but i guess it depends on the set up and the tune (LIKE ALWAYS)

And the tune...that's a major problem i have, but i hope my setup for 10psi on normal tune of trying to keep afr to 14~15 will be good

JDMpreludeKing · 10-10-2011, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sameerb1

I still am very novice on runner sizes, but in essence you mean i wont lose power using skunk2 pro on h22a in prelude

that's a good and a new advice, first time i am hearing about the exhaust size of 3" because earlier i have been advised 2.5" and that's why i have a custom steel 2.5" on my prelude

And the tune...that's a major problem i have, but i hope my setup for 10psi on normal tune of trying to keep afr to 14~15 will be good

no skunk2 you wont lose any power, work on your fuel system first before air upgrades because slapping on the turbo you get more air now you need more fuel because you will run super lean on 10psi.

do you have a uego windband? i prefer aem, 0.5v very accurate

id get 1000 or 1200cc rc or precision injectors
aem fuel rail
aem afpr
HP fuel filter
upgrade fuel line to 6an ss off filter to rail
walbro 255 hp lph

what is your whp goal first off?

plus what size turbo are you running now

n yes tuning is very important before going turbo on stock setup
do you already have an aftermarket ems ecu?

bouckarooo · 10-10-2011, 01:57 PM

The skunk2 intake manifold is better for boost than it is n/a.

sameerb1 · 10-11-2011, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDMpreludeKing

no skunk2 you wont lose any power, work on your fuel system first before air upgrades because slapping on the turbo you get more air now you need more fuel because you will run super lean on 10psi.

do you have a uego windband? i prefer aem, 0.5v very accurate

id get 1000 or 1200cc rc or precision injectors
aem fuel rail
aem afpr
HP fuel filter
upgrade fuel line to 6an ss off filter to rail
walbro 255 hp lph

what is your whp goal first off?

plus what size turbo are you running now

n yes tuning is very important before going turbo on stock setup
do you already have an aftermarket ems ecu?

For Fuel I have:

-ID725 injectors
-Innovate LM-2 as well as LC1
-Not changed the fuel filter, but i have heavy duty fuel filter...its really difficult to take the filter out so i just left it as it is
- Why do i need fuel line upgrade? I am not saying i wont or dont want to do it, but that's in the future, but just wondering what are the gains of fuel line upgrading?
- I have Walbro 255
- Turbo is 50trim .63AR T3T4
- Running the setup on Neptune RTP Demon

My HP Goal is on rolling, while cruising on the road, beating modified 5.0 mustang (2011+) or the LS7's etc...i think 350~400hp?

JDMpreludeKing · 10-14-2011, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sameerb1

For Fuel I have:

-ID725 injectors
-Innovate LM-2 as well as LC1
-Not changed the fuel filter, but i have heavy duty fuel filter...its really difficult to take the filter out so i just left it as it is
- Why do i need fuel line upgrade? I am not saying i wont or dont want to do it, but that's in the future, but just wondering what are the gains of fuel line upgrading?
- I have Walbro 255
- Turbo is 50trim .63AR T3T4
- Running the setup on Neptune RTP Demon

My HP Goal is on rolling, while cruising on the road, beating modified 5.0 mustang (2011+) or the LS7's etc...i think 350~400hp?

wow you got a pretty good tuning setup there bud(I've been think of changing to the Neptune Demon) alot more cool extras

upgrading fuel line helps the flow to the rail plus if yours is brittle under pressure could cause a fire hazard in the engine bay

JDMpreludeKing · 10-14-2011, 09:52 PM

a .62 A/R turbine and 57 trim would be better on stock setup.(spool quicker)

but your current should be fine hitting thoses numbers.

just watch your afr,up the boost, stay in the stoich area afr(middle) as possibly

if you start running lean methanol is a good friend

& if ya know how to work your neptune adj your maps timing & ignition

plus you might already be in that hp range now doesnt really take alot to get there

JDMpreludeKing · 10-14-2011, 10:02 PM

plus when turning up the boost, people say 10psi is the limit on stock...thats a lie, power is what Kills

ive been running a t3t4 63ar 57trim pushing 20psi making over 430whp but now since ill be running a borg s366 i could hit 430 around 7-10psi but mine is also not stock

just watch the afr & boost safely

sameerb1 · 10-16-2011, 01:41 AM

My t3/t4 is soon going to change once i blow it. after proper engine making and proper safe 20psi tune...my next will be a much better turbo...

hoping for the best...purchase of the below items on the 10th November 2011:

CP Pistons 9:1 comp 89mm
Eagle rods for H22A
Frea valves
supertech dual springs and ti retainers
local sleeves
comp head gasket
ACL rod bearings
ARP Studs for head

Not going to change the Main Bearings for the rods
Maybe will purchase fuel rail...will need to see how i am doing with money after the purchase of the previous items

JDMpreludeKing · 10-16-2011, 11:17 PM

stock is 10:1, go with 8:1 pistons be better with boost

if your going to build the block do it right and replace thoses main bearings.

get the crank resurfaced and edge aswell

you would be happy if you do no point of doing it twice

sameerb1 · 10-18-2011, 12:11 AM

^Just to make sure, what's re-surfacing crank and edges?

H22-Lude · 10-25-2011, 12:30 PM

Are you talking about knife edging and micropolishing?