i just installed boost and A/F gauges on my JRSD'd SH. i am quite proud of myself for it all working on the first try... although it did take forever and a reasonable amount of cursing.
at idle, the A/F either goes totally lean (is the sensor cooling off?) or it bounces from completely lean to slightly rich. while crusing at a steady speed, it bounces very fast from rich to lean (i assume this is the ECU in closed loop mode.)
when boosting, it goes several bars rich and stay there, very stead, all the way to redline.
the boost gauge reads solid vacuum most of the time, then jumps to 7 psi while boosting, through about 6500RPM and then it drops slowly to 6 or maybe 5.5 (hard to tell while flooring it!)
does this sound right to everyone? the fuel pressure gauge did not come in, so i'm not going to dial back the AFPR until i see what the pressures are - i'd rather run a bit rich than lean, unless the steady rich reading on the a/f gauge is a safe indication that i can lower fuel pressures.
thanks in advance everyone....
Originally posted by schwett i just installed boost and A/F gauges on my JRSD'd SH. i am quite proud of myself for it all working on the first try... although it did take forever and a reasonable amount of cursing.
Congrats.
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Originally posted by schwett at idle, the A/F either goes totally lean (is the sensor cooling off?) or it bounces from completely lean to slightly rich. while crusing at a steady speed, it bounces very fast from rich to lean (i assume this is the ECU in closed loop mode.)
when boosting, it goes several bars rich and stay there, very stead, all the way to redline.
That's normal. You now have witnessed the difference between Closed and Open loop operation modes.
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Originally posted by schwett the boost gauge reads solid vacuum most of the time, then jumps to 7 psi while boosting, through about 6500RPM and then it drops slowly to 6 or maybe 5.5 (hard to tell while flooring it!)
That's normal as well. The explanation in the drop in boost at higher rpms (specifically during vtec) involves the ability of the radical lobes to 'suck' in air much quicker than the normal lobes.
Remember now, our supercharger works only because it spins fast enough to force air into the engine quicker than the engine can take it in, resulting in positive pressure. Just because the boost is dropping doesn't mean the power is
One question, though, Schwett: does your A/F show as many bars during WOT as mine does? During idle/cruising, the gauge only shows one bar cycling back and forth. During WOT, it reads rich as normal, but instead of one light, there are 4-5. Check the videos to see what I mean.
no - during WOT or even just enough gas to get the boost up, there is one bar fully lit (three or four positions above the highest stoich led) and then the next bar up is very faintly lit. i've never seen it light up more than one at once!
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Originally posted by iranman
Congrats.
That's normal. You now have witnessed the difference between Closed and Open loop operation modes.
That's normal as well. The explanation in the drop in boost at higher rpms (specifically during vtec) involves the ability of the radical lobes to 'suck' in air much quicker than the normal lobes.
Remember now, our supercharger works only because it spins fast enough to force air into the engine quicker than the engine can take it in, resulting in positive pressure. Just because the boost is dropping doesn't mean the power is
One question, though, Schwett: does your A/F show as many bars during WOT as mine does? During idle/cruising, the gauge only shows one bar cycling back and forth. During WOT, it reads rich as normal, but instead of one light, there are 4-5. Check the videos to see what I mean.
after driving it at night, it definitely has more than one light on. in the daytime, i can only see one, but at night, it's a whole small pack of them, maybe 3-5...
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Originally posted by schwett no - during WOT or even just enough gas to get the boost up, there is one bar fully lit (three or four positions above the highest stoich led) and then the next bar up is very faintly lit. i've never seen it light up more than one at once!
well, it seems accurate enough to say "i'm running rich under boost," which is all i wanted it for. i will tweak my pressures a bit and see what happens with the A/F gauge. if you don't have some sort of aftermarket air/fuel reg, VAFC, etc, i can't see how it would be useful at all.
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Originally posted by TimeRacer In the end, would you still recommend getting an A/F gauge due to the fact that it's not very accurate? Would getting an EGT be better overall?
My plan right now is to just finish up with the current engine mods (intake, exhaust, V-AFC) and start prep (gauges, and other safety stuff) for a SC or turbo, though the all the internal engine work will be done before I buy the kit. Hopefully GReddy or Endyn will come out with something good by that point so I don't have loose my ATTS (or will Hondata save me? ). Just like buying stuff and doing it right the first time.
how come you're going to lose your ATTS? planning on putting down a LOT of power? if you go hondata, you're definitely going to lose your ATTS, because you need to swap your ECU to an OBDI ECU, and there are no OBDI ECUs that control the ATTS system.
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Originally posted by TimeRacer My plan right now is to just finish up with the current engine mods (intake, exhaust, V-AFC) and start prep (gauges, and other safety stuff) for a SC or turbo, though the all the internal engine work will be done before I buy the kit. Hopefully GReddy or Endyn will come out with something good by that point so I don't have loose my ATTS (or will Hondata save me? ). Just like buying stuff and doing it right the first time.
My A/F runs one to two bars lit, when boosting it is only one lit. The richest light on the gauge. Iranman my gauge looks nothing like yours when boosting. If I record it how hard is it to send you a video?
are you sure it's like that at nighttime too? i don't think you can see the more dimly lit panels in the day.
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Originally posted by chomorro My A/F runs one to two bars lit, when boosting it is only one lit. The richest light on the gauge. Iranman my gauge looks nothing like yours when boosting. If I record it how hard is it to send you a video?
Yeah mine light up like that at night also. Occasionally a bunch of lights will dim up for a split second, but thats it. Mine is tapped directly into the O2 sensor to the white wire right next to the oil filter. I was told this is the most accurate place for it, so maybe I am just reading so accurate that only a few led's light up.
Iranman I noticed that in your video when you let off the throttle you go all the way lean. Is that accurate because I thought your engine would cut out running that lean? My lowest only goes to the first led before stochi never lower
Originally posted by chomorro Yeah mine light up like that at night also. Occasionally a bunch of lights will dim up for a split second, but thats it. Mine is tapped directly into the O2 sensor to the white wire right next to the oil filter. I was told this is the most accurate place for it, so maybe I am just reading so accurate that only a few led's light up.
Iranman I noticed that in your video when you let off the throttle you go all the way lean. Is that accurate because I thought your engine would cut out running that lean? My lowest only goes to the first led before stochi never lower
Hmmm thats exactly how mine runs, I have heard other say thier's run like that too. I hope its hooked up right!
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