Hey folks, Im sure a few of you have seen some of my threads over in 5th gen. I am doing up my 2001 EBP with a JRSC. I have been running it stock now for a few(but now its garaged for winter)and it ran great. I will be taking it out 1 more time the first week n Dec. for a quick dyno test/tune. But have decided to go all out on a 2nd H22A4 block and head I picked up.
My original motor has an Injen shortram,DC SS header(which is being put up for sale due to lack of space for a 2nd Wideband o2 sensor),RT high flow cat and DC cat bakc exhaust. Ran great and had some nice top end gains.
But my 2nd project is also going to be a JRSC setup.
But there will be some "slight" mods
I want to get some opinions or suggestions too.
First will be the JRSC itself. This unit is gonna get sent out to E.N.D.Y.N for a makeover of the actual blower itself(which inlcudes reworking of the lobes,ceramic coated,ported etc and reworking of the JR intake manifold assembly. I will also get 2 new pulleys in the price $1500 roughly) so that the SC will be running at 12psi reliably.
2. Bottom end. Will be doing Arias 10:1 pistons, GE sleeves,Crower billet rods,crank polished,balanced, and shotpeened. blanacer shafts will remain in the block, but will be disconnected.
3. Head. Crower turbo camshaft, new valve seats(bronze?),titanium springs,retainers, crower valve stems(stock size), head will be milled, and ported and polished. Hondata gasket will be used on intake.
4. ECU. AEM EMS with wideband O2 sensor.
5. Fuel. JR pump, RCeng 440cc-550cc injectors.
6.Intake/exhaust: Modded Injen short ram,kamakazi header,3" high flo cat, cat back exhasut
Misc: AEM or UR pulleys, MSD coil,new plugs wires etc(stock probably as they r just fine), and possibly cam gears too, but which one, and their benefit too if any?
CAT BACK EXHAUST: I am unsure here. I want a SS unit that fits like the stock unit(or better). Pipe diameter needs to be 70mm or LARGER. Help me out here. Whats a good choice? Links?
My goal is 250-275whp. Any tips,helps would be great. I should think the number is reachable with 12psi.
250-275 is reachable with 9psi. with 12, properly tuned, you could be over 300.
i would be exceptionally concerned about intake air temperature at 12psi on the jrsc. also, 440cc will not be big enough for 12psi. good enough for 9psi, with slightly increased fuel pressures, but not 12.
on the cam gears front, they would probably benefit you to the tune of ±10hp, but you won't be able to adjust them without fabricating a custom pulley bracket. get gears with as few bolts as possible, there are some with 3 bolts, but i like the crower pieces with 4. you definitely don't want 6 - it's just that many more holes to make in the bracket.
re: your comment about the supercharger rework, the bottom end will cost you far more than $1500, so the blower won't be the single biggest expense. you may also want to check over on hostboard for comments about the jr blower mods... some people over there had it done and found absolutely no difference at all.
this is a huge project you have planned... good luck with everything, be prepared to be without the car for months and about $$$13,000 cheaper.
As schwett said, your power goal is more than reachable with 9 psi. The intake air temps are going to be wildly high with 12 psi with a blower. If I were to attempt it (which I wouldn't, would rather get a turbo and intercooler with that high of boost) I would include lowering the compression ratio in my engine buildup.
Schwett: thanks for those links, I may just forget about ENDYN then. Too many complaints etc for my blood. So the question is then, I want to get at least around 9-10 psi of boost. Just one pulley would do it. Where should I grab it from?
Geez, Im almost thinking about just doing a fully built NA engine. Almost seems safer and more reliable way to go at this point. Maybe rework the head(with a hot cam set of course), intake and throttle body. get my gains there.
Originally posted by Ritteri Wouldnt going with a lower compression ratio also lose some substantial hp?? What would I lose from say 10:1 at 9psi vs. 9:1 at 9psi??
I was referring to lowering it if you went 12 psi. Yes, you will lose some power, but gain some reliability. 9:1@9psi would produce more power than 10:1@6psi.
Alright, how does this sound. Ditch the ENDYN idea, and with the money saved, put it towards a full crower head build up with a turbo cam(that has lower overlap and more agressive lift),springs,retainers,valve stems and seats?? Keep the PSI between 6-9 psi. And keep the stock 10:1 compression ratio. At 9psi will I hit 250whp reliably?? This is my big goal. 250minimumwhp with reliability in mind.
if money is any concern at all, just forget about the headwork. the h22 head is pretty good as is, or rather, plenty good to produce 250whp at 9psi of boost. headwork is great for n/a cars, because squeezing another 20whp is damn hard. your 250whp is an easy target to reach with a standalone, properly tuned, the jrsc, jim's 9/10psi pulley, and not a whole hell of lot else. i/h/e won't hurt, but don't count on huge gains from it. i dyno'd back to back with intake and exhaust changes, and it made no difference at all - but i'm sure if you went with a whole system, i/h/e/c (cat) you'd get some gains.
you could also POSSIBLY run 9psi without building the bottom end, if you tune very conservatively and maybe get a j&s to listen for even the slightest detonation. this is a subject of debate, whether combustion pressure alone at those power levels will destory the pistons. for most bars, at 9/10psi, you're really not in the the area where most people who consider building the bottom end. if absolute reliability is a must, and you are going to tune "on the edge," then yes, you've got to do something about those pistons.
The AEM has knock detection too. Is this just as good as the J&S unit? Also how does the unit detect knock?? Does it need a special sensor?
As for the head rework, Im wasnt really talkin about porting or polishing, but its not too much anyway so what they hey...... what I was reffering to was just upgrading the hardware to crower stuff with the new turbo cam being the main advantage.
Yeah, Im gonna scrap the modifying SC idea, and put that money back into the head and block itself. I really dont want a turbo setup as I dont want to cut or weld any subframes onto/or off the vehicle. Plus I want the torque down low where a SC can give it.
well, keep in mind that everything you change increases the likelihood of it not working... everything you take apart is more likely to fail than it was before. if you don't have a specific reason to change out your valve springs, guides, valves, cams, etc, then don't do it.
if you were going for 500whp or something, i'd say go for it, but at 250whp? not worth it imho. nobody has tried an afermarket cam with the jrsc yet.... you may get poor or unexpected results.
Quote:
Originally posted by Ritteri As for the head rework, Im wasnt really talkin about porting or polishing, but its not too much anyway so what they hey...... what I was reffering to was just upgrading the hardware to crower stuff with the new turbo cam being the main advantage.
Doesnt really matter. Overlap kills the effect of boost. Less overlap ='s more efficient use of boost. The crower Turbo cam has lower duration which reduces overlap, less overlap than stock, with a more agressive lift, should give more effctive boosting.
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