More Newb questions - Honda Prelude Forum

OutOfRiceRyan · 11-04-2008, 09:55 AM

I have the stock JRSC on a 2000 prelude SH; I am using the jackson racing EMF and i need a tune. What else should I get before the tune? Do I need a diffferent ecu? Do I need a fuel pressure guage? Sorry I'm kinda new to this and i did search the forums but nothing specifically answered my questions in a way that I'd understand. I know I'd benefit from an aftermarket ecu and or chip, but i don't know which one to get. I've heard about hondata and the p28/ p72 i think it was, but i don't know what those really do or how they work. I want to keep the atts working so what is the best aftermarket ecu or chip to use with that in mind? I also will need bigger injectors i know. Any recommendations on those? My goal is to run 9lbs of boost on stock internal by switching out the crankshaft pulley with a F22 one. This is my daily driver so I need reliability. Is it possible with a good tune to pull that off? And is there anything else i would need to do that and get a good tune? Also, FYI i have an AEM V2 intake, megan racing headers and a tanabe exhaust. Sorrry for all the newb questions but A huge thank you to anyone out there that can help me out, i wanna do this the right way the first time you know. oh and if it matters I'd like to keep a lower budget like around 3,000 or so, but if i have to spend more for reliability definately i will. Thanks again!

prepreludesh · 11-04-2008, 11:13 AM

Have you read my thread?

The Best Prelude in the World

I do want to help you with your questions, but read this first to get some ideas.

I'm short on time, that's all.

prepreludesh · 11-04-2008, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OutOfRiceRyan

I have the stock JRSC on a 2000 prelude SH; I am using the jackson racing EMF and i need a tune. What else should I get before the tune? Do I need a diffferent ecu? Do I need a fuel pressure guage? Sorry I'm kinda new to this and i did search the forums but nothing specifically answered my questions in a way that I'd understand. I know I'd benefit from an aftermarket ecu and or chip, but i don't know which one to get. I've heard about hondata and the p28/ p72 i think it was, but i don't know what those really do or how they work. I want to keep the atts working so what is the best aftermarket ecu or chip to use with that in mind? I also will need bigger injectors i know. Any recommendations on those? My goal is to run 9lbs of boost on stock internal by switching out the crankshaft pulley with a F22 one. This is my daily driver so I need reliability. Is it possible with a good tune to pull that off? And is there anything else i would need to do that and get a good tune? Also, FYI i have an AEM V2 intake, megan racing headers and a tanabe exhaust. Sorrry for all the newb questions but A huge thank you to anyone out there that can help me out, i wanna do this the right way the first time you know. oh and if it matters I'd like to keep a lower budget like around 3,000 or so, but if i have to spend more for reliability definately i will. Thanks again!

The main focus I see right off the bat is you wanting to keep your ATTS. I was like you once and demanded I didn't lose it, but after realizing the power gains that could be made by actually losing it, I decided I could part ways with it. I encourage you to think about parting ways with it too, because it is just going to make tuning and getting the most power that you can that much harder.

A short answer to your question on how to keep your ATTS is go with a piggyback by Greddy. You'll find a couple that you can use, but that's as far as my advice goes, nobody seems to stick with piggybacks for long.

That being said, get ready to lose a majority of the JRSC kit that you have installed. I'm assuming you're running all of their electronics and the FMU. It's time to convert it all back to normal (your fuel lines will thank you!).

But by normal I mean, start to shop around for good deals on a fuel rail ($130), fuel pressure regulator ($170) and some fuel injectors (upwards of $300). If you want a fuel pressure gauge, that can easily attach to the end of the fuel rail and will only run you about $50-60.

Great, now you have the fuel system you need! (assuming you already put in the Walbro 255lph pump). Don't forget, there's little things you'll run into like injector clips and a new fuel filter, etc.

So with your new fuel system, convert your factory harness back to how it was stock. If you hacked into any wires to install the JRSC electronics, shame on you

I personally recommend buying a Hondata S300. The S300 is an OBD1 computer. If you live in California...well hell this is pretty much illegal no matter what, but it's only if you have a state that you can get caught with it is when it matters! Don't worry about the nomenclature of the ECU the Hondata comes in, it'll all work the same (they say they give you a P28, but mine was a PR4). It'll have functions for VTEC and the actual Hondata Chip soldered in with a USB connection port. If you get it from Xenocron, Chris will sell you the wiring harness as well. This lets you simply plug the OBD1 ECU into the OBD2 wiring harness. All of this will run you just shy of $800

At this point, you're set for tuning basically. Go out and buy your 98-02 (4 cylinder) Honda Accord Crankshaft pulley and bolt it in. Now go out and buy a longer serpentine belt and you're set in that regard.

Now that you have roughly 9psi (and a belt that's gonna start slipping even faster) you are ready to tune. Hopefully you've bought 450cc injectors at the minimum (room to grow) and give it all to a tuner. I believe that you will actually be able to stick within that $3000 range provided you do all the work yourself except the tuning.

But oh wait... You never mentioned if you had your block built or not. I truthfully wouldn't recommend any more mods to push more power unless you've built your block. My numerous threads all over PO show that myself and others can prove why you need to reinforce this block.

To be honest, it's a wonder you've lasted as long as you have without building it, but that's probably because you're running very conservative on your "tune" (i.e. really missing out on power that's there).

With those tiny headers, you will probably see 10psi of boost just like I did (I had megan racing headers at the beginning of my build) because they're a choke point. If you can get a free-er flowing exhaust, you will drop in PSI but your power will go up. Your intake seems fine for the task.

Let me know what else I can assist you with.

OutOfRiceRyan · 11-05-2008, 09:13 AM

Hey thank you for all your help. I guess to start i'll switch out the fuel rail and injectors and leave the pullies how they are for now. I'll find a local shop that will tune my car and see what they prefer as far as tuning and go from there. And yes your right i'm running extremely conservative on my build as my block is not built and i don't have the money at the moment to do so. I know those frm sleeves can't take much of a beeting as well as the piston rings. And to switch to forged i have to resleeve my block with i believe iron cast sleeves??? i think there made by darton. I guess in the end i have to know how far i want to go. As my goal is 300 WHP i think building the block up and forging out the bottom end is going to be a must and probably the first thing I do. Just have to find someone to do it is the problem. I have lots of money saved up but i don't know any reliable places out here in utah that can do that kinda work for me so if anyone knows of a place in utah where i can get a good tune and/or can do the work on my motor let me know because that is what i need to do.like they say, reliablity, fast, cheap, you can only pick two.

OutOfRiceRyan · 11-05-2008, 09:16 AM

oh yea oops, i contradicted myself there. I meant i do have the money, but not enough to just start buying all these parts without doing some research and budgeting it out.

prepreludesh · 11-05-2008, 10:20 AM

You are in a pickle being out in the middle of nowhere. I flew into Salt Lake City once and it felt so desolate for being such a big city. It's kind of like El Paso, only we have Juarez right across the Rio Grande.

But in this day and age of everything getting easier and less expensive by the mail, you do have the option of sending your short block out through the mail to get it done. I completely recommend Golden Eagle of California to be your one stop shop for getting your engine built. It will cost you some money, no doubt, but if you truly are looking to get it built, this is the only way to go. They will assemble everything including sleeves (yes, they're ductile iron sleeves), pistons, rods and they'll balance and blueprint your crankshaft. I believe this service runs $4000, but now you have an engine that'll take whatever you can throw at it. And when it comes back fully assembled, all you have to do is put a head, F/I and transmission on it and you're ready to rock! And the best part is, when it's assembled all in one location, not only are you getting a quality guarantee, but if anything goes wrong, you can send it back for free repairs if it was their fault. I don't think a machine shop will give you that using Darton Sleeves.

Nothing against Darton Sleeves, but when was the last time you got something that had to be assembled at different locations to work together correctly as a proper unit (I'm talking about engine components). The answer is probably not often.

Go with Golden Eagle for your engine build and you'll be happy.

As far as getting 300whp out of a supercharged setup, it's yet to be done. Even the worlds best supercharger build for the H22 (Geramy) has acheived it, but the results did not last long. He's sunk a tremendous amount of money into it as well.

I think the only way you're going to reach 300whp is by using some nitrous. If you have a built block, there's no reason you can't get it to work

If you're questioning the availabilty for a tuner who can do Hondata, I know a "traveling tuner" that knows his stuff. I can PM you his phone number and he will do it, but he will ask that you make him an offer and I wouldn't recommend you low-ball him. He happened to build my engine and then I paid him again to come down to retune my engine for a second time after another shop blew it up. I won't give you the phone number until you are dead set you have the parts and money to get it done right.

Let me know what you intend to do.

OutOfRiceRyan · 11-05-2008, 12:05 PM

Yea lol i am out in the middle of nowhere. Surprisingly though, there is a pretty big import scene out here. You just half to know the right people. Problem is that everyone that is doing tuning and engine rebuilds and stuff aren't always your most honest so i think like u said, by mail, might be the best way to go. I really do appreciate all your help and from the little bit that i have read in your build ( Which i intend to read the whole thing) Looks like im starting out alot like you did with the carbon fiber interior, hood, trunk, optima battery, f22 crankshaft pulley not wanting to lose the atts but prolly have too, ect. Its nice to be able to speak with someone that will help me out and not call me an idiot or something just cuz im new to the game. so thank you for that. For now im just gonna tighten the belt up a little bit, run it through its first oil chane and see where were at in terms of money and after a lot more reasearch, where i want to go. Thanks for your help and ill PM you when i have the money and knowledge to get serious. Thanks again, and good luck with any future plans for your car.