kamikaze

i just had some mahle gold 10.1 pistons and eagle rods put in my H22a4 in preparation for boost this summer. what issues if any do i need to be aware of in the meantime? i know that i will have some power loss but is there anything else?

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'99 5-speed H22A4
Mods on the car so far:
Vafc/I/H/E/P/Test pipe/O2 sim (cuz the O2 sim is hax, gotta mention the hax)
mahle gold 10.1 pistons
eagle rods
preparing for a little boost.

ken2830

i highly doubt anything will happen.. just like you mention it will have power loss..it may feel a lil sluggish probly not that much since the compression ratio is not too far off from a regular stock h22 but you shouldnt have anything to worry about if its still running and sounding good

kamikaze

besides a rougher idle and a slight "ticking" noise seems to run fine. i have not "got on it" since the rebuild and probably wont till about the 1,000 mile mark. i'm thinking the ticking could be the lifters or something? not sure and i have not had time to full investigate. if anyone has some suggestions on where/what to look for first post it up. thanks.

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'99 5-speed H22A4
Mods on the car so far:
Vafc/I/H/E/P/Test pipe/O2 sim (cuz the O2 sim is hax, gotta mention the hax)
mahle gold 10.1 pistons
eagle rods
preparing for a little boost.

myludesucks

Just out of curiosity, if you were to put in the same compression ratio pistions in, why would their be a power lost? Is it the design of the piston or maybe something else?

rjr1622

Corre t me if I'm wrong.. its been a while since I pulled my stock H22A4 pistons for over-sized Type S 11:1 pistons.. but I'm pretty sure the H22A4 is 10:1 stock... so unless you have a H22A from a Type S which is 11:1 then you're at nearly the same compression ratio

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H22-Lude

I went from a stock H22A2 setup to a low comp for boost (9.6:1) but also had headwork I could hardly tell the difference in terms of the power delivery etc I also ran it on the stock ECU while I was breaking it in.

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1998 Prelude base 502whp@22psi
BB Squad v2. #130

JDMpreludeKing

ticking noise sounds like your valvetrain, adjust your valves. i just did mine today, a**hole who built my motor didnt do it right had to re-torque everything & adjust the valves

dohc specs:
intake .15-.18mm( adjust mine to .16)
exhaust .18-.20mm ( adjusted to .19)

they were at .004mm, way too tight

let head cool down to 100degrees or below before adjusting valves

set #1 TDC cams up, adjust cylinder 1 valves

rotate crank counterclock wise 180* cams will turn 90*, now adjust #3 clyinder valves

rotate crank counterclock wise 180, adjust #4 valves

then rotate crank counterclockwise 180 again, adjust #2 valves

recommend every 50,000miles or when someone so called engine builder fs up your motor.

hope this helps your ticking problem, mines all gone.