hey guys i recently did a valve adjustment to stock spec, as well as replacing my fuel filter. i also installed the mugen thermo and fan switch. the problem is that now my car runs really rich from cold start to warm up. i check my sparkplugs they are pure black as well as my wideband indicating. my car idles fine at cold when it starts warming up a bit the idle drops, i'd say less than 500rpm. when i give it alittle gas at neutral the car dips all the way to mayb 100-200 rpm and it dies out. when it dies it, it takes time to fire back up. my question is would the mugen thermo/fan causing this problem? or can i adjust anything on my emanage to compensate with the rich area?
LudeBoi, you never mentioned the valve lash adjustment... do it yourself or have someone else help? It's very easy to mess up unless you have some experience.
Something else is causing you to run pig rich during warm up and foul your plugs. I've had the Mugen t-stat/fan combo for years without a single issue.
It's only slightly lower in temp and doesn't even effect anything until temps get above 150*F. Your problem is occuring way before the coolant has reached operating temps. Look elsewhere.
If your emanage settings/tune was working well before, then don't touch it.
You know its not the t-stat now. Fuel filter...not likely. Look into the valve lash adjustment. Measurements WAY out of spec can be dangerous. I can't offer an opinion on whether or not your symptoms are related to improper valve lash settings...I lack that experience. Ask for help.
could be my egr. i took it off but damn its carbed up in there. i tried to clean the egr itself got that, but under there its a mess. i'll try seafoaming it this weekend. hopefully that would help
yea i'm not too well on those valve adjustment scheme too. my question is if the valve adjustment is off would this throw my idle off?
If its way out of spec, then yes. It could also cause serious valve damage.
I've done many valve lash adjustments on my H22 and I'm confident about the quality of my work. However, I have no experience dealing with problems or damage from a bad job. I can only speculate here. But if I was a bettin man, I'd say your lash adjustments are way off. It's probably not too bad when the motor is cold, but as it warms the clearances shrink, causing a serious problem. And the ecu "could be" in safe mode from this, which would account for the extra fuel. Btw, are you tripping any cels?
Don't rely on my advice though. Get a more experienced opinion before you redo the valve lash.
could be my egr. i took it off but damn its carbed up in there. i tried to clean the egr itself got that, but under there its a mess. i'll try seafoaming it this weekend. hopefully that would help
NO...don't add to your problems. All egrs get gunked up. After you solve this main issue you can go back and clean out the egr, if you wish. But for now, leave everything else alone except for the things you changed when the problem occured. Since you know its not the t-stat, and not likely the fuel filter, look into the valve lash adjustment. Or at least get someone's expert opinion on if a bad valve lash job could cause your symptoms.
One more question, when you turn start does the idle start at like 1200 right after it catches from cranking then pretty much right way drop to a low idle when cold?
One more question, when you turn start does the idle start at like 1200 right after it catches from cranking then pretty much right way drop to a low idle when cold?
that sounds about right, but the thing is that when it drops i can put it back to gear while driving at a stop it will dip to like 100rpm but it goes back to around 800prm.
that sounds about right, but the thing is that when it drops i can put it back to gear while driving at a stop it will dip to like 100rpm but it goes back to around 800prm.
How is your Idle valve hooked up? I just made an adapter plate for mine and it solved the issue i described above.
actually for right now the car idles at alittle above the the mark between 0-1k rpm. the problem now is that everytime i drive, once i let off the gas pedal and clutch into neutral that when the idle dips down low. also as times i get a minor surge, between 500-900rpm. could that just be a vac leak? i did remove the blower and the blower plate, maybe the gasket between the intake manifold struck a leak? it doesnt surge all the time but when i'm at a stop for awhile the car begins to surge a bit.