After one long hard year of enduring the speed limitations of the SS, I have finally reached the promised land.
I got my car back from the shop today. I've been waiting for almost two weeks. And to help matters, we've been gettin monsoon rains for the past 2 days, in Chicago, so the wheel-hop is compounded by wet driving conditions.
I didnt really push the car on the drive home. I finally succumbed to the temptation, and went WOT. All i can say is WOW . The retard was set @ 5 clicks. When I got home, I set it to about 8 clicks, which is pretty good, right? The Mugen exhaust sounds rejuvinated with the addition of the JRSC.
Im havin a lil trouble readin the A/F gauge....when I'm at Idle, the bar keeps rotating between Stoich and Lean....but when I start hittin throttle, the bar stars to rotate more and more onto the Rich side.....good or bad?
Yes, I know I need dyno-tuning and racing slicks. I'm takin the car to the track next weekend, so hopefully I'll have some numbers up.
congrats. keep the btc conservative for a while, 8 clicks is ok if you have 93 or 94 octane.
the a/f gauge behavior you describe is normal. when you go to full throttle the gauge should immediatley flip to one of the lower "rich" bars and STAY THERE. if it ever starts lighting up the amber "stoich" lights under full throttle, i'd back off and get to a dyno ASAP.
I have always been running 93 octane gas. Plus the weather over here is cool like 70-65 as the high and 45 as the low so I have great weather and the 93 octane gas.
I don't want to spend the money on a standalone unit so I was thinking either a vafc or the greddy e-manage with igntion harness. At this point do u think a DC sports header would make a difference?
I don't think the DC header has EVER made a difference, but maybe I'm just biased against a $300 header that looks identical to the stock unit and makes no more horsepower. *shrugs*
V-AFC or E-manage alone will do nothing for now until you hit the dyno. Depending on your power levels, A/F mixtures, and budget, you'll have to decide the next step. Until that point, hold off on any electronic or fuel-related mods. Like schwett said, make it a priority to hit a wideband o2-equipped dyno ASAP.
Then afterwards you could install a Kami header and do a back-to-back dyno comparison for the rest of us (unless Prelude_LC beats you to it) and finally let us attribute something to this damn piece instead of mere speculation.
I noticed an ping coming from the engine, after 3-4k. Detonation? I know the obvious sign of detonation is when I hear something that sounds like "rocks hitting metal".
I hate how the car feels like a constipated V8 muscle car.
**EDIT** I turned the BTC to the halfway point between the Min and Max (which is around 10-12 clicks I'd say), and the ping is gone....well so is alot of the acceleration, but the Lude still runs pretty fast (stayed with a Mustang GT and GrandAm). I LOVE THE JRSC! At WOT, I feel like a F1 racecar.
If the sound went away after you retarded the timing, then the sound was detonation. Please be careful, I would be sad to hear of another fellow luder losing their engine to the JRSC.
I hear its like pinging this is just a subtle noise. Its gone now for good even though I switched back to 7 clicks its not there anymore and its warmer today. Hmmpph maybe I was just hearing things.
Originally posted by Kegster It sounds like driving down a road with small gravel on it, when the gravel is being thrown up from your tires and hits the underside of your car...
Oh no, nothing like that. I've never really been in a supercharged car before, so I'm probably a little hyper-vigilant.
The reasons why you will continue to have people suggesting that you keep the btc set conservatively until you get your setup on a dyno with a wideband are because the human ear is not the best tool to use for identifying detonation and it becomes less effective if one does not know what detonation sounds like. We're not ragging on you, we just don't want to see you blow your motor as has happened to other members here. There was one member back in the beginning of the year who admitedly did not know what detonation sounded like yet insisted he didn't here any. People kept suggesting that he keep his btc conservative and get on a dyno asap. He did neither and blew a piston. Please be careful.
Originally posted by sharkcohen The reasons why you will continue to have people suggesting that you keep the btc set conservatively until you get your setup on a dyno with a wideband are because the human ear is not the best tool to use for identifying detonation and it becomes less effective if one does not know what detonation sounds like. We're not ragging on you, we just don't want to see you blow your motor as has happened to other members here. There was one member back in the beginning of the year who admitedly did not know what detonation sounded like yet insisted he didn't here any. People kept suggesting that he keep his btc conservative and get on a dyno asap. He did neither and blew a piston. Please be careful.
I'm not worried about the ragging, I know its in good faith.
I have a dyno scheduled within the next two weeks. In the meantime, I have the BTC set to between 8-12 clicks, depending on my mood. Do you suggest I set it higher? I also live in downtown Chicago, so I never drive during the week, which lowers my chances of destroying anything soon.
8-12 from minimum on 93 sounds nice and conservative to me. I normally suggest at least 10 for 91 octane. I'm looking forward to your dyno results
Quote:
Originally posted by vir2L
I'm not worried about the ragging, I know its in good faith.
I have a dyno scheduled within the next two weeks. In the meantime, I have the BTC set to between 8-12 clicks, depending on my mood. Do you suggest I set it higher? I also live in downtown Chicago, so I never drive during the week, which lowers my chances of destroying anything soon.
Originally posted by sharkcohen vir2L, did you have a fuel pressure gauge installed with the JRSC? That would be helpful for the tuner when you take it to the dyno.
Yes I did...got it mounted in the engine-bay instead, because the guage for the cockpit was like $120, or so the shop claimed. And yes, I'm running 93 octane.
unfortunately, under hood gauge is pretty much useless in this situation. you can't see it when you need to, which is under boost or when the car is bogging.
what is your static pressure? that's the pressure when the engine is idling but the vacuum lines leading to the stock fpr and jr fmu are unplugged from the regulators, but plugged up so they don't create a vacuum leak.
cockpit gauges are more expensive, but they don't have to be that expensive.
Quote:
Originally posted by vir2L
Yes I did...got it mounted in the engine-bay instead, because the guage for the cockpit was like $120, or so the shop claimed. And yes, I'm running 93 octane.
i personally think the where the BTC is set is way different between SS and manuals. because on 91 octane i can set it at 4 clicks and it runs fine WOT through all gears...i can probably set it to 3 clicks, but im chicken. then theres my friend "manual tranny" who blew his motor twice and the retard was max.......go figure.
and i dont know how the sticks felt, but one click makes a huge difference on the SS models, like if i put it to any more then 5 clicks, the car lags and bogs nasty.
__________________ FS: Octane Front and sides $300 OBO
4 clicks on 91 octane in cali's heat? Damn u have balls. I have mine set conservative in the cold weather and 93 octane. The shop returned the car to me at 5 clicks but I didn't floor it. I only felt crazy power in D with 3 extra people when I floored it set at 7 clicks.
I am scheduled for a dyno this Saturday for just baseline runs. I found out I wasn't detonating or bogging, I was just paranoyed and wanted to be extra careful. Maybe I will set it at 4 clicks on the dyno and see what happens.
My plan for tuning will be the greddy E-Manage with the "ignition harness". So I can properly tune the timing and get rid of possibly all of JR electronics. Once I get the E-manage I will turn up to 9 psi pulley hopefully.
Originally posted by vir2L My plan for tuning will be the greddy E-Manage with the "ignition harness". So I can properly tune the timing and get rid of possibly all of J&S electronics. Once I get the E-manage I will turn up to 9 psi pulley hopefully.
You mean JR electronics right? You wouldn't be getting rid of J&S electronics if you had them Also, you will not be upgrading to 9 psi without upgrading your fuel system from stock. Does the e-manage have a MAP limiter? If it does not, you will either have to find a way to limit the MAP signal, or you will have to continue to also use the JR electronics in conjunction with the e-manage. I do not know much about the e-manage, but I am not sure you would want to run both the JR electronics and the e-manage together. That's like using bandaids to cover bandaids. I wouldn't want to troubleshoot that kind of setup. A J&S V2 would be a nice addition to your setup for both its knock countermeasure and its map limiter.
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Last edited by sharkcohen : 09-26-2002 at 12:38 PM.
Sorry my bad sort of typed in a hurry. Yea I mean JR electronics. I might upgrade to some larger injectors but I can also tune fuel with the E-Manage so I will see. What kind of whp could I hit with 9 psi tuned do u think?
On manual trannies people have reached 260 whp with 9 psi. The stock injectors and JR FPR setup will not support the 9 psi pulley, even if you are using the e-manage. In my opinion the JR setup barely supports the stock 6 psi. The fuel pressures are insane.
440 injectors are a fine choice. schwett is running 440's with his JRSC 9 psi setup. He is using the EFI Systems PMS to control them and his ignition timing. Now, I know nothing about e-manage, so I do not know what it can do for you, but if like the PMS it allows you to adjust the ecu's fuel and ignition signals and if it has boost tables that allow you to adjust the fuel and igition under boost, then you are set.
The biggest thing for you that I would be concerned about with that much power output is your SS tranny. I'm not sure how it would hold up to the power output of a JRSC with 9 psi, which is why I plan on sticking with 6 psi on my setup. And damn, I really would like to run 9.
Also, you will not be upgrading to 9 psi without upgrading your fuel system from stock. Does the e-manage have a MAP limiter? If it does not, you will either have to find a way to limit the MAP signal, or you will have to continue to also use the JR electronics in conjunction with the e-manage. I do not know much about the e-manage, but I am not sure you would want to run both the JR electronics and the e-manage together. That's like using bandaids to cover bandaids. I wouldn't want to troubleshoot that kind of setup. A J&S V2 would be a nice addition to your setup for both its knock countermeasure and its map limiter.