hi guys, i just recently bought an 01 lude with a jrsc stage 3. Its running about 12-13lbs of boost atm. after i bought the car it would sometimes trigger the check engine light under heavy boost under a curtain rpm. usually about 4k. Or if i would quickly stomp on the gas to WOT and when the light comes on the engine loses power until i let off then its ok again. It also runs very rich at idle, spits out unburnt fuel and stays at about 12:1 a/f ratio, not sure if thats normal.
I found a cracked boost/vacuum hose that goes from the bottom left side of the blower to something else (only about 6" hose). The hose was very flexable and i replaced it with a standard 3/8" hose from kraegen which was much less "squishy" and flexable. It seemed to fix my problem for about 10 miles and it was running much leaner idle, but then started doing it again on the freeway. so i looked it over again and found another vacuum leak coming from a small vacuum hose that comes off the top of the blower right after the intake, it has a plastic connector that connects two hoses and was just hanging. I cannot figure out where this hose is supposed to connect to, but i am pretty sure it is not suppposed to be free since it does have vacuum. I will try and get some pics of it later today but any input would be appreciated.
thanks
There's no such thing as a "Stage 3" JRSC. How do you know it makes 12psi? Are you running any engine management? If you are running 12psi on a stock engine, your ring lands are probably already gone.
I hope you realize that the stock MAP sensor cannot read anything over 10psi. If the stock ECU sees 10psi+, it will go into limp mode and freak out.
maybe its stage 2 then, the entire motor as been gone through i believe and its a different ecu, hondata i think. I will know more once the original owner sends me all the reciepts and paper work for all the work thats been done, but it was about 20k worth i know that.
Anyways i think i may have found the problem with the vacuum, but in the process i blew out an exhaust gasket by the cat and now my car doesn't have the power it did, almost like the timing is off. Isn't it almost impossible to jump a timing tooth? it also has adjustable cams i believe.
I didnt know they make "stages" for the JRSCs.....I gotta stay tuned....
They don't. However, someone could argue that: 6psi = stage 1, 9psi = stage 2, and 12psi = stage 3.
For the record, I haven't heard of anyone running 12 psi on a JRSC, except on one specific case which was a special customer of Endyn (he posted here a while ago, there's a thread on it here somewhere). No other person I've met could pull off 12psi with any reasonable safety.
Instuctions for JRSC install... you can check all your vacuum lines there.
There is no stage 1 or stage 2 for the Prelude, JR/Moss Motors makes stage 1 and stage 2 boost upgrades for civics.
Im running 17psi on my modified JRSC, with a custom pulley system... waiting to get back from my Air Force Vacation to get the final tune done as the car was finished two days before I left for Honduras.
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thanks geramy, i looked all over for the instructions. I didn't look through all the reciepts as to what is done to the car, the guy I bought it from only had it for about 2 months and the guy before him had all the work done. I guess the boost could be wrong on the gauge, but it goes to about 12-13 without any vac leaks. it was dyno'd at 288 whp. He is sending me the reciepts and paper work so i will know for sure then..
oh my power loss was from the sc belt i replaced, it loosened up a bit so i just tightened it back up and its fine now.
nice to hear that you figured it out and that it was just the new belt stretching, keep an eye on your belts as they are usually where you will have problems with the SC.
What header does your car have on it? Does it still run a catalytic convertor? Do you have a 3" exhaust? You could be running the 9 psi pulley, but its building extra pressure in the head from backpressure in your exhaust. If you dont have a good header, a quality high flow cat. and a 3 in exhaust get one!
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PFI Sleeves, Eagle Rods, Arais pistons, Supertech Valve Springs, Supertech Retainers, JR Supercharger reworked by ENDYN, Ported intake Manifold, Ported "S" tube, Skunk 2 Throttle body, AEM CAI, Hytech Header w/3" collector, Custom 3" Exhaust, Meizer Electric Water pump, Neptune, MSD SCI-L ignition, MSD Blaster 2 coil, walbro 255 fuel pump, AEM fuel rail, 1000cc Precision Injectors, FJO Fuel Injector Driver, auto to manual tranny swap, Quaife LSD, Motor Mount inserts, and a little secret...
its got DC headers, high flow cat, and 3 inch greddy exhaust. I have to change a gasket by the cat and was wondering if i should just run the test pipe since i don't have to smog it for another 2 years. I don't want it to be much louder than it is but if it would help with flow then it would be worth it. but if it won't make much difference in performance i'll just leave the cat on.
yah i'll probably throw the test pipe on, do i just let the sensor thats in the cat chill down there? I got under it and the leak is actually coming from in front of the cat right after the header, its behind this steel braided mesh cover so i cant see if there is a weld that broke, but i can compress the joint together some and it quiets up. might just take it to a muffler shop.
i took it to a local shop and theres a crack under the cover of the flex pipe, he said he could replace it, but would have to relocate the O2 sensor (i didn't think it looked like he would have to) but the new flex pipe is 150 and about 150 labor!
A total of $300 just to replace the flex pipe!!! Bro, if thats the best you could do, then just buy a new header! It comes with the flex pipe and if I couldnt get that flexpipe replaced for cheaper than a new header....then I'd have a new header!!!
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Sure...I'll take the bottle outta my trunk....as soon as you take the turbo outta your engine compartment!
They don't. However, someone could argue that: 6psi = stage 1, 9psi = stage 2, and 12psi = stage 3.
For the record, I haven't heard of anyone running 12 psi on a JRSC, except on one specific case which was a special customer of Endyn (he posted here a while ago, there's a thread on it here somewhere). No other person I've met could pull off 12psi with any reasonable safety.
Near the end he had 15psi, and was about to put a pulley combo together to net 18.
A total of $300 just to replace the flex pipe!!! Bro, if thats the best you could do, then just buy a new header! It comes with the flex pipe and if I couldnt get that flexpipe replaced for cheaper than a new header....then I'd have a new header!!!
yah i know thats what i was thinking! so i called up some other shops and found one that can fix it for 120ish so i'll prolly just do that. you guys think it would be benificial to throw the test pipe on there, i don't need to smog it for another 2 years.
maybe its stage 2 then, the entire motor as been gone through i believe and its a different ecu, hondata i think. I will know more once the original owner sends me all the reciepts and paper work for all the work thats been done, but it was about 20k worth i know that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brogdawg
it was dyno'd at 288 whp
None. But it sounds like you're not smog legal now...obd1 ECU with Hondata will not pass. Not to mention the other parts you must have in order to make anywhere near 288whp.
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Last edited by Kool-Lude : 11-21-2007 at 02:55 AM.
where did you get those pulleys? so are you saying the check engine light will be on all the time without the o2 sensor in the cat? it was dyno tuned with the test pipe and it has the hondata obd1 s300 ecu so maybe they already took care of the code. found out the moron who put the cat on only put a 2" cat so the system is corked so it probably isn't really running 12-13 lbs. i will hopefully throw the test pipe on today and tell you how it turns out