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Old 03-19-2009, 08:52 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Regardless, it's full of great information that's IN ORDER. By the way will the jrsc fit a 4th gen?
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:27 PM   #42 (permalink)
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yes it can
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:37 PM   #43 (permalink)
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actually to those who are wondering this is my buddy and he actually sold the car like a month ago and bough a twin turbo 300zx so thats his new project and he never did supercharge the prelude to those who care lol
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Old 03-20-2009, 11:29 AM   #44 (permalink)
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^^^^ that is correct. yea, i kinda went a different route. And went turboed. Well twin turboed on my Z. I wanted one of these before the Lude and decided now is the time to buy. So i sold off the lude and got myself a Z. I love it. Maybe ill post some pics when shes finished.

Wow, its been a while since ive been around these parts. lol. Thanks Preprelude for all the help though, and all the help to others by spreading your knowledge in this forum. This guy really seems to know what hes talking about and would recommend him to anyone before boost your H22. Thank ya, maybe ill see ya around sometime. Z32 FTW! TNR FTMFW!
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:54 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Sorry to bump an old thread.

I think the low compression pistons is whats holding back the HP from your car. Those pistons were designed for turbo not S/C. If anything I would go with Type S pistons or something like 11:1 compression pistons. Perhaps with those pistons you will see over 250 whp. Also I think the idea that pushing more boost is going to give you more power is incorrect. Having the ability to push that much boost is the main idea but if you have a better flowing header and exhaust you can push more hp with less boost resulting in putting less stress on the motor. Water/Methanol injection, I believe, would be a great asset as well at 9 psi. It will reduce the amount of heat in the engine, which is your biggest enemy with any type of build.


A few more recommendations I would make to Prepreludesh would be to switch out the SRI and the header you have. The header is not benefiting you at all. The best type of header to use would be something with large pipes that release the air as quickly as possible. Perhaps a Hytech or SMSP header and a good 3" CAI, AEM or Fujita. With these two mods alone Im sure you can get an extra 10 hp out of your ride with a retune. Also make sure the person that tuned your car knows what he is doing. Your numbers fall very short for the amount of work you have put into that beast. Something doesnt make sense. In Phoenix we have quite a few tuners that are very very good. Locash and Exact Dyno are both based out here so if you could bring it down Im sure they can do something with that motor.
Im currenty working on my S/C build and I will be running:

Hytech header
Fujita CAI
3" Madrel bent exhaust
Stock JRSC
1 step colder spark plugs
Walbro 255 fuel pump
P28 with Hondata S300
550cc injectors


and a few other little things.

With this Im pretty sure I can get 225-230 whp. Most likely after complete install and everything working well I also plan on building the head with a full Skunk2 tuner series upgrade. At 5-6 psi I shouldnt have any issues with the bottom end. At that point Im sure I can get 250 whp off 6 psi.

Eventually when I upgrade to the 9-11 psi pulley I will run water methanol injection and look into getting a custom aftercooler made. I know theres a lot of controversy on the Aftercooler not being possible but Ive seen em successfully made for the K20 JRSC so I know its possible. At this point I will also begin building the bottom end. Get the block sleeved and run Arias pistons or Type-S pistons and eagle rods. Ultimately my goal is to achieve 275 whp with the least amount of complications. Theres a lot of other little things that I will be replacing includng the fuel rail, regulator etc. etc... I just wanted to go over the main parts.
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:44 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I think this thread still has potential, so I'm glad you updated it.

Do you know about the header I have? It's a KTeller with a true 2.5" collector, so I don't think I'm losing out on much more horespower, but the moment I put nitrous on, I'm sure that a 3" would be a very nice increase in top end. For the moment, my exhaust should flow very well. I'm all for 3" exhaust, however, I believed it was overkill at the moment. In the future, I'd love to do a dyno run for before and after with the 2.5" versus the 3".

I hear you about the tune, and at that time, I've explained that there are probably a lot more that could've been done to extract more horsepower, and those were the fact I had on a ****ty exhaust (still the Greddy Evo2 welded to the 3" cat.) and the belt was slipping at high RPM and making only 4 or 5 psi. This was coupled with the fact that I was at an altitude of 4,000 ft above sea level (for reference, the part of Ohio I'm from and the car is at now is only 1,200 ft above sea level) and I was running on 91 octane. Now the car can be tuned on the wonderful 93 or even 94 octane we have at the pumps with more agressive timing and with a fresh belt and the new exhaust I have, I could be banging down some better numbers... hopefully north of 250hp. I'll update that if I can get it tuned while deployed in Iraq.

The dynojet I was on also had not had its scheduled overhaul (says the shop owner, not me) and that could've potentially produced smaller numbers as well.

I said in my build thread that I didn't want to create excuses no matter how the dyno went, and I guess I did here, but I believe that there is a bit more power to extract and I'm sure anyone reading this will agree.

By the way, I think your parts list is on the right path, but there is no sense in building your bottom end to include sleeving it, and installing type S pistons. The piston would then be your weakest link because its still not forged. If it's the compression ratio you're after, you can still accomplish your 10.6:1 or 11:1 CR through an aftermarket piston maker, but don't drop in OEM in a built bottom end, if that's what you were thinking of doing.

I've always wondered how much better my numbers would be if I had high compression pistons in my supercharger setup, because with access to a higher octane at the pump now, my chances of detonation wouldn't be as serious of a factor as it was down in El Paso. I'd hope you went the high compression route to compare with mine
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:21 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Yeah after looking through everything I agree with you with the type s pistons perhaps some arias pistons will be coming my way. As far as the header goes It is a nice header but its not the best header for the super charger based off its design. It looks like it would be a lot better for an NA build. I have the Hytech and I love it. Personally I think you would enjoy it as well. If you could get a used RMF header too that would be the balls. Im gonna go with some high compression pistons but thats probably a year away from now.
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Last edited by DJ Hookid; 04-29-2009 at 12:41 AM.
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Old 06-25-2009, 05:48 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prepreludesh View Post
I think this thread still has potential, so I'm glad you updated it.

Do you know about the header I have? It's a KTeller with a true 2.5" collector, so I don't think I'm losing out on much more horespower, but the moment I put nitrous on, I'm sure that a 3" would be a very nice increase in top end. For the moment, my exhaust should flow very well. I'm all for 3" exhaust, however, I believed it was overkill at the moment. In the future, I'd love to do a dyno run for before and after with the 2.5" versus the 3"....
3" isn't overkill. This was performed on an N/A H22 TUNED 3" Exhaust Vs Untuned 3" - Preludepower.com
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215whp, 189wtq with clutch slipping
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch (worthless)
Auto>Manual Tensioner Conv.
Precision 525cc High Impedance Injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Accord Crank Pulley
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Kamikaze Header with 2.5" collector
Mandrel Bent 3" Kteller piping

Last edited by jonbar87; 06-25-2009 at 09:20 AM.
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