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Old 03-23-2002, 05:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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JRSC installed.... I like it!

Hi everyone,

I just got my car going this morning for my first ride under boost. Wow! I really didn't think it would be this fast. I had a 60 shot on a different 5th gen SS before and the JRSC feels faster, only on the butt dyno. Maybe it's just that glorious supercharger whine...... who knows, I just like it! My drivetrain is otherwise stock, excluding a huge tranny cooler ( its an SS).

I had quite a bit of trouble with the electronics. I installed it per the instructions (as best I could follow the instructions) and it wouldn't start. When I called Keith at JR, he told me that it works better if you move the ground connection to chassis, instead of the ECU housing. I mentioned to him I had used the insulation displacement connectors against my better judgement. He said he never uses those.

So, I dug back through the wiring and removed all of the T-connectoins. I cut those wires in the harness and put in butt connectors (like a straw). They have one end of the harness wire in each end, along with another wire or two to act as the T connection points. I used fully insulated crimp connectors everywhere. I also used blade terminals so I could remove the wires easily, to make troubleshooting easier in the future. There is a photo link below.

I had a B16 88CRXSI before this car. A local import "shop" did that install for me and I had trouble, so I took the extra time to do this right. Right in my opinion, I guess. What do you guys think? There is a link at the bottom of the post to some photos.

Also, when Keith mentioned the grounding, I dug through my Helm manual to see where the ECU is grounded. I noticed there was 1.6V between the chassis ground under the kick panel and the housing of the ECU. That's not good. (housing and guard not bolted down)
Since the EMS and VPAC have to talk to the same sensors as the ECU, I figured it would be best to ground them to the same point as the ECU.
The ECU is grounded to the engine block, on the thermostat housing, on a bolt directly below the distributor. There are 2 terminals under the screw, black wire on each. I grounded my EMS and VPAC to there. After that and getting rid of the insulation displacement connectors, it fired right up.

After that, I just had to get to that upside down banjo fitting on the fuel rail to tighten it, since it had a very slow leak.

Why did I wait so long to get a supercharged car?

Photos on TPOG.

Jason
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Old 03-23-2002, 06:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Damn....i want a JRSC sooo bad now.

what mods do you have on your SS right now??
what does the tranny cooler do??
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Old 03-23-2002, 07:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Welcome to the club and enjoy!!!! Boost is great!!
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Old 03-24-2002, 06:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Tranny cooler.

The tranny cooler helps cool the transmission. It's a small radiator that I sandwiched between the AC condensor and the engine radiator. The ATF flows through it.

Anything I have ever read about automatic transmissions says you have to keep them cool. Heat is the enemy, and the harder you push them, the hotter they run.

J
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Old 03-24-2002, 08:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i wish i had one too.


oh wait, i do


though turbo is very nice, superchargers can be just as enjoyable. and you gotta love that whine.
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Old 03-24-2002, 11:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Cool....congrats on the JRSC. Keep us all updated on how your tranny and engine hold up. I'm a prospective JRSC SS lude, and so far I think you're the 2nd one on this board with an auto supercharged lude. So good luck man
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Old 03-24-2002, 05:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah man im waiting for my gauges to arrive then im doing the install. S/C's are nice, my friend just baught a 92 Civic HB 1.6 SOHC VTEC with a JRSC. Man that thing sound so awesome with the blower....
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Old 03-24-2002, 06:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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sport shift automatic and hp

I was surprised to see how tight the shifts remained with the extra power. The 98 Prelude sport shift I had with nitrous used to sliiiide into the next gear while juicing. I didn't have a transmission cooler on it though.

On this Prelude, before the transmission cooler, it was common for the shift feel to change as the car warmed up. It would start out pretty nice and firm, and as everything warmed up, the shifting would get soft. It got soft, but not too soft.

With the cooler installed, the shifts stay as firm as when you first start out. I was a little suprised to see that with boost, they are just as firm, if not firmer than without boost. They could be firmer too, because the sport shift tranny has a torque-sensing ATF pressure regulator, so the harder you're on it, the firmer it shifts.

Jason
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Old 03-24-2002, 06:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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is it juicing or squeezing????
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Old 03-26-2002, 02:39 AM   #10 (permalink)
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jayjjjj, what transmission cooler did you install, and where did you purchase it (for that matter, how much did it cost you)? I am interested in getting one as well, as I also have an SS.
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Old 03-26-2002, 03:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Hey Jayjjjj good pictures. And are you thinking about a Level Ten kit for your car just to be on the safe side with the Tranny cooler?? Oh and what kind of tranny cooler is it that you have again??
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Old 03-26-2002, 03:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Sorry, guys, I don't remember what brand it is. I bought it at Advance Auto Parts. I just got the heavy dutyest one they had that would fit, it's a stacked-plate design (as opposed to a tube + fin). It measured roughly 12"x10"x3/4". I think it was about $55.

You'll need a 3/8" hose to 3/8" hose coupler and about 4' of 3/8" transmission cooler hose (in addition to what comes with the cooler). I believe it has to be transmission cooler hose, others will swell or aren't compatible with the fluid, or something. I'm not honestly sure, just know they had special hose at the store.

Also get some wire loom and tie straps. Use the wire loom around the hose anywhere it could rub something sharp. I tied my hoses down near the fan, for obvious reasons. Be sure to leave a little slack for when the transmission twists.

Jason
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Old 03-26-2002, 03:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm not getting anything from level 10 unless something goes wrong. Why spend the money to prevent something when fixing it would cost the same as preventing it?

Although, if I ever see signs that something is starting to die inside the transmission, I won't hesitate to Level 10 it. I've yet to hear anything bad about them.

Jason
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Old 03-27-2002, 08:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Jason, question for you, or anyone else who has done the installation themselves: how did you go about bending those brake lines. I have a line bender, but it's not going to fit in between the lines to use it. I am most concerned about kinking the lines (of course).
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Old 03-28-2002, 02:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I just worked them slowly, making small adjustments each time.
Use your hands, no tools, and take your time.

J
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Old 03-28-2002, 05:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Sweet, thanks Jason.
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