jonbar87's H22 JRSC Build Thread - Page 3 - Honda Prelude Forum

geramy · 07-07-2009, 01:43 AM

do you have the stock JR pulley? there should be a spacer machined into it. I had that problem with not having that "lip" when I had some pulleys made.

jonbar87 · 07-07-2009, 05:49 AM

yes I have the stock pulley. how did you remedy the problem?

jonbar87 · 07-07-2009, 03:06 PM

just an update. took the pulley off and sure enough the little snout that sticks out on the blower was rubbing on the pulley and there were shavings all over. I was gonna take a pic but didn't have my camera with me. I have no clue as to why, either a spacer was missing or the pulley isn't the original one but either way I cleaned it all up then went to lowes and got myself a half inch washer which fit perfect. Put the pulley back on and tightened down. turned out to be the perfect size spacer cause it doesn't rub on the blower anymore but also doesn't rub against the belt tensioner on the other side either. Been driving it back and forth to work and it's running great. Now that I think I've finally got the quirks worked out (knock on wood) I'm going to throw the belt on and just idle it to make sure that that part of the JRSC is all good. If so, I'm heading down to florida the weekend of the 18th hopefully. I am so sick of taking that blower on and off...i bet i've had it off at least ten times in the last week. can't wait to get this on a dyno and have it tuned!

Thanks to all you (geramy and prepreludesh) for your input! It's been extremely helpful. I was always impressed with how quickly i got answers here.

geramy · 07-08-2009, 03:07 AM

I had a lip machined into the pulleys.

the stock JR pulleys have the jr logo pringed on them.

jonbar87 · 07-08-2009, 10:50 AM

hmmm....mine does have the JR logo printed on it. I think it also says 3.4 on it or something. Oh well, problem is fixed.

jonbar87 · 07-10-2009, 03:21 PM

So I was in the shower and had an idea. In this 100+ degree weather my IAT's are around 150 degrees once my car is fully warmed up and I've been driving around...and that's WITHOUT the belt on. (they were around that same temperature even when I had the Euro-R IM manifold) So my idea is, instead of the having the fans come on only when the water temp reaches 206, how about rewireing them to where they stay on ALL the time. Basically, I'd just wire them into a 12 volt source that came on once the ignition was on and vice versa. For example, I'll sit at a stop light, and my water temp will reach 206, and then my fans will come on, cool the water temp off to 195, IAT's will drop to around 140, and then they shut off. I'm thinking that if they ran constantly, it would really help keep the IAT's significantly lower. I tried raising my hood (installed 4 washers between the hinge and the hood) and that only helped to keep it about ten degrees cooler. What do you guys think?

Artifex · 07-10-2009, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbar87

You have very valid points. but let me clear a few things up.

First of all, I had driven it to work, and it drove 80mph without the belt no problem, so I wasn't too concerned about that. I was more concerned about the one injector leaking (which was due to an o-ring being cracked but is now fixed).

You should be fine as long as you keep the car in closed loop on the stock ECU. This should be <20% throttle. You can run the car on a trip like this, and I wouldn't worry. I would use an OBD2 scanner though and check that the closed loop AFR is 14.7.

jonbar87 · 07-10-2009, 11:15 PM

Yea after I swapped my old injectors back in and got the blower to spin freely (it was frozen up due to a needed spacer missing) it runs great now. I can't even tell there is not a stock IM manfold on.

jonbar87 · 07-10-2009, 11:22 PM

update:

went out this morning and I noticed that oil was slowly seeping out from underneath the blower pulley. So once again i pulled the blower off just to find that the idiot that owned it before me had tried to take the blower apart. Not only that, he didn't tighten the 8 bolts around the snout. After I got to looking, I noticed that it looked as if he had tried to pry it apart with a screw driver and had damaged the mating surfaces. After seeing that, I took all the bolts out and sure enough he had. There were about 3 places where he had tried to pry it open with a screw driver but was obviously unsuccessful. So I took some fine emry clothe and smoothed out all the areas he had roughed up. Then, since it was obviously leaking between the mating surfaces, I sealed it with some high-temp permatex silicone gasket maker. Put it all back together and it's holding oil fine now, no leaks. Let's just say I really hope that's the last problem I have with this thing...although I'm sure it won't be!

jonbar87 · 07-12-2009, 08:09 PM

Well I put the accord crank pulley on last night and installed both belts and let it run for a bit....it wasn't boosting obviously cause the bypass valve was open. Everything seemed to be working great except after sitting there for only about 5 mins the shaft with two pulley's on it (see pic)

was very noisy and sound dry and was also hot to the touch. Tells me the bearings are dry and probably won't last long so I'm going to drill a hole and install a grease zerk and pump that shaft full of grease.

jonbar87 · 07-13-2009, 06:31 PM

Got the hole drilled, tapped and installed a grease zerk. After I greased it the pulley's instantly quieted down and they turned a lot more smoothly!

jonbar87 · 07-13-2009, 10:11 PM

Grease zerk added

jonbar87 · 07-14-2009, 10:23 PM

Installed the Walbro 255 this morning. Ready to go to Florida!!!

jonbar87 · 07-17-2009, 07:59 PM

I got one vid but camera died!! just my luck. made 214hp 189 torque.

A/F's were around 11.5 just to be safe. Coulda made more but had to stop cause clutch was slipping so bad. Then we noticed his wideband wasn't working so we got to looking and noticed the nuts had somehow came off and my downpipe literally fell off the header lol, so we had to stop. Blake says he really thinks he could had it hit 225 but just had to stop. you can see how the power was dropping off a little after 6k due to clutch slippage. wish i had a better clutch!! we had already kept the dyno guys there an hour after closing so no time to fix anything. Overall I am very happy with it though. a little disappointed the clutch was slipping but oh well. it pulls SO much harder than before!! now I just gotta hope the clutch get's me home. Blake's a great guy and really knows what he's doing...he even got a job offer at the dyno place while we were there lol.

jonbar87 · 07-19-2009, 07:29 PM

YouTube - jonbar87's H22 JRSC Prelude 9psi 40 - 110mph Pull
YouTube - jonbar87's JRSC H22 Prelude 9psi 80 - 120mph
YouTube - jonbar87 9psi JRSC 1997 H22a Honda Prelude BBmoto Tuned

geramy · 07-21-2009, 05:46 AM

I am having the same problem, only my new stage 3 clutch thats slipping, I have a twin disc just need to install it and redyno and then try out the nitrous.

jonbar87 · 07-21-2009, 10:10 AM

with a stage 3? that sucks man...what kind of clutch you got? I can't decide on which one I want to go with. I'll read good and bad reviews on all of them. I think I'm leaning toward either a Clutchmasters FX300 or a competition stage 3. not sure yet but these seem like a pretty good deal imo:
CorSport Online Store: Honda - 97-00 Prelude - 8014-2300a
CorSport Online Store: Honda - 97-00 Prelude - 8014-0620a

also, what afr are you running in boost?

geramy · 07-22-2009, 03:28 AM

yeah, with my setup i make 12+psi of boost at 3000RPM so the clutch isnt spinning fast enough to hold the power at such low RPMs It was clutch masters, should be plenty for a regular JRSC setup.

I am running E85 only so my AFRs are different than pump gas AFRs

I have a clutchmasters twin disc now. I gotta call and see if they have installed it yet.

jonbar87 · 07-22-2009, 11:12 AM

I see. I'm still trying to decide on what clutch I want. It's going to be either a clutchmasters or a competition.

Do you think afr's of 12.5 in boost would be too lean on a 9psi JRSC setup on 93 octane? that seems to be the magic number for most JRSC setup's...

also what are you doing about heat issues. my IAT's aren't too bad...around 155 driving in town. You got a water/meth kit or just a hondata IM gasket? I was thinking about doing both.

prepreludesh · 07-22-2009, 01:30 PM

I'm running a 12.5:1 A/F ratio (WOT), but it was on 91 octane. Surprisingly, when I drove to Ohio and got back to 93 octane, my A/F ratio was at 12.2 A/F (WOT) which is a negligible difference. I'm literally shooting black soot out of my exhaust though with the A/F that low and when the day comes to get it retuned, I'm going to go with 13:1 A/F Ratio. According to all of my research, I'm going to get better power numbers that way anyway.

I haven't really told this on any other post, but I had Honda Bob tune the car for a highway A/F ratio of 16.5:1 to 17:1 at a steady pace (this is NOT at WOT). The car seemed was getting better gas mileage and temperatures across the board did not raise, but instead, stayed consistent and safe. The reason I haven't said anything thus far was because I know that people would jump on me immediately for running such an unsafe fuel ratio, but I did it for 7 months with no negative results. Even the spark plugs and the ceramics looked good. No misfires have happened either (besides one that happens at WOT past the 6,000rpm range lately). But those are a result of something being wrong with my distributor.

If I were you, while you dyno the car, try to go for as close to 14.7:1 A/F ratio and compare power numbers to see what difference it makes, you might be pleasantly surprised with the results!