jonbar87's H22 JRSC Build Thread - Honda Prelude Forum

jonbar87 · 06-21-2009, 05:59 PM

I posted pics of everything needed to install a JRSC and will also post pictures as I'm installing it to aid anyone who might be thinking about doing the install themselves. If your like me, when you stared you knew nothing about a JRSC or what you'd need so hopefully this thread can help those out there who are like me.

Blower itself

IAB Plate

Kamikaze Header and downpipe

Injectors and OBD1 clips

NGK ZFR7F-11 Spark Plugs

All necessary gaskets. (intake manifold, exhaust manifold, two IM plenum gaskets and a couple TB gaskets)

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump

OBD2 > OBD1 Conversion Harness

10" long resonator (3" diameter)

Gatorback belts

Power steering spacer bracket

Power steering hose adapter

Kteller3" exhaust. Came with flanges and hangars

geramy · 06-22-2009, 04:02 AM

what intake manifold are you talking about? You have everything you need there except for the lower half of your stock manifold. Also the PS relocation bracket is garbage. Dont use it. (do you have the alt spacer bracket) You can just carfully bend the line and reroute the hose.
Sparkplugs.com carries those plugs in stock, and how much boost are you going to run? If your not going more than the stock 6psi you dont want that big exhaust tube.

jonbar87 · 06-22-2009, 06:53 AM

Well I got a Euro-R intake manifold and sold my oem one so now i'm waitin on an oem one i bought...makes me regret i sold it in the first place. As for the ps hose bracket, wish i woulda known that before I spent $134 on it and then just done it like yours! as for the 3" exhaust, the h22 can make big gains with a 3" exhaust, IF properly tuned right. Even an N/A H22 will make significant power gains from a 3" exhaust. My setup is a Kamikaze header (2.5" collector) and then I'm going with Kteller 3" header back. Thanks for the advice!

geramy · 06-22-2009, 07:11 AM

If I was home I could have gave you a lower intake mani. Im currently deployed to Iraq so I dont have anyway to get to it. $134, damn will they let you return it?

Good luck on your build, if you need anything or have any questions let us know.

jonbar87 · 06-22-2009, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geramy

If I was home I could have gave you a lower intake mani. Im currently deployed to Iraq so I dont have anyway to get to it. $134, damn will they let you return it?

Good luck on your build, if you need anything or have any questions let us know.

man that sucks but oh well. yea i asked around and everyone one was like, oh yea you need it so i went ahead and bought it...wish i woulda asked you guys first. what about the bracket though? the one that goes in between the pump and the head...that is needed correct? just not the hose relocation bracket...

jonbar87 · 06-22-2009, 07:59 PM

geramy do you have any pics of the underside of the blower after endyne got done with it?

power steering bracket spacer came in today. updated pic is in post 1

prepreludesh · 06-22-2009, 11:36 PM

If Geramy doesn't respond back to you quicker than you want, look up his threads that he's started and in the most recent one, he shows alot of pictures detailing his port job, the cogs he has on where his pulleys were, and lots more.

I would suggest not sending that piece for your P/S relocator back until you've physically put the S/C on and seen for yourself that you can get the P/S line to fit like that. Geramy told me and showed me that same picture, but I couldn't, for the life of me, get my hose to reach that far. I tugged and tugged until I thought I was literally going to rip the hose off, but I couldn't get it to fit like his. Make sure this doesn't happen to you or you'll be sitting around waiting for the piece to be re-shipped to you after a humiliating phone call to repurchase the piece you sent back for a refund weeks earlier, haha.

Seriously though, mad props to him. And Geramy, if you're reading this, tell me where you're at in Iraq, I'm in Ali Air Base (Tallil Air Base) and I work with quite a bit of you air force folks!

jonbar87 · 06-23-2009, 10:44 AM

Thanks for the advice man! like you say i think i'm just going to keep it. I know if i messed with it enough i could probably get it to work but i'm just gonna go the easy way out.

So you in the Air Force too? I'm stationed in Little Rock AR...sucks big time lol

geramy · 06-23-2009, 10:52 AM

Yes, there are a few pictures in this thread: Endyn 12psi Pulley they are on the second or third page.

and yes you still need that bracket, it also attaches to the Alt. you can see it in the picture I posted.

prepreludesh, Im here. haha I am in Lovely Kir Kush Iraq, on an Iraqi base. Working as a Logistics advisor to the IA. The closest American base here is FOB Caldwell about a mile away. We have a team (AF Advisors) in Talil as well, they should have just got there about 3 weeks ago.

prepreludesh is in the Army, officer. I am in the Air Force. Stationed at the USAF Academy.

jonbar87 · 06-23-2009, 10:58 AM

i see. man i've heard the academy sucks...i'm going the aecp route.

jonbar87 · 06-23-2009, 11:02 AM

so basically (what I can see from the pictures) all they did on the blower was just smotth the edges and rounded of those little blocks then filled in the holes and then also ported the IAB plate holes a little bigger...

jonbar87 · 06-23-2009, 11:12 PM

I would really like to go with the 98 - 02 accord crank pulley. Honda Automotive Parts not bad for 61.27

geramy · 06-24-2009, 01:17 AM

they do some other things inside the blower as well. they change the clearance and balance the blades.

I work at the Academy, Im not going there. Depending on your job it can be a really good assignment.

jonbar87 · 06-24-2009, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geramy

they do some other things inside the blower as well. they change the clearance and balance the blades.

I work at the Academy, Im not going there. Depending on your job it can be a really good assignment.

I see. that's cool.

Well I got a friend that's got all the tools needed to port stuff so I'm going to port the SC throttle body opening to 68mm (to match my S2k TB) and then try and copy what endyn did to your SC...I'm really hopin for at least 240 whp on my H22A w/ 10.6:1 CR. I think if I got that accord crank pulley I could hit that but then I would definately need a water/meth injection cooling kit to keep it cool...so not real sure what I'm gonna do yet.

I'm STILL waiting on an intake manifold that I purchased from a guy off pp.com over THREE weeks ago. Just my luck, the LAST part I need to make this happen, I can't get.

jonbar87 · 06-25-2009, 11:38 AM

Kteller 3" exhaust piping, Spark Plugs, and Walbro fuel pump came in today. The piping is what I was wanting, true 3" mandrel bends. took a few pics of it and posted them in first post

now all I'm waiting on is the intake manifold.

After all said and done, this is what everything cost me:

JRSC $1,700.00
Tune $600.00
3” exhaust $340.00
Kamikaze Header $270.00
PS Parts $250.00
Precision Injectors $200.00
H22 IM $110.00
Walbro 255 FP $95.00
Gaskets $75.00
Gatorback belts $70.00
Accord Pulley $55.00
Conversion Harness $50.00
Total $3,815.00

geramy · 06-25-2009, 12:38 PM

What are you going to tune with? Sounds like you should hit your goal with the parts you have so far.

jonbar87 · 06-25-2009, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by geramy

What are you going to tune with? Sounds like you should hit your goal with the parts you have so far.

I'm driving to Florida to have it tuned with eCtune by Blake Barr BBMoto Tuning Solutions (98vtec on pp.com, not sure if you guys are real familiar with him here on po.com) but IMO he's one of the best H22 tuners out there and have high hopes of him being able to squeeze every ounce of power out of it, while still keeping things safe.

I'm also seriously considering purchasing that 98 - 02 accord crank pulley...

jonbar87 · 06-25-2009, 03:30 PM

Manifold came in this afternoon! supercharger is going on this weekend!

geramy · 06-26-2009, 12:09 PM

awesome, good luck with the install, keep us all updated.

jonbar87 · 06-26-2009, 01:14 PM

thanks man. I will for sure

lilbill97 · 06-26-2009, 01:59 PM

Good luck. With that kteller kit, what are those 2 U bolts used for? Im trying to get my 3" done up soon, I've had that kit in my closet since christmas.lol

jonbar87 · 06-26-2009, 02:48 PM

^good question. I have no clue what it's for. I stopped by the exhaust place yesterday and he said he'd weld it up for $75 and they do excellent work so I'm just gonna drop the whole kit off there and whatever they use they use and the rest i'm gonna throw away.

jonbar87 · 06-26-2009, 03:25 PM

Purchased a 6th gen 98 - 02 Accord (also 98 odyssey) crank pulley. Found it here 1998 Honda Accord Crankshaft Pulley - Engine Mechanical - Dorman, OES Genuine - PartsGeek for 54.95 shipped

geramy · 06-27-2009, 01:52 AM

the u bolts are probably to attach the hangers.

jonbar87 · 06-27-2009, 10:05 PM

well the day I had been waiting for finally came. Started the install:
getting the Euro-R IM off while the engine was still in the car was a MAJOR pita!
before I started...

2.5 hrs later I FINALLY had the Euro-R off and the stock one back one

alternator and ps removed

making progress, but still slow going. it was 106* today, almost passed out...had to come in and cool down for a bit by this point.

RIP Euro-R. I will definitely miss her.

PS bracket installed.

Belt drive bracket installed...somewhat of a pita also.

and by this time it was dark so I had to clean up and come in. but i got the blower mounted and tightened down. don't know if you can tell from the pics but for some reason the blower pulley and the blower drive pulley don't seem to line up, almost a whole rib off...a little disconcerting.

been working on it for a little over 12 hrs by this point and decided to call it quits for the night. will finish tomorrow hopefully. gotta have it ready by monday for the exhaust appt.

jonbar87 · 06-28-2009, 08:35 PM

update for today: Got everything in, and running right. ran into a few problems which I will explain so if any of you diy you'll know not to make the same mistake!
first of all, in the instructions they said to turn the fuel line so that the elbow is facing towards the head of the engine, not the firewall(see pic). Well that's a good idea, but the problem with that is when you tighten the fuel line down (at least with my precision injectors) it hits the injector clip and if i would have tightened it down all the way, it would have broken it. So I tried turning it back around (which btw is EXTREMELY difficult w/the charger installed) and after fighting with it for quite some time, I finally got it turned back around to the way honda has it origionally. This is no better though because now it kinks the fuel line due to how the JR plate sits. well as I already mentioned JR suggest turning it to where the elbow is towards the head (how I had it in the first place due to JR's recomendations) and then just adding washers for more clearance. well I added two washers (MINIMUM to not break the injector clip) but then it leaked fuel all over the place. So what I ended up doing was (yea, i don't like the idea either, but it worked out great) was cutting the stock fuel line, then going and buying 2' of 5/16 fuel injector line with clamps and fittings and extending the line back behind and then over top of the supercharger. Wish I had some pictures but forgot the camera inside. here is what it looks like when it's routed the way JR suggest: see how it crushes #1 injector clip?

The second problem I had was routing the two hoses coming from the JRSC IACV adapter plate. there are two nipples on the passenger side of the plate and in the instructions JR tells you too hook it up one way, but fortuantely because I read up on this so much before hand, i figured out how to hook it up properly, although I STILL hooked it up wrong! anyway, in the end I figured it out, and this is how it's suppose to be hoooked up (copied and pasted from where I read how to route the hoses the appropriate way):

The routing for the IAC valve is CORRECT. The lower IAC bracket nipple should be connected to the nipple closest to the supercharger, and the upper nipple on the bracket should be connected to the nipple closest to the throttle body. HOWEVER, the T-fitting for the PCV hose is INCORRECT. JR puts the T-fitting on the hose between the upper bracket nipple and the nipple nearest the throttle body. The T-fitting should be placed between the lower bracket nipple and the nipple closest to the supercharger. This will provide maximum vacuum for proper PCV operation.

Running as instructed by JR will provide less vacuum for the PCV valve, and it will cause oil to be ran through your IAC valve.

So that's the update for today.

also, does anyone know the purpose of the bypass valve jr provides? is that for if/when a belt breaks the car can still suck air?

well I gotta get up early tomorrow before work and get the header on to save some $$ on the 3" exhaust install so I better get off here. I'll try and get pics of that also.

geramy · 06-29-2009, 06:53 AM

the bypass will allow you to not see boost all the time. Once you start the car the blower will be spinning, if you didnt bypass that air you would be boosting at idle.

jonbar87 · 06-29-2009, 07:49 AM

ic. thanks. so i got a problem. First of all, the IACV adapter plate has two nipples on it, an upper and a lower. well the lower nipple on the adapter plate connects to the nipple closest to the supercharger and the upper one is connected to the one closest to the throttle body. Well the upper one, which is connected closest to the throttle body, sucks air horrible bad underneath the tb. My gasket is brand new and in perfect condition but for some reason the IACV hole on JR tb plate (the plate the tb mounts to) drops below the TB therefore exposing half of the IACV hole. Even if the the S2K tb did go down low enough, there is still no little indentation in the TB for air to be sucked in through the IACV. so I unplugged the IACV hose from underneath the tb and put my finger over it but it immediately killed the engine...so obviously it needs to suck air. Is there a work around for this? or do I just need to find an OEM tb?

jonbar87 · 06-29-2009, 02:21 PM

suggestions anyone?

jonbar87 · 06-30-2009, 01:24 PM

well I went and picked it up from the exhaust place today...it sounds crazy. He charged me 108 for the install. That means the 3" mandrel bent exhaust cost me a total of 378. I am extremely happy. when I asked him how it sounded before I drove it the first thing he said was it's extremely deep, which I like, but is almost too deep/loud. almost like a drone and at certain rpm's also hurt my ears.

After driving it around with no belt I came to the conclusion that it's starved for air. When I step on it it hesitates and cuts out and shoots black smoke...an obvious sign off too much fuel/not enough air. I don't know how I'm going to get it to Florida and get it tuned. I thought about either maybe putting stock injectors back in until i install the belt or leave the 525cc and install the fuel pump so hopefully the larger injectors/more fuel pressure might get me by with the belt on if i drive it EXTREMELY conservativly and putts my way down to Florida. I thought about maybe somehow making it to where (if I installed the belt) I could make the bypass valve stay open all the time so I could be running the blower but not starving my engine for air but also not running too lean. I'm just really trying to avoid using the JRSC FMU and splicing into ECU harness. If worse comes to worse I may have to trailer it to Florida...who knows. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

jonbar87 · 07-02-2009, 04:52 PM

So i swapped my Precision 525cc with my old ones and it runs great now. If i try to accelerate too fast it'll cut out due to lack of air but now it'll make it down to florida ok so I'm really happy about that.

Now I'm waiting on a stock tb because the S2K tb is shaped wrong which causes the FITV valve to leak.

Accord crank pulley came in today but I'm at work so I can't pick it up, I'll have to get it monday since we're heading out of town for the weekend.

jonbar87 · 07-02-2009, 05:08 PM

So i swapped my Precision 525cc injectors with my old ones and it runs great now. If i try to accelerate too fast it'll cut out due to the lack of air but now it'll make it down to florida ok so I'm really happy about that. Now I'm just waiting on a stock tb because the S2K tb is shaped wrong which causes the FITV valve to leak.

Accord crank pulley came in today but I'm at work and I can't pick it up so I'll just have to get it monday since we're heading out of town for the weekend.

jonbar87 · 07-04-2009, 10:15 PM

got home from work friday night and the number 4 injector is leaking so now i gotta try and figure out what's goin on there. looks like it's leaking right where the fuel rail is pushed on to the injector...maybe a seal...? i dunno. I swear, always something...hope this is an easy fix. just sucks cause every time you take the injectors out you gotta take the whole blower off....

prepreludesh · 07-05-2009, 12:27 AM

Why are you running without the supercharger belt on? This is the source of all your problems, put it back on! If you stay off the heavy throttle, you won't be hitting boost, you're just going to be helping push more air into the intake. If you make a run to florida with no belt and think that the engine can "suck" enough air between non-moving supercharger rotors, you're wrong. You could even put your 525cc injectors back in too.

Besides, I think you're still putting too much to chance by trying to drive it down to florida, untuned. If you don't have the money to get the car safely down there (towing) or to fly him up to you, then you don't have enough money to get it tuned.

geramy · 07-05-2009, 06:42 AM

I agree with prepreludesh. You shouldnt drive it down there. Have him come up or tow it down there.

and put the belt on...

jonbar87 · 07-05-2009, 07:14 AM

you guys really think that the ecu will compensate for all that extra air? Obviously I wouldn't be driving it wot or anything like that, but 80mph is 4k rpm. at 4k rpm, I can't help to think that quite a bit of air (enough to run too lean) would be forced in if i had the belt on. I'd rather error on the side of not gettin quite enough air than too much. rich > lean.

aside from the one injector leaking (which i need to get fixed asap so i don't burn the cylinder up) it ran great with stock injectors. I would be slightly hesitant, but NOTHING like when I had the 550cc's in. With those in, I couldn't even get up to speed. when I went back to stock, it ran just fine. I think the only reason it was missing every once in a while was due to the injector not getting gas.

prepreludesh · 07-05-2009, 07:41 AM

I don't think you'll even be able to go 80mph at 4k rpms without a belt, let alone untuned with one.

Do us a favor, take your car out on the highway for 5 to 10 minutes with the belt off and just see how it runs. I guarantee you won't be able to get it to 80mph first of all. I know when my belt snaps on my supercharger, I struggle to get it to even 55mph. And it takes 4 times as long, if not more. There is simply no throttle response. So now try to merge in to the 80mph traffic on a short offramp after your refueling and food stops (which you'll have to do at least 8 times I bet) and see how safe that is. If an accident occurs in which you need punch it or if somebody is coming up on your ass and you can't pass the guy on your side, you're going to feel like an asshole for having to slow down and move behind him for the car behind you to pass.

I don't think you're understanding the complications of getting your car down there, your vehicle is going to be technically unsafe and the sheer concentration of driving it that way will exhaust you.

By the way, I'm sure you have this part all figured out too, but what are you going to do when you get down there and this guy can't get to your car right away? What are you going to do if it takes him a long time to even get the car tuned? I will speak from experience that this stuff happens and stuff will break, things will fail and problems you didn't even know you had will come up. Are you financially prepared to sink money into this car for those emergency situations? If not, are you mentally prepared to leave the car there and go back to New Jersey? Are you financially prepared to buy a last minute plane ticket to fly back up when the car is taking too long or do you have that much time to take off of work?

I just can't see how, with the penny pinching you're doing by thinking you can drive the car down there how it is, that you can afford anything if the slightest error happens. The cost of sparkplugs alone will eat you alive after you keep fouling them due to the rich fuel mixture (yeah, even though you swapped in the stock injectors).

jonbar87 · 07-05-2009, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prepreludesh

I don't think you'll even be able to go 80mph at 4k rpms without a belt, let alone untuned with one.

Do us a favor, take your car out on the highway for 5 to 10 minutes with the belt off and just see how it runs. I guarantee you won't be able to get it to 80mph first of all. I know when my belt snaps on my supercharger, I struggle to get it to even 55mph. And it takes 4 times as long, if not more. There is simply no throttle response. So now try to merge in to the 80mph traffic on a short offramp after your refueling and food stops (which you'll have to do at least 8 times I bet) and see how safe that is. If an accident occurs in which you need punch it or if somebody is coming up on your ass and you can't pass the guy on your side, you're going to feel like an asshole for having to slow down and move behind him for the car behind you to pass.

I don't think you're understanding the complications of getting your car down there, your vehicle is going to be technically unsafe and the sheer concentration of driving it that way will exhaust you.

By the way, I'm sure you have this part all figured out too, but what are you going to do when you get down there and this guy can't get to your car right away? What are you going to do if it takes him a long time to even get the car tuned? I will speak from experience that this stuff happens and stuff will break, things will fail and problems you didn't even know you had will come up. Are you financially prepared to sink money into this car for those emergency situations? If not, are you mentally prepared to leave the car there and go back to New Jersey? Are you financially prepared to buy a last minute plane ticket to fly back up when the car is taking too long or do you have that much time to take off of work?

I just can't see how, with the penny pinching you're doing by thinking you can drive the car down there how it is, that you can afford anything if the slightest error happens. The cost of sparkplugs alone will eat you alive after you keep fouling them due to the rich fuel mixture (yeah, even though you swapped in the stock injectors).

You have very valid points. but let me clear a few things up.

First of all, I had driven it to work, and it drove 80mph without the belt no problem, so I wasn't too concerned about that. I was more concerned about the one injector leaking (which was due to an o-ring being cracked but is now fixed).

Secondly, I don't know if you remember me wondering why the pulley didn't line up with the belt tensioner pulley. Well if you'll remember, I fixed that problem by pushing the pulley on further...too far to be exact. the whole reason the car was slightly hesitant when i drove it to work the other day was because I had the pulley on a little too much which was causing it to hit the blower housing, and in return preventing the rotors from turning. I backed the nut off about 1.5 threads and moved the pulley back, which allowed the blower to spin freely and allowing enough air to be sucked in. I took it out for a drive and you couldn't even tell a stock IM wasn't installed. The reason why yours barely runs when the belt breaks is because you have those larger injectors in there dumping more fuel than your engine can suck without a blower. With my stock injectors back in, it can suck the proper amount of air through the blower no problem, therefore allowing me to obtain the proper A/F ratio.

As for the tuner, we have that all worked out and he is going to be there the day I come down...he knows my situation and has been following my thread so that won't be a problem. I do know that stuff happens, and I guess I will have to cross that bridge when the time comes. I'm going to bring all my stock parts with me so if something goes horribly wrong like you say I can revert back to stock.

I appreciate your input, and want it to keep coming.

btw, what afr are you running with your sc?

jonbar87 · 07-06-2009, 10:24 AM

took number 4 injector out and the o-ring that goes between the top of the injector and the fuel rail was torn badly. replaced it and it's running like a charm

finally got a chance to head down to UPS and pick up my accord crank pulley. looks like it should work

jonbar87 · 07-06-2009, 09:41 PM

is there a spacer that goes on the shaft between the pulley and the blower? (see pic below) For some reason the pulley keeps riding against the blower causing it to bind and stop turning. I think someone may have taken the pulley off and forgot to put a spacer in...? I also noticed that there about 4 or 5 threads showing after the nut on mine. But in other's ppls pictures it looks as if only 2-3 threads are showing after the nut which makes me think i'm missing a spacer of some sort....

geramy · 07-07-2009, 12:43 AM

do you have the stock JR pulley? there should be a spacer machined into it. I had that problem with not having that "lip" when I had some pulleys made.

jonbar87 · 07-07-2009, 04:49 AM

yes I have the stock pulley. how did you remedy the problem?

jonbar87 · 07-07-2009, 02:06 PM

just an update. took the pulley off and sure enough the little snout that sticks out on the blower was rubbing on the pulley and there were shavings all over. I was gonna take a pic but didn't have my camera with me. I have no clue as to why, either a spacer was missing or the pulley isn't the original one but either way I cleaned it all up then went to lowes and got myself a half inch washer which fit perfect. Put the pulley back on and tightened down. turned out to be the perfect size spacer cause it doesn't rub on the blower anymore but also doesn't rub against the belt tensioner on the other side either. Been driving it back and forth to work and it's running great. Now that I think I've finally got the quirks worked out (knock on wood) I'm going to throw the belt on and just idle it to make sure that that part of the JRSC is all good. If so, I'm heading down to florida the weekend of the 18th hopefully. I am so sick of taking that blower on and off...i bet i've had it off at least ten times in the last week. can't wait to get this on a dyno and have it tuned!

Thanks to all you (geramy and prepreludesh) for your input! It's been extremely helpful. I was always impressed with how quickly i got answers here.

geramy · 07-08-2009, 02:07 AM

I had a lip machined into the pulleys.

the stock JR pulleys have the jr logo pringed on them.

jonbar87 · 07-08-2009, 09:50 AM

hmmm....mine does have the JR logo printed on it. I think it also says 3.4 on it or something. Oh well, problem is fixed.

jonbar87 · 07-10-2009, 02:21 PM

So I was in the shower and had an idea. In this 100+ degree weather my IAT's are around 150 degrees once my car is fully warmed up and I've been driving around...and that's WITHOUT the belt on. (they were around that same temperature even when I had the Euro-R IM manifold) So my idea is, instead of the having the fans come on only when the water temp reaches 206, how about rewireing them to where they stay on ALL the time. Basically, I'd just wire them into a 12 volt source that came on once the ignition was on and vice versa. For example, I'll sit at a stop light, and my water temp will reach 206, and then my fans will come on, cool the water temp off to 195, IAT's will drop to around 140, and then they shut off. I'm thinking that if they ran constantly, it would really help keep the IAT's significantly lower. I tried raising my hood (installed 4 washers between the hinge and the hood) and that only helped to keep it about ten degrees cooler. What do you guys think?

Artifex · 07-10-2009, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbar87

You have very valid points. but let me clear a few things up.

First of all, I had driven it to work, and it drove 80mph without the belt no problem, so I wasn't too concerned about that. I was more concerned about the one injector leaking (which was due to an o-ring being cracked but is now fixed).

You should be fine as long as you keep the car in closed loop on the stock ECU. This should be <20% throttle. You can run the car on a trip like this, and I wouldn't worry. I would use an OBD2 scanner though and check that the closed loop AFR is 14.7.

jonbar87 · 07-10-2009, 10:15 PM

Yea after I swapped my old injectors back in and got the blower to spin freely (it was frozen up due to a needed spacer missing) it runs great now. I can't even tell there is not a stock IM manfold on.

jonbar87 · 07-10-2009, 10:22 PM

update:

went out this morning and I noticed that oil was slowly seeping out from underneath the blower pulley. So once again i pulled the blower off just to find that the idiot that owned it before me had tried to take the blower apart. Not only that, he didn't tighten the 8 bolts around the snout. After I got to looking, I noticed that it looked as if he had tried to pry it apart with a screw driver and had damaged the mating surfaces. After seeing that, I took all the bolts out and sure enough he had. There were about 3 places where he had tried to pry it open with a screw driver but was obviously unsuccessful. So I took some fine emry clothe and smoothed out all the areas he had roughed up. Then, since it was obviously leaking between the mating surfaces, I sealed it with some high-temp permatex silicone gasket maker. Put it all back together and it's holding oil fine now, no leaks. Let's just say I really hope that's the last problem I have with this thing...although I'm sure it won't be!

jonbar87 · 07-12-2009, 07:09 PM

Well I put the accord crank pulley on last night and installed both belts and let it run for a bit....it wasn't boosting obviously cause the bypass valve was open. Everything seemed to be working great except after sitting there for only about 5 mins the shaft with two pulley's on it (see pic)

was very noisy and sound dry and was also hot to the touch. Tells me the bearings are dry and probably won't last long so I'm going to drill a hole and install a grease zerk and pump that shaft full of grease.