ok me and my friends wll be attempting this very soon....how long do you think it will take? 1 of my friends have done a jrsc on a gsr and 1 knows how to do motor swaps... i have installed a hondata gasket b4 too....
you won't need a stud puller. it will take you a whole day.
the hardest part is various bolts which are really tough to reach without a particular combination of sockets and extensions and swivels. make sure you have a magnetic pickup. at some point you'll drop something into the engine bay that you want back. the wiring of the EMS is fairly simple but a pain b/c of the cramped quarters. i'd take the seat out. it makes it much easier and takes 1 minute.
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"AIDS is not just God's punishment for homosexuals; it is God's punishment for the society that tolerates homosexuals." R.I.P. Jerry Falwell.
Originally posted by schwett you won't need a stud puller. it will take you a whole day.
the hardest part is various bolts which are really tough to reach without a particular combination of sockets and extensions and swivels. make sure you have a magnetic pickup. at some point you'll drop something into the engine bay that you want back. the wiring of the EMS is fairly simple but a pain b/c of the cramped quarters. i'd take the seat out. it makes it much easier and takes 1 minute.
Ok, how can you say you won't need a stud puller? I'll give you the intake manifold studs as they can be removed with a pair of vice grips... but the motor mount stud isn't as easy. How do you recommend removing that very large, very cramped stud that's going to be faster than with a stud puller?
Ok, how can you say you won't need a stud puller? I'll give you the intake manifold studs as they can be removed with a pair of vice grips... but the motor mount stud isn't as easy. How do you recommend removing that very large, very cramped stud that's going to be faster than with a stud puller?
You just use two nuts that fit on the stud and lock them together and just loosen the bottom nut therefore taking out the stud without a scratch. That's the way I did it and I did not have a stud puller. Good luck.
You just use two nuts that fit on the stud and lock them together and just loosen the bottom nut therefore taking out the stud without a scratch. That's the way I did it and I did not have a stud puller. Good luck.
Yup, that's how I would do it. The trick is finding two nuts to fit it, that thing is huge.
i dunno man, i've removed and reinstalled my JRSC twice, once just the blower side of it, but the other time all the belts and brackets and crap, and i don't recall either removing the intake manifold studs OR screwing around with the motor mounts!!! am i missing something here?
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Originally posted by LuderSH
Ok, how can you say you won't need a stud puller? I'll give you the intake manifold studs as they can be removed with a pair of vice grips... but the motor mount stud isn't as easy. How do you recommend removing that very large, very cramped stud that's going to be faster than with a stud puller?
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"AIDS is not just God's punishment for homosexuals; it is God's punishment for the society that tolerates homosexuals." R.I.P. Jerry Falwell.
For the original installation you do have to remove one of the studs on the driver side motor mount and put a bolt instead so the huge belt can go around without hitting it. The ones on the intake manifold have to be removed in order to put in the part where the bypass valve is.
i thought he was referring to the studs that hold the intake manifold on to the head. you definitely don't need to remove those!
Quote:
Originally posted by 98preludesh For the original installation you do have to remove one of the studs on the driver side motor mount and put a bolt instead so the huge belt can go around without hitting it. The ones on the intake manifold have to be removed in order to put in the part where the bypass valve is.
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"AIDS is not just God's punishment for homosexuals; it is God's punishment for the society that tolerates homosexuals." R.I.P. Jerry Falwell.
Originally posted by BoYgUaN yea. schwett if i have any probs u think i can give you a call?
i need to see the instructions really.....it should be here in a week/two
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"AIDS is not just God's punishment for homosexuals; it is God's punishment for the society that tolerates homosexuals." R.I.P. Jerry Falwell.
very interesting....i glanced at most of it and seems fairly simple.....simple in a hard time consuming way....i dont know what they mean bout all the intake valves and fast blah blah valves but i think once i open my helms it will help
Originally posted by BoYgUaN simple in a hard time consuming way....
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"AIDS is not just God's punishment for homosexuals; it is God's punishment for the society that tolerates homosexuals." R.I.P. Jerry Falwell.
so you need to bend the brake lines and remove the brake line bracket i see....am i correct?
schwett: just to get and idea....i use a t vavle to split the boost....so i can hook up my guage correct?
as for the air/fuel pod i also have how do i get the reading for that.....sorry for dummy questions but the PO link isnt working...
You just use two nuts that fit on the stud and lock them together and just loosen the bottom nut therefore taking out the stud without a scratch. That's the way I did it and I did not have a stud puller. Good luck.
Hmmm.... 2 installs and I've never thought of that. Good idea.
Originally posted by BoYgUaN as for the air/fuel pod i also have how do i get the reading for that.....sorry for dummy questions but the PO link isnt working...
BoYgUaN, your a/f meter is going to have 3 wires: one is for power, one is for ground, and one is for the primary O2 wire that goes to the ecu (wire D7, white). I have read that the power and ground wires should be tapped into the power and ground for the ecu itself to minimize noise from the electrical accessories of the car (e.g. power windows, charging system).
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Last edited by sharkcohen : 07-03-2002 at 11:32 PM.
o i c...the air/fuel wire...does the jrsc need to tap into it also?
i think ill get power from elsewhere because if i tap into the ecu it might take too much power from it? also do the guages have 4 wires then? 1 more for the lights?
Originally posted by BoYgUaN o i c...the air/fuel wire...does the jrsc need to tap into it also?
i think ill get power from elsewhere because if i tap into the ecu it might take too much power from it? also do the guages have 4 wires then? 1 more for the lights?
The a/f gauge I had only had three wires, because its face was not backlit. I am not sure about a/f gauges that have backlit faces.
The ecu has two power wires. The JRSC ems uses one of them. You could tap into the other for the a/f gauge. The JRSC ems uses A24, yellow/black, which is power source 2 (IGP2). The other that is not used by the ems and also sees full 12 V is A11 yellow/black (IGP1). The ems does not tap into either O2 sensor wires.
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Last edited by sharkcohen : 07-03-2002 at 11:51 PM.
there are also other convenient 12v sources near the ecu. i grabbed power for gauges from the multiplex control unit. better to screw up the power windows than the ecu.
Quote:
Originally posted by sharkcohen
The a/f gauge I had only had three wires, because its face was not backlit. I am not sure about a/f gauges that have backlit faces.
The ecu has two power wires. The JRSC ems uses one of them. You could tap into the other for the a/f gauge. The JRSC ems uses A24, yellow/black, which is power source 2 (IGP2). The other that is not used by the ems and also sees full 12 V is A11 yellow/black (IGP1). The ems does not tap into either O2 sensor wires.
__________________
"AIDS is not just God's punishment for homosexuals; it is God's punishment for the society that tolerates homosexuals." R.I.P. Jerry Falwell.
well ill just tap power from the fuse box i think because both parking lights and ignition wires are there for me to use
i will be using a pillar unlike you schwett where yours is closer to the ecu. the o2 sensors....you are suppose to tap into 1 of the 2 correct? is 1 the header 02 senosr and 1 the cat? if it is i heard its bbetter to tap the header one correct? anyone know what wire it is?
as for the brakes you reove the bracket and bend the lines alittle bit?
Originally posted by schwett better to screw up the power windows than the ecu.
I was remembering something I read a while back, that noice from things like the power windows might screw with the a/f meter output, but I do agree with you about avoiding messing up the ecu at all costs
Originally posted by BoYgUaN well ill just tap power from the fuse box i think because both parking lights and ignition wires are there for me to use
i will be using a pillar unlike you schwett where yours is closer to the ecu. the o2 sensors....you are suppose to tap into 1 of the 2 correct? is 1 the header 02 senosr and 1 the cat? if it is i heard its bbetter to tap the header one correct? anyone know what wire it is?
as for the brakes you reove the bracket and bend the lines alittle bit?
The O2 sensor sensor wire I referenced above, D7 white, is the wire from the primary O2 sensor, which is located in the header collector.
Here is a pic from iranman's site of the bent brake lines:
Originally posted by BoYgUaN thx...i thought you had to bend them....i would think noise wouldnt matter but ill use some good wires then....
You do have to bend them. It is hard to see in that pic, but they are spread down away from the jackshaft pulley. I'll see if I can find a better pic for you. When you get the jackshaft in position you will see how much you need to bend them down. They need to give the jackshaft clearance for when the engine rocks back and forth.
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