After a couple hours of dealing with 100ºF+ temps in the shop trying to tune my car, we finally ended up with the following results:
If the image is too small, click here. (Copy & Paste)
As I had earlier expected, power levels were essentially unchanged. I still think there may be just a wee bit of belt slippage occuring at the top. My first few runs netted ~200whp with fuel & ignition tuned, though I did crank down on the belts a bit.
I had the fuel set at ~12.5:1 throughout the power band, as that would be the ratio I'd be most comfortable at while taking into consideration the presence of a catalytic converter. It was a trip seeing A/F mixtures in the 11's for the first time! Much, much better than the 14:1's I was accustomed to before. Heatsoak was a bigtime factor, though. Letting the car cool for ~30-45 minutes leaned the car out to averaging 13:1 all across the board. One run w/in 5 minutes brought it back down to the low 12's. *shrug*
According to John of Secret Services, ignition timing was set moderatively conservative.
Apparently I had missed a bolt located on the blower plate, causing a vacuum leak. This led to my previously stated idle of ~1500rpm. Fixing that led to an idle of ~500rpm. This was expected, as it was a stock h22 map designed for 550's. Timing was smoothed out from the original map and the car drives like normal/before. Nothing new here. What WAS new was feeling a good amount of torque available at 2-4psi, which previously contained a flat spot in the power curve. I like it, along with my newfound WOT torque.
Oh yeah, for all the haters out there, I swapped out my ~4500 mile old spark plugs for a brand new set (NGK ZFR7-F11 gapped at ~0.040") and gained ~6-7 ponies across the board as well as smoothening out the graph.
All in all, I'm really happy. The car drives at it's supposed to be at part-throttle (like it almost did before), but the big key here is having safe a/f ratios & timing curves.
The best part of all: I finally said goodbye to all of this!!!!
Originally posted by 99Prelude_LC did the old ones look bad
so whats your full setup now?
Plugs were decent, though just slightly lean.
Full setup:
'98 Base Prelude w/ ~51K miles on the motor (just under 15K boosted)
AEM Short Ram
DC CC Header
Hondata 2b (using P28 and conversion harness)
RCE 550cc injectors w/ resistor pack
Stock Cat, Exhaust, FPR, Rail, Fuel Pump (and pressures )
NGK ZFR7-F11 plugs gapped at ~0.040" (changed every 4k/oil change )
Hondata IM Gasket
I think that's all for now.
My next mod will definitely be a catch can, though. As you could tell from my pictures in the other thread, there's oil all over the freakin blower/adaptor plate/runners/etc.
Did I mention how much I'm enjoying venturing back into WOT boost territory after nearly 6 months?!??
We were there for a while -- at least 4 hours or more, but there was a lot of time wasted letting the car cool, dealing with the vac leak, tightening belts, plugs, etc. Stupid stuff like that.
Around 2-3ish until around 6:30/7-ish.
I'll try to get a test pipe fabbed (John actually has someone do all the TIG welding) and see what happens. I'd like to remove the catalytic converter's influence on A/F mixtures.
Cat is designed (among other things) to remove unburnt hydrocarbons from the exhaust stream. As the compounds pass through the catalytic material, they react with oxygen to form normal combusted products (i.e. 'steals' O2 from exhaust stream).
Oxygen sensors read this lower value of oxygen as a leaner burn. It's been debated exactly how much of an influence the cat actually has, as some will say none at all, others maybe a little, and some will say a lot of influence. I've heard from a couple sources (one of them being Hondata), that an average value would be around anywhere from 0.2 - 1.0 points depending on the car, setup, and condition of the cat.
That's why I'm tuned at ~12.5 A/F. I know I'm actually richer than this, but I'd like to know how much richer, be it at 12.4 or 11.XX. At this point, though, I really don't think the fueling makes any difference on the behavior of the car. Fortunately, it's been demonstrated previously by schwett and LuderSH (and now me) that, at 6psi, you'll make the same power at 12.0:1 A/F as you will at 14:1, or even 15:1.
just as an aside, i believe it has also been demonstrated that with proper fine control of the timing, there is in fact MORE power to be had around 12.5 than 14.5! since you have a hondata now, your tuner can select a precise timing and fuel value for each combination of boost, map, and throttle. go nuts!!!!
Quote:
Originally posted by iranman Fortunately, it's been demonstrated previously by schwett and LuderSH (and now me) that, at 6psi, you'll make the same power at 12.0:1 A/F as you will at 14:1, or even 15:1.
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congradulations sina....you can get a testpipe from www.testpipe.com for $40 shipped if i remember correctly...the only problem i had with their testpipe was that one of the flange's opening was only 2" when it was suppose to be 2.5"....i brought it to the machine shop i go to and had it bored out to 2.5"
it must have been hella hot in John's shop during the day...btw your spark plug gap is pretty large for boost....here is what it says in the aem ems efi basics manual:
Naturally aspirated up to 11.0:1 CR = 1.1mm (0.044")
N/A 11.0:1-14.0:1 = 0.8mm (0.032")
Forced induction to 20 psi = 0.7mm (0.028")
FI to 40 psi = 0.6mm (0.022")
question, i have a kamikaze header i'm going to dyno, it has an extra hole for another 02 sensor, should i have him stick the wideband o2 in this hole??
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Memories: 257whp & 207wtq @6psi
I quit boost!
Great results, iranman All of what is good about the JRSC without any of the bad. All JRSC luders should be doing something like this. I cannot wait to get my setup installed!
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This was expected, as it was a stock h22 map designed for 550's. Timing was smoothed out from the original map and the car drives like normal/before. Nothing new here. What WAS new was feeling a good amount of torque available at 2-4psi, which previously contained a flat spot in the power curve. I like it, along with my newfound WOT torque. 
did the old ones look bad
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