I would buy a cast manifold. I would do some searching in the vendor section of Honda-Tech, and look for cast h22 manifolds. I bet there is at least 1 that will clear PS & AC. Also, clearance is a function of how big your turbo and DP is. 2.5" DPs can clear without too much trouble. 3" is hard, and you will probably have to cut part of the front x-member at least.
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Damn I really dont like the cast. It looks like it doesnt flow very well. Is there a differance in power? Plus I wanna do it right the first time.
My tuner told me their is a power diff. but its not that much. What do you guys think I want about 250 300 whp just for now of course im going to want more and more.
O and turbo wise I leaning toward a sc61..
Last edited by 1badlude99; 06-11-2008 at 06:04 PM.
that manifold is not AC compatible. But it is good to keep AC and PS on a daily driver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artifex
What is that supposed to mean?
I would buy a cast manifold. 3" is hard, and you will probably have to cut part of the front x-member at least.
Well when i did my turbo build a while back i couldn't find any AC/PS compatible manifolds for the h22.....I dealt with all the manufacturers i also had a custom set-up from CRPturbo who never came thru NEVER BUY anything from em.
At the time only Full-race had a unit that wasn't a log or cast that could retain AC/PS this retailed for almost $1200 which has been discontinued. Kiwi made a manifold and also SFP made a manifold thats AC/PS compatible but they are rare you will have a hard time getting one now.
Like all and most people i was looking for the best deal and didnt fork out the $1200 for prolly one of the best manifolds ever made, NOBODY has a AC/PS manifold for the H22 not neukin, not Cody at love-fab, not SLS, nobody, i talked to all of them all they could offer is to make one custom but guess what? i had to drive or ship my car to there facility not very cost-effective for me.
If u want a manifold thats AC/PS compatible thats not a log or cast it has to be custom made.And please stay away from cast and log manifolds on the h22 motor search im not about to expound on this again covered too many times.Look a manifold that if equal length/and or has runners.
Given the risks of tubular manifolds cracking (keep in mind only the highest dollar manis will last 50k+ miles), I would definitely go with a cast manifold. The flow is less, but if your target is 300 hp or less, tubulars are way overkill.
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If u want a manifold thats AC/PS compatible thats not a log or cast it has to be custom made.
So do you dfwbb6...
Do you guy think it would be "over kill" to get a sc61 or should I go with like a 50 trim??
what are your goals? and are you planning to boost your stock motor or building your motor?
Please do your motor a favor and stay away from those cast manifolds look at the wastegate placement....If you want to use a cast manifold look for the Revhard one
If stock IMO the sc61 is better, being its a big turbo so your not constantly in boost, therefore less stress on your internals. Keep in mind if you get a smaller turbo it will take more pressure to produce the same power compared to a bigger turbo will with less pressure. So more pressure, more stress to the engine, more heat produced and you don't want that.
If your looking for good power on the d.d i dont suggest going crazy with the set-up anything close to the 300 Hp ballpark is sufficient, otherwise all the power would be useless on the street because of traction
Most of the cast manifolds I have seen aren't bad at all. They aren't the flow champions, but they do a pretty good job. As far as wastegates, as long as the wastegate is located in the center of the manifold you are good to go. The only ones to avoid are the wastegates on runner #4 (which I think only 1 manifold out of the ones I posted has).
I definitely think that if you are on a stock motor, get a straight t3/t04 .50 trim. You can't run more than about 7 psi on a stock motor anyways, so buying a bigger turbo is a waste of money.
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I would buy the STR cast manifold, and then port the sh*t out of it. I would have someone you trust take a grinder to it and go to town. That should help the flow a lot. At least with a cast manifold you don't have to keep worrying about if it cracks. I have seen a lot of issues with cracking manifolds, and if it were my car I wouldn't want to have to deal with something like that.
I would never go past 7 psi without some kind of internal work. 9 is definitely not safe, even if your tuner is Jesus.
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Please stop with the 7psi magic number.....different turbo flows differently Psi dont mean squat!!! 7 psi on a t3/t4 50trim is going to be a totally different from a gt35r at 7 psi c'mon cant use "psi" as the determining factor in that case.
Keep in mind if the tune sucks i have seen people blow there motors at 5psi.Not too long ago a buddy of mine was making almost 290 close to 300hp this was at 5psi on a holset turbo.
besides being heavy, an eyesore, low flow and prone to rust, not much, if that isnt a problem; they do hold up, however against cracks, but im not sold on them.
bump bump
ludstarbai what engine parts r you goin to build- where are you gettin them? im gettin the turbo, then ill build my cams pistons etc.
so i'm sorry for bumping an old post but i'm trying to read up on as much **** as I can before I start new threads etc...
My question though is why are so many against cast manifolds? whats negative about them?
Flow rate. Tubular manifolds flow much better. However, the difference in WHP is a relatively small percentage of the overall gain, so for street cars there is considerable safety in running a cast manifold. If I were boosting a street car, I'd stick with a ported cast manifold for minimum hassle.
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