Greddy Turbo Kit post install questions....need your expertise on this - Honda Prelude Forum

GopedG5 · 12-29-2002, 08:34 PM

I just got a Greddy turbo kit (used) for my 99 base and did the install with 2 other friends. It took us 3 days to do but working about 5-6 hours each day. We came across a couple snags toward the end and i need your guys help on several questions.

- When we ran the car with the Greddy Type-S BOV, it sounded nice with a WHOOOSSHHHH but after that was finished, it was followed by a funky sound...like a soft whistle blow then a softer whistle blow. Is this what you guys experienced with your Type-S BOV? I dont even know if i got it hooked up right (no instructions)....the top nipple (attached on the purple top) is hooked up to the intake manifold and the lower nipple (attached to the bottom cast) is hooked up to the actuator. we tried adjusting the BOV from soft to hard but we cant get rid of that funky sound at the end.

- After the turbo spools and i let go of the gas pedal, the BOV makes the WHOOOSSHHHH sound, but during the BOV sound you can hear this rattling sound which seems to be coming from the bottom of the car. if i just rev it from neutral, the BOV sounds but no rattling sound. it only happens when i drive. id this the downpipe hitting something? All the bolts are tightened and triple checked.

- and a stupid question, the Greddy turbo kit does not need to have the oil pan drilled since it does come with a drain bolt with holes, a big washer about 1" inch thick, and a banjo fitting. well, i was wondering if i placed it in correctly by adding another small washer in between the head of the oil bolt and the banjo? im asking this because a tiny tiny amount of oil is coming out but not to a point where its dripping. i was able to drive around with the car for 5 blocks and when we came back after the test, the tiny amount of oil is still there but it doesnt drip to the ground. im thinking of taking out that extra washer that i put in between the head bolt and the banjo fitting.

- is the FMU suppose to have the green light blinking or is it suppose to be a steady light.

- i plugged the FMU along with the Apexi VAFC and the settings are all 0 with the stock VTEC engagement. The car started fine but after warming up a couple of minutes, i revved the car to about 2500 RPM or so to test the BOV and as soon as i let go of the gas pedal, the car felt like it was bogging and going to die. then i gassed it just a bit and it idled the same again. i took off the Apexi VAFC and the problem went away. seems like im going to sell the VAFC now.

- i have a check engine light. im going to my mechanic to see what codes are being thrown. i thought that with the Greddy FMU (blue box) was not suppose to give the CEL though?!?!?!

and last but not least, i was able to fit the Greddy Type 31 IC with my JDM foglights and it is not hitting it at all. it actually clears it by a couple mm.

Thanks guys.

schwett · 12-29-2002, 11:05 PM

check what the CEL is yourself :

http://www.hondaprelude.to/main_checkengine.html

then we can probably help you. the blue box, when working and hooked up right, prevents the common MAP sensor CEL that a turbo or sc causes on hondas. there are a million other things it could be besides those codes...

GopedG5 · 12-30-2002, 10:00 AM

Thanks schwett.

I also just found out that the Greddy Type-S BOV is suppose to make that whistle sound at the end. Apparently that's what the Greddy BOV is know to do.

Anyone have answers for the other questions aside from the CEL and BOV now?

j92s · 12-30-2002, 12:49 PM

the type s bov only has 1 hookup. leave the small, angled nipple unhooked

GopedG5 · 12-30-2002, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by j92s
the type s bov only has 1 hookup. leave the small, angled nipple unhooked

oh ok i'll do that but should i use a T fitting then to connect the intake manifold, top nipple of the BOV, and the actuator all together then?

GopedG5 · 12-31-2002, 08:03 AM

Ok, i found out that we installed the BOV incorrect. Apparently we dont connect the lower nipple to anything at all. And not to use a T for the actuator and the BOV top nipple to the intake manifold. That's what was causing that rattling sound which i found that out to be a compressor surge. I each ran a deducated hose for the BOV and the actuator and the compressor surge doesnt happen as much as it use to but it is still there but only if i immediately let off the gas when it's spooling. How can i cure compressor surge? per the Greddy site about the BOV, it should be tight as possible. Well, it's almost as tight as possible. i think i can do it more.

I also called Greddy and the FMU is suppose to blink green and the whistle sound at the end of the WHHOOOSSSHH sound is normal.

Going to my mechanic today to retighten some bolts in the rear due to squeaking. i might as well have him check the CEL as well.

Lude004 · 12-31-2002, 09:19 AM

Are you sure that the rattling sound is not from your wastegate releasing extra pressure. When you have excess pressure and your BOV can not release all the pressure in time, it goes out of the wastegate. Maybe that is the rattling sound.

GopedG5 · 12-31-2002, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lude004
Are you sure that the rattling sound is not from your wastegate releasing extra pressure. When you have excess pressure and your BOV can not release all the pressure in time, it goes out of the wastegate. Maybe that is the rattling sound.

Ya, i think that's it. I have to start doing that trial and error run to adjust the BOV. i think it was set too hard and i need to soften it up.

screamer5300 · 01-05-2003, 10:13 PM

I think HKS BOV makes that whistling noise too. they have different caps for adjusting the air output. gold, purple and silver. one whistles, one doesn't. whistle followed by the whooosshhhh sound.

GopedG5 · 01-07-2003, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by screamer5300
I think HKS BOV makes that whistling noise too. they have different caps for adjusting the air output. gold, purple and silver. one whistles, one doesn't. whistle followed by the whooosshhhh sound.

Ah IC. I just bought another Greddy Type-S BOV because the thread stripped on the top where you do the adjustment and it was just pushing out air on idle. When i installed the new BOV, i can feel the difference and it still does that whistle sound. So i guess it's a part of the trait or something.

screamer5300 · 01-07-2003, 09:39 PM

i think so... but not sure, since my boost will come late this year...

ask a turbo shop, they would know.

GopedG5 · 01-09-2003, 07:19 AM

My mechanic checked my error codes with his ODBII scanner and was able to clear the CEL the first time. It was because of some barometer sensor. A couple days later, the CEL went on again and my A/F meter on my Apexi auto timer wasnt showing any reading after miles of driving (it will show up once in a while on the rich side though). It happened when i ran it to VTEC and then stopped at a stop light. While i was stopped, the CEL went on. I took it to my mechanic again yesterday to scan it with his ODBII scanner and my primary O2 sensor is dead. I guess that's why i wasnt getting an A/F reading anymore. So, we are going to replace that hopefully today depending if he can get the part.

I still have a couple more things to put in the car that i ordered and just waiting for. I got the Denso Iridium IK22, new thermo sheild, autometer single pod, and the Greddy electronic boost gauge with warning. After that, dyno time.

GopedG5 · 01-10-2003, 07:09 PM

Alright, i answered all my questions....finally.

I replaced my primary O2 sensor with an NGK one and also added the Denso iridium IK22 plugs. My stock O2 sensor was fouled. Hopefully this is okay and no CEL will show up. Im going to install the Greddy electronic boost gauge tomorrow (if it doesn't rain) and finish up on thermo wrapping my AC lines. Will dyno soon as soon as i finish tweaking some little stuff here and there.

schwett · 01-10-2003, 07:33 PM

what fouled it? were you running so rich that it was "off the scale" perhaps? now that you have a new one in, what are you getting on your a/f gauge?

just keep in mind that the sensor doesn't get fouled on it's own, so look for the rich condition that killed it. (unless you had high miles and it was ready to go on it's own.)

GopedG5 · 01-13-2003, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by schwett
what fouled it? were you running so rich that it was "off the scale" perhaps? now that you have a new one in, what are you getting on your a/f gauge?

just keep in mind that the sensor doesn't get fouled on it's own, so look for the rich condition that killed it. (unless you had high miles and it was ready to go on it's own.)

When we looked at it, it was black. i guess running to rich. On my a/f gauge, not boosting, im in the neighborhood of 13.9 to 14.5. when i hit boost, the a/f reads at 10 - 11. so i guess it's rich at that point.

i only have less than 45K miles on the car. although, several years ago when i got the VAFC, the ground wire was loose and the VAFC lost it's power. then i started to bog and backfire. i think that might have attibuted to the cause.

slo mo · 01-20-2003, 03:03 AM

The Greddy turbo kits are designed to run rich to prevent detonation. Your O2 sensor should be black. White is bad but black is good. Any form of moisture on the sensor will show you something is wrong. You shouldn't of had to replace the O2 sensor at all. Don't always count on what your air fuel guage reads. Especially with the greddy kit, most the time if you're boosting you'll be in teh rich area. Try to get the install manual. It will solve most of your problems.