As you guys know, the Fmax kit comes with a t3/t4b. Well I upgraded to a t3/t4e-60 trim, which is a lot bigger than the original turbo. I finished yesterday putting my head on, which I got back from Portflow on Wed., and am currently finishing up the miscellaneous stuff. The parts needed to make the manifold work with a t3/t4e are:
1. T3 turbine housing inlet flange (1/2" thick)
2. 3/8" longer studs for the fmax manifold
3. Two SPAL slimline fan (height of 2.08")- I am using the 12" fan
The turbo is going to be moved 1/2" further up, so you can no longer run closed loop like how the original downpipe was. You need the two slimline fans because of clearance issues with the stock fans. The exhuast flange on the downpipe needs to be repositioned. I am using the 4 bolt flange so i just dremeled off the old 5 bolt flange and I am going to get it welded on Monday. I installed the hacked up downpipe and 4 bolt flange (on turbo) so i can mark the correct position. Also, I am going to put a small C-notch in the cross member so the downpipe doesn't hit it.
can you get the inlet flange from turbonetics.com? so you actually had to cut off the old flange and weld on a new one? hmm, oh well. gotta do what you gotta do.
i called f-max and they told me that they had 2 different DP's. One for open loop, one for closed loop. what do you have? or do you know? because i thought they just had one.
what do you suggest?
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I'm assuming that you're using the extra flange as a spacer? Very interested in seeing how this turns out as I may want to upgrade my turbo in the future...
can you get the inlet flange from turbonetics.com? so you actually had to cut off the old flange and weld on a new one? hmm, oh well. gotta do what you gotta do.
i called f-max and they told me that they had 2 different DP's. One for open loop, one for closed loop. what do you have? or do you know? because i thought they just had one.
u can get the flange from any turbo shop, or www.roadraceengineering.com for $22....what i did was place the T3 flange (pictured above) between the turbo and manifold....this helps extend the turbo further out...i will also need to replace the studs on the fmax manifold with ones that are 3/8" longer
i cut off the original 5 bolt flange on the downpipe....i got a new Garrett turbo which has a 4 bolt exhaust housing, so the original 5 bolt won't work....i am going to weld a new 4 bolt flange on to the downpipe
i had the closed loop downpipe but i cut off the piping that goes to the WG and had it welded up...i'm going to run open loop...if fmax has a open loop downpipe, then get that one since the closed loop won't work with the method i just described
Originally posted by clendaniel I'm assuming that you're using the extra flange as a spacer? Very interested in seeing how this turns out as I may want to upgrade my turbo in the future...
--Ian
yup....this helps extend the turbo out further than the front engine mount...the downpipe is kinda close, almost touching the crossmember, so i C-notched a small section out...i forgot to mention that i had to remove one of the front engine mount bolts...the top one closes to the timing belt and i grinded down (at an angle) the one next to it a little bit so the compressor housing doesn't hit it...also, i cut a small section out of the front engine mount so i could cock the turbo at a better angle (about 20 degrees from vertical) for the oil return....i am running 10 AN steel braided that is why i had to cut a section out for the oil drain fitting
UPDATE: ACE Hardware has the automotive studs but they are the same length as the original studs on the fmax manifold. So I just bought some Grade 10.9 M10x1.25 bolts (2.25" long) and cut off the hex head. I have everything mounted except the condenser fan and wastegate. I still need to flush the radiator, fill it up, and bleed the air out. I'm going to get the downpipe welded tomorrow. I also need to get a dump tube made. My car is almost back on the road again. Woohoo!!
i don't know about the drag since i only modified the fmax manifold but if u look above, u can get an idea of what needs to be done....with the drag manifold, i think u can mount a bigger turbo (t3/t4e) on there without any other modifications....email or PM OOG since he tried both the t4b and t4e and he has the drag kit
my car is up and running....i still have some gremlins to sort out....the vafc hack is alright and the lower rpms run just like stock with the 440's, but the higher rpm levels need adjustment....i set the upper rpm ranges to -35% then -30% fuel correction at 7.97 psi of boost but on my wideband the a/f are still too high (12.9-13.0:1, trying to shoot for 11.5-12.0:1)....i'm going to try to lower the fuel in the upper rpm range to -25% but will have to set the boost lower to 7.25 psi
UPDATE: I hooked up the replacement Autometer full sweep fuel pressure gauge and my idle pressure is 48 psi with the vac. hose on the fpr and 54 psi with it off. The increased idle fuel pressure is the reason why i had to lower the vafc to -50% at 1k rpm. I got the high pressure walbro intank pump. I need to get a adjustable fpr to lower the idle pressure. The 6k-8k rpm range, i set the vafc to -37% and i'm getting 11.5-11.8:1 a/f's. I still have the hesitation at full throttle, but at part throttle the car drives like a factory turbocharged car. I removed the msd btm and installed the J&S ultrasafeguard and need to tune it a little bit more. The turbo fitament is real good, but i still haven't made my dumptube yet. From the WG flange to the downpipe, there is only 2-1/2" clearance so the U bend radius is too big. I got to cut the U bend at an angle and cut the remaining pipe on the fmax WG flange at an angle to create a tighter turn. Other than that, the car pulls hard with the PnP head and bigger turbo.
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