what's up guys, here is my dyno plots of my 99 SH....boost is set to 0.55 kg/cm2 or 7.81 psi...whp=203.6 and torque=184.9...there is two plots, one with type s cams set to zero deg and 0 deg/psi on BTM and the other is with the cam adjusted and with same setting on BTM http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f.jpg.orig.jpg
here is a list of my mods:
fmax turbo kit with MF2 and BTM-T3/T4B 0.63 Stage 3/0.48 H-3
VAFC
AVCR
Apexi turbo timer
Type S cams-intake=4 retard/exhaust=3 advance
AEM cam gears and pulleys
MSD 6A and Blaster 2
FJO wideband O2
my A/F's were 11.8-12.2:1 whenever i boost...what do u guys think i should do?...should i ditch the t3/t4b and get a t3/t4e 0.63 Stage 3/0.57 trim with 0.60 a/r?...any suggestions?
I'm bored right now, so I felt like doing something constructive (not to mention I hate copy & pasting image links. ):
It should also have been noted that the VTEC x-over point was raised to around 5800RPM to get rid of that dip in the baseline run.
I had a question, though:
- Obviously the Type-S cams would be the first choice as to the causes of low power, but would he necessarily need to switch both cams? I've heard many F/I GSR's have switched to using Type-R exhaust camshafts in order to boost power (similarly, a local tuner swaps in GSR Intake cams on JRSC Type R's for the same reasons). Why not swap in the Stock Intake camshaft, yet leave the Type-S exhaust cam? Has anyone heard of this being done before?
Originally posted by 00G What are the specs of your turbo now? What is your spark plug gap? Still have the Cat? What exhaust? Do you have the F-max head gasket????
1) It's in his post: T3/T4B 0.63 Stage 3/0.48 H-3
2) NGK ZFR7F-11 at 0.032"
3) Yes (will be replaced w/ test-pipe soon)
4) Apex N1
5) No
If any of that is incorrect, Quaalude will be more than happy to correct me.
I'm blind, hehehe. I am using the V-1 V-2 t4b. I have better results with this turbo at low boost levels than my T4e 57 trim and .6? compressor housing. With the T4e, the pipe into the TB is always hot after spirited driving. With the T4b V-1 V-2, the pipe into the TB is always cool, even in summer.... With the Butt and Blitz power meter, I dropped hp using the T4e at 7psi....
Both have the Stage 3 with .6? housing turbine....
thanks sina...OOG u probably have the stage 3 with 0.63 turbine housing....i got a CEL today which was code 73, misfire in cylinder 3...i checked the sparkplug and it looks good...i also have a lumpy idle sometimes...fuking gremlins...also, my car started to lean out whenever boosting so i had to raise the vafc...i am serious debating to switch back to stock cams...i had to retard the type s intake 4 markings = 8 deg. crank and advance the exhaust 3 markings = 6 deg. crank...also with the type s cams, there was a serious dip in the power and torque curves when the vtec kicks in
Switch back to stock (cam settings and/or cams), get it running as good as possible then try the combo Iranman suggested. Use the VAFC to switch VTEC higher at @ 6500 or more, tune with the low cams only. I believe some suggested to close the WG to the DP, sagaprelude on here did that very mod, but I am not sure about it feeling better since his car improved significantly with other repairs. A big issue is also intake temps, but I haven't actually checked out the compressor maps for your turbo. I did map it out once and it seemed better than my V-1, but I never tried one out. I did get significantly more power going from 7psi to 9psi, more time in max efficiency map of the V-1. 1st gear would spin tires once boost was built up @ 4000rpm where it would only spin at higher rpms at 7psi.
About the AF readings, I am thinking in VTEC with the overlap, the readings may be exxagerrated either way, so find out using the low-cam only. Is it bad to use the low cam to redline, I honestly can't say for sure, I'd think it would be safe, but don't quote me...
if youc an't reak 210, i think that your turbo is your problem and then i would recommend upgrading to an E trim of some kind. it looks pretty similar to my old turbo MINUS all the jagged lines. hehe
Originally posted by 00G About the AF readings, I am thinking in VTEC with the overlap, the readings may be exxagerrated either way, so find out using the low-cam only. Is it bad to use the low cam to redline, I honestly can't say for sure, I'd think it would be safe, but don't quote me...
I also commented on this too, at the dyno. If the Type-S cams do have too much overlap for this application, wouldn't his wideband show leaner readings and, thus, what he *sees* as a 12:1 ratio is truly a 10:1 (not quite, but you get what I mean). Thus, he could potentially lose a good deal of power in fuel tuning alone....
We also did a run on the low-cams all the way to redline. They made the same power as the high-cams did at ~5800RPM. Why wouldn't it be safe to run them that high?
I don't want to say running on the low cam to redline is good and an accident happens, then he'll hate me forever. I am just trying to be safe, hehehe...
I am not sure either, about the overlap and AF readings, but it could be a start. Since he has the closed loop system (mine is open), he could do a low cam vs. high cam AF comparo. That would definitely rule out overlap in the low cam setting.
On my car, when I tested 4000-5000rpm in vtec and out of vtec using the VAFC and no correction, the AF reads more rich in VTEC than out. I can't really verify this since my WG is dumpig a good portion of exhaust to control boost......
I asked several turbo'd gurus and was told there isn't a difference when the WG is dumping exh before the sensor when doing AF readings. But I did read an exhaust leak can cause the car's gas mileage to suffer if before the o2 sensor. I still can't understand why unless the leak is sucking air into the exhaust stream by venturi-ing, but I am definitely no expert....
i am going to switch back to stock cams...i still have a lumpy idle with the type s cams...thinking of ditching the mf2 and getting a fmu or i might do 450 or 550 cc with vafc leaning them out
Good idea! I am currently using 440s with the stock fuel pump and regulator. I may use an AEM regulator if my friend trades with my vortech FMU. Otherwise, the car runs perfectly at 9psi and stock fuel system. Not that I would suggest stock fuel systems, I am just testing the limits to be able to know for myself... hehehe.....
hey guys back to stock cams now...anyone want to buy some type s cams?....yea i'm going with 440 and leaning out with vafc...i already have the intank walbro...hey OOG are u retarding your timing any running 9 psi...i was thinking about raising the boost to 8.5 psi....currently running 7.8 now
Originally posted by Quaalude hey guys back to stock cams now...anyone want to buy some type s cams?....yea i'm going with 440 and leaning out with vafc...i already have the intank walbro...hey OOG are u retarding your timing any running 9 psi...i was thinking about raising the boost to 8.5 psi....currently running 7.8 now
dang, you're fast!
don't raise your boost until you figure out whats wrong...
When I removed the Type S cams, I found the car was running much better. At 8 psi, I was getting detonation with the Type S cams. I just installed back the stock ones and no more detonation.
I think they're definitely meant or atmospheric use.
yea i got the stock ones on....the person i got to put on the type s cams put the intake cam off one tooth on the belt...i didn't put in the type s cams because i was a little wary about taking apart the engine, this was a couple of years ago, but now i do everything myself and i lined up the cam gears perfectly now...the off timing of the intake type s cam plus the valve overlap is probably why my baseline was so low....how much hp are u getting Purelude? and u got hondata also?....i am debating to junk all these piggyback bandaids and just get hondata
Originally posted by 00G I don't want to say running on the low cam to redline is good and an accident happens, then he'll hate me forever. I am just trying to be safe, hehehe...
I am not sure either, about the overlap and AF readings, but it could be a start. Since he has the closed loop system (mine is open), he could do a low cam vs. high cam AF comparo. That would definitely rule out overlap in the low cam setting.
On my car, when I tested 4000-5000rpm in vtec and out of vtec using the VAFC and no correction, the AF reads more rich in VTEC than out. I can't really verify this since my WG is dumpig a good portion of exhaust to control boost......
I asked several turbo'd gurus and was told there isn't a difference when the WG is dumping exh before the sensor when doing AF readings. But I did read an exhaust leak can cause the car's gas mileage to suffer if before the o2 sensor. I still can't understand why unless the leak is sucking air into the exhaust stream by venturi-ing, but I am definitely no expert....
I don't know about you guys but when I set my VTEC engagement point at around 6700 RPM's I hit a fuel cut off around the same. Seems the ECU won't let the low cam go above a certain RPM's point. Somewhere between 6500-7000.
Maybe because I did not dynoed the car yet but I did not find any power drop caused by the vtec engagement, no matter if it cicks in at 42, 52 or 62 KRPM. The sound changes but the car seems to pull as much... I did not see anycut off but I think my field's controller takes'em off.
What would be an ideal engagment point at 8-9 psi? for those who tuned it on dyno?
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