this is what I have in the middle of building the bottom end of the engine and Bought the Je pistions with the short block So I want to use them of couse but is it possible to use with boost around 8-9 psi will get reseelved from Golden Eagle but let me know is it possible??
I am new at this and know little about engine or turbo so please help me out and the engine is out of a 92 Lude SI so a H23 can it be done??
I think that's just too high...I believe that it's possible but not worth the effort...You would seriously decrease the life of the engine and all the parts and you would spend a fortune in tuning to make sure you didn't detonate. I would assume that you would have problems during the summer with higher temps and would have to do another engine rebuild within a year or two if this is a daily driver..You would also be limited on the amount of psi..You'd have a built block but limited to about 7-10 psi with such a high c/r..I would suggest not going above 10:1..Even then, you need some serious tuning....Tuning is extremely important regardless of c/r but it becomes the "make or break" of your engine when going into high c/r with FI
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Originally posted by symba I would suggest not going above 10:1..Even then, you need some serious tuning....Tuning is extremely important regardless of c/r but it becomes the "make or break" of your engine when going into high c/r with FI
I spoke with Ted at Golden Eagle the other day and ran through a list of services they provide for engine blocks. He told me that the engine they would build for me would come with a compression ratio of 10:1 using a flat Arias piston. I was kind of shocked because I hear most people using lower ratios like 9:1 or even 8:5:1 with turbo hondas, but he said if I want a lower ratio than that, I would have to pay extra for pistons that are dished inward. He also said that a street/track car should have a higher CR or there will be too much lag. According to him, with a 10:1 CR on an H22 properly built, you can run 35psi.. which would put you somewhere in the 600whp range with the block alone, not including a ported head. Not that I plan on using that much power at this point, I'll probably be boosting at max 20psi with the proper fuel manegement.
What kind of fuel would be needed to run 35psi and 20psi with a 10:1 cr? also, how much will I be able to boost on pump gas with say 850cc injectors and an AEM ems?
91-93 octane will only yeild you about 10 PSI MAX. With that high of compression ratio the risk of detonation is much higher. That is why most hondas go with 9-1... You'll need extensive headwork as well for over 20 psi. to run that much psi you'll be looking at about $12000. 20 psi would require 110+ Octane.
Really?.... 12,000 seems a bit much. The complete bottom end rebuild is 2,750, the AEM ems is 1,800 installed and tuned by R&D, and a turbo head from portflow is 1,850. You must be including the price of the turbo...
What CR are you running to get 328whp at 9psi? :big thumb:
I thought you only need headwork if you raise your rev limiter. That's what I was told by my mechanic/tuner. Stephan Pap kept the stock valvtrain on his H22 for a while.
Originally posted by TrboH22 91-93 octane will only yeild you about 10 PSI MAX. With that high of compression ratio the risk of detonation is much higher. That is why most hondas go with 9-1... You'll need extensive headwork as well for over 20 psi. to run that much psi you'll be looking at about $12000. 20 psi would require 110+ Octane.
i don't know about that, the pistons and rods and rings are going to cost 800 at least, sleeving and line boring costs 1500, you have to take the motor out of the car, you have to tear it apart, you have to select and fit the bearings, put it all back together, you need a ton of new parts (gaskets, belts, tensioners, bolts, etc)....... if you're not doing all this work yourself, it's going to cost more like 5,000.
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Originally posted by dvs_prelude The complete bottom end rebuild is 2,750
Originally posted by schwett i don't know about that, the pistons and rods and rings are going to cost 800 at least, sleeving and line boring costs 1500, you have to take the motor out of the car, you have to tear it apart, you have to select and fit the bearings, put it all back together, you need a ton of new parts (gaskets, belts, tensioners, bolts, etc)....... if you're not doing all this work yourself, it's going to cost more like 5,000.
Nope.... $2,750 that's what I was quoted from Golden Eagle with all new bearings, thrust washers, pistons, rods, bore/hone, deck, sleaving, Micropolished and balanced crank, copper o-ring, cylinders bored out to 87mm to increase displacement. etc. etc... (I think that's it)
Not including labor for R&R which I might possibly be doing in my friends garage. just incase I can't, I know a shop that will remove, replace, and prep my engine for $600. So that would make it $3,350 ready to go!
i assume that $600 is labor and they're giving you a free head gasket, water pump, oil pump, head bolts, cam seals, timing belt, balancer shaft belt, timing belt autotensioner, valve cover gasket, etc etc etc?
87mm is the *STOCK* cylinder bore on a prelude.
the $2750 is about in line with what i expected, but the normal labor for removing the motor, stripping it to the block, and then reinstalling a built motor is about $2,000. throw in the parts above and it's $5000.
$600? i hope you know them very, very well.
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Originally posted by dvs_prelude
Nope.... $2,750 that's what I was quoted from Golden Eagle with all new bearings, thrust washers, pistons, rods, bore/hone, deck, sleaving, Micropolished and balanced crank, copper o-ring, cylinders bored out to 87mm to increase displacement. etc. etc... (I think that's it)
Not including labor for R&R which I might possibly be doing in my friends garage. just incase I can't, I know a shop that will remove, replace, and prep my engine for $600. So that would make it $3,350 ready to go!
Originally posted by schwett i assume that $600 is labor and they're giving you a free head gasket, water pump, oil pump, head bolts, cam seals, timing belt, balancer shaft belt, timing belt autotensioner, valve cover gasket, etc etc etc?
87mm is the *STOCK* cylinder bore on a prelude.
the $2750 is about in line with what i expected, but the normal labor for removing the motor, stripping it to the block, and then reinstalling a built motor is about $2,000. throw in the parts above and it's $5000.
$600? i hope you know them very, very well.
GOod point. I didn't take those other miscelaneous items into consideration.
I thought the stock cylinder bore on a prelude is 85mm... That's what they told me at Golden Eagle.
Originally posted by dvs_prelude I thought you only need headwork if you raise your rev limiter. That's what I was told by my mechanic/tuner.
To run high boost, it's best to at least have upgraded valve springs. I kept stock valves, but went with aftermarket springs/retainers on my h23. Call up portflow, this is what they recommended for me.
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It's not Neccesary I suppose, but your spending XXXXX Amount of $$$, you might as well be safe! I also have just springs, and retainers. Cheap Insurance!
Originally posted by schwett i'd doublecheck that $600 labor quote too. most shops would easily charge that much just to take a motor out, whole, no disassembly.
When you decide to have your engine rebuilt if you have'nt done so already, come down to LA, I'll hook you up with a well known shop called Pit Crew that will do the R&R and complete disassembly and reassembly for $700, and I know another mechanic that will do it for $600...
When you decide to have your engine rebuilt if you have'nt done so already, come down to LA, I'll hook you up with a well known shop called Pit Crew that will do the R&R and complete disassembly and reassembly for $700, and I know another mechanic that will do it for $600...
Originally posted by dvs_prelude
I thought you only need headwork if you raise your rev limiter. That's what I was told by my mechanic/tuner. Stephan Pap kept the stock valvtrain on his H22 for a while.
You have to rebuild both the block and head in order to raise your rev limit the right way. You CAN run higher RPMs with just headwork, but I don't recommend it because too high of a risk of f'ing up your bottom end. because your crankshaft is not balanced for the increased RPMs
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which would put you somewhere in the 600whp range with the block alone, not including a ported head. Not that I plan on using that much power at this point, I'll probably be boosting at max 20psi with the proper fuel manegement. 
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