This may help determine those who know to tell you which injectors to go with, which clutch to go with (I like ACT clutches, they seem high quality more than others) and which fuel pump to go with.
Also, I'm sure people could give you the extra costs associated with each of the items you plan on so that you will be ready for them (such as going with anything over a Walbro 255lph fuel pump might require getting new, larger fuel line).
Since you're going to take the motor out of the car anyway, here's a couple of things you might want to invest in or do to it while it's out that'll save you the trouble down the road.
Kazienspeed Balance Shaft Removal Kit: If you get your crankshaft balanced and blueprinted (which you should, I did) then there is no real need for your two balance shafts anymore. All they do is add 10lbs to your engine, take away a couple horsepower and create parasitic loss on it. With the kit, you'll gain all of those negative actions back. I wish I would've done it on mine when it was out, but I had no idea it existed.
H23 Manual Tensioner Kit: Okay, so it's not an actual kit you can buy, but you can piece it together using one of the other threads on here telling you how to do it and the parts you need. The H22's autotensioner is prone to failure and needs to be replaced everytime the timing belt is replaced. I did it to mine and I'm glad I did, it's like taking out some extra insurance on a costly build.
Oil Return Bung: And if you're sleeving the block, the oil pan is out of the way, start prepping for it now that it's off the block for your turbo oil return line, you'll be glad you did. It's more reassuring you got all the metal shavings out of the inside of the pan when you can actually see the inside. (this includes an oil temp sensor bung as well if you're going to run that gauge)
Oil Cooler: If you're going to be doing a really high horsepower application, chances are you're going to start cooking your oil really quickly. If you want to run an oil cooler, start prepping the rear of the block for it now because it's easy with the block out of the engine.
Oil Seals: Don't forget with the engine taken out to get all the oil seals on the bottom end taken care of. With blockwork, they won't hold up when everything is bolted back on. Trust me, I had almost every one of mine fail when it was driven the first 1000 miles.
I don't think you need to use 1000cc injectors for 350 to 400 horsepower, 750 should be more than enough, and the walbro pump will feed enough for that.
My Walbro works fine for 550cc injectors, and I've got lots of room to grow (but not enough air to keep feeding it).
You said you had an AEM EMS right? That's a standalone engine management program that alters many of your engine functions. The main functions you're going to want to alter/control are timing and fuel injection. The fuel injection is probably the easier one of the group. I recommend a wideband air/fuel controller and what this is going to do is show you your Air/Fuel Ratio so you know if you're injecting too much fuel or not enough. When you wire up the wideband to the AEM EMS, you can begin to alter the fuel maps.
The basic principal of this is that the EMS is sending the electrical signal to your injectors which makes them open for longer or shorter pulses. This, of course, dictates how much fuel will be injected into your engine. So when you see your Air/Fuel Ratio saying you're super rich like 10.5:1 (10.5 parts air to 1 part fuel), then you can make your injectors stay closed longer (relatively speaking) and you can burn a little bit leaner for better power and reduced fuel consumption.
I'll tell you about how the timing of the engine can also affect A/F later on, but really this has more to do with making the most power out of your setup rather than A/F ratios.
Remember, 750cc injectors mean that at the very maximum, they will be able to inject 750 cubic centiliters into your intake, it won't be injecting that much all the time. You might be pushing your injectors to 90% or more of their max with 550cc injectors if your goal is to make 350 to 400whp.
How much hp are you making? 350 isnt really my goal but ill be happy with it. Do you think ill be able to hit 450? it would be my goal but that is like unheard off for preludes
If not, take a look. I gave alot of my ups and downs for the entire build throughout and they're all problems you might run into. I think the average guy can relate to this. All too often, I've heard guys all bragging about their buddies shops where they do all their work and can get killer deals on parts and B.S. like that, but I'm not one of those guys. I dream of the day where I can own my own house and get a lift put in like I've always wanted, but for now, I'm using jacks outside of my apartment just like the other guy. I also have to pay for in-depth work that I don't have the time, tools or knowledge for because I work too much.
If you want 450whp, great, that's quite the goal and of course there is no harm in setting goals. Hell, when I was 19 and just getting into cars, I dreamed of huge horsepower numbers too, never realizing what it took to make it all. I learned very gradually and slowly throughout the years because with experience of working on them and learning about them does it all come together.
The way I see it (and I'm not insulting you) but you're going to need two things if you want to achieve that goal. The first is money, and lots of it. Don't be fooled if you think that a build to escalate you to 450whp is going to cost under $10,000. That's not plausible and I dare somebody to find me a person who drives around on a 450whp prelude for that kind of money or something near it. Actually, unless you have that kind of money laying around for a build and then another large chunk set aside to either repair the car when it breaks (as it surely will very quickly) or for a backup car, don't even think of getting into a realm of horsepower that high. The second thing is experience of all things mechanical, electrical and engineer...ical (haha). Can you read wiring diagrams? Can you understand math when it tells you flow characteristics? Can you understand how to properly tune an engine computer based on the numbers it gives you?
Nobody can $hit on your dreams quite like the members of a forum, but then again, nobody can give you the insight and personal experiences of it as well. You need to do all of your homework as to what it's going to take to first get it to 350whp, then 400 and finally 450. If you think you're not going to build the entire bottom end, think again. Sleeves, pistons, rods, crankshaft, everything. If you think every last part of your head won't be modified, also think again. Oversized valves, custom porting and polishing and valve job grinds, camshafts, springs, retainers, rocker arms (eh, maybe) and not to mention how are you going to put this all to the ground? You don't have a limited slip that I saw and don't think that a JDM H22A transmission's limited slip will hold anything above 250whp to the wheels. You're going to need a transmission that can be torn apart for the uber expensive Qualife Limited Slip to go into. Then your axles will have to be upgraded and you'll have to run either incredibly wide street tires or slicks to put that power to the ground, because, why build a car that has 450whp if you can only use 300 of those horsepower before you start roasting the tires. Did you just build a $25,000 burnout machine?
Also, if you indeed did purchase the AEM EMS, you've spent alot of money my friend. Most people go for the Hondata S300 for something with higher horsepower numbers. You'll find this much more user friendly and so will the shop that wires it all in. And all that for half the price of an EMS? Hell, it's just more parts you can buy anyway.
I think that 300whp is a better goal for you, something obtainable, and something you can learn on. You're only 16 right? Why have a car you do not yet know how to drive on? The best drivers start out on a car that they can drive at 100% and learn from it there without being overburdened, then they move up.
Remember, it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than drive a fast car slow. We don't want you to go out and kill yourself trying to impress your friends with stunts that will only lead to accidents and tickets.
Acting like the biggest dog on the block will get you nowhere when you're broke and have no car to boot.
Thanks for all that, it did give me a different outlook on this.
I didnt buy the AEM yet but my shop(turbotrix) doesnt usually let hondas in their shop but i knew one of the guys. They only tune greddy emanage and aem ems for hondas. They were going to give me the EMS, dyno tuning and everything for 2k.
I wanted to go s300 but i dont know a good, Trustworthy shop in NJ that i could bring my car to for tuning of the hondata.
That is up for you to decide, I honestly don't think anyone else can make that decision for you. People will ride on you nasty until you show off the final beauty shots of it. Only then can you bask in the realization that you've done a job well done.
If you stumble along the way, don't expect any slack from anyone, you will be without a car for a while while you find out what went wrong.
But anyone with money would never ask the question "is it worth it?" because they are going to do it one way or the other how they want on their terms.
If you're only 16, you're either going to use your parents money which won't get you any respect on here or you're not going to have enough, because hell, I had a paper route since I was in the 3rd grade and when I turned 15 3/4 I got my first minimum wage job which paid crap anyway.
But then again, I suppose we've all been in that place before where we want nothing more than to be that one guy that's totally original in our school, therefore getting the most recognition and fame.
It doesn't matter later on in life as much, but meh, I won't try to convince you any other way, you live and you learn.
If not, take a look. I gave alot of my ups and downs for the entire build throughout and they're all problems you might run into. I think the average guy can relate to this. All too often, I've heard guys all bragging about their buddies shops where they do all their work and can get killer deals on parts and B.S. like that, but I'm not one of those guys. I dream of the day where I can own my own house and get a lift put in like I've always wanted, but for now, I'm using jacks outside of my apartment just like the other guy. I also have to pay for in-depth work that I don't have the time, tools or knowledge for because I work too much.
If you want 450whp, great, that's quite the goal and of course there is no harm in setting goals. Hell, when I was 19 and just getting into cars, I dreamed of huge horsepower numbers too, never realizing what it took to make it all. I learned very gradually and slowly throughout the years because with experience of working on them and learning about them does it all come together.
The way I see it (and I'm not insulting you) but you're going to need two things if you want to achieve that goal. The first is money, and lots of it. Don't be fooled if you think that a build to escalate you to 450whp is going to cost under $10,000. That's not plausible and I dare somebody to find me a person who drives around on a 450whp prelude for that kind of money or something near it. Actually, unless you have that kind of money laying around for a build and then another large chunk set aside to either repair the car when it breaks (as it surely will very quickly) or for a backup car, don't even think of getting into a realm of horsepower that high. The second thing is experience of all things mechanical, electrical and engineer...ical (haha). Can you read wiring diagrams? Can you understand math when it tells you flow characteristics? Can you understand how to properly tune an engine computer based on the numbers it gives you?
Nobody can $hit on your dreams quite like the members of a forum, but then again, nobody can give you the insight and personal experiences of it as well. You need to do all of your homework as to what it's going to take to first get it to 350whp, then 400 and finally 450. If you think you're not going to build the entire bottom end, think again. Sleeves, pistons, rods, crankshaft, everything. If you think every last part of your head won't be modified, also think again. Oversized valves, custom porting and polishing and valve job grinds, camshafts, springs, retainers, rocker arms (eh, maybe) and not to mention how are you going to put this all to the ground? You don't have a limited slip that I saw and don't think that a JDM H22A transmission's limited slip will hold anything above 250whp to the wheels. You're going to need a transmission that can be torn apart for the uber expensive Qualife Limited Slip to go into. Then your axles will have to be upgraded and you'll have to run either incredibly wide street tires or slicks to put that power to the ground, because, why build a car that has 450whp if you can only use 300 of those horsepower before you start roasting the tires. Did you just build a $25,000 burnout machine?
Also, if you indeed did purchase the AEM EMS, you've spent alot of money my friend. Most people go for the Hondata S300 for something with higher horsepower numbers. You'll find this much more user friendly and so will the shop that wires it all in. And all that for half the price of an EMS? Hell, it's just more parts you can buy anyway.
I think that 300whp is a better goal for you, something obtainable, and something you can learn on. You're only 16 right? Why have a car you do not yet know how to drive on? The best drivers start out on a car that they can drive at 100% and learn from it there without being overburdened, then they move up.
Remember, it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than drive a fast car slow. We don't want you to go out and kill yourself trying to impress your friends with stunts that will only lead to accidents and tickets.
Acting like the biggest dog on the block will get you nowhere when you're broke and have no car to boot.
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