Ludetech and Keahistight, those are the 2 best posts I have read on the entire internet! Now all I have to do is figure out what setup to go with to reach my goal.
This took me a while to dig up because I wasnt sure where it was ... anyway, I found it. This is a good thread to look at because the pictures will give you a great idea of what sleeves, a block, open deck and closed deck will look like.
Im posting a few pictures of my build so people can see what one looks like in correlation to the explination above. Also, it is helpful to see what an open v. closed deck looks like.
I am also going to post up the AEM dual Master Certified tuner list in case anyone wants to contact them. Please note, John Reed no longer works for Torque Freaks after it was sold. He, along with the lead mechanic and engine builder started their own business, RRev Motorsports which is also located in Portland Oregon.
John Reed of RRev Motorsports- Portland, O.R. - (503) 289-4020
Larry Prebis of Sound Performance in Bloomingdale, I.L. 630- 893-5002
Justin Nenni of Tuning concepts - Austin, T.X. - 512-791-4012
Mark French of Turbo Trix - Edison, N.J. - 732-572-6866
Devin Pearce of Payn Technology - Troy, M.I. - 248-649-3966
Lance from Toyomoto - Miami, F.L. - 305-599-3050
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Sleeves installed (#1 above)
Pistons and Rods (#2 & #3 above)
Bottom end together. Pistons travelling within the sleeves
I see cars running and understood that the stock H22 internals can handle 9psi as a daily driver. What if U only want o run 9-12 psi on a stock motor? Can U buy 9:1 pistons (for the FRM sleeves) and rings instead of sleeving the motor and running forged pistons? What is the reliability of doing this?
If you want a stock motor then buying new pistons would make it ... well ... un-stock.
The pistons that are said to work within FRM sleeves are Mahles. I have never tried them and I am of the opinion that if you are going to all that trouble to build a motor (since the motor is basically apart when you put new slugs in) that you might as well go all the way. Putting Mahles in is like hiking a mountain and turning around 100 ft from the end for no reason.
If you have a good tuner then you can run 9 pounds on stock internals as long as your compression is good.
Going from zero knowledge of turbo installs to reading this made me sweat and realize how much easier my classics are to get power. I think I'm going to go ahead and do a build over the winter any how and hope for a turbo by end of summer. You guys are amazing to retain that kind of knowledge. def. not a shade tree job.
Also addressing the H22 urban legends here:
I have a 92 Prelude that has the H22 motor swap, and have been boosting it for almost 2 years now, no problems, and the motor was and still is COMPLETELY STOCK. I am running a Garret 60 trim t3/t4 journal bearing turbo, one thing people overlook, I have an oil restrictor on the oil inlet (too much oil can destroy your turbo, blow the seals). I am running a Spearco intercooler, Greddy Type RS blow off valve, Turbosmart 35mm wastegate with 10lb spring, AEM fuel rail, Hondata heatshield intake gasket, RC 750cc injectors, walbro 255lph fuel pump and Hondata S300. My car is tuned at 10psi and has been for almost 2 years now, Dynotuned using a PLX wideband to feed the S300 and last tune (6 months ago) turned 415whp on 10psi of boost, COMPLETELY STOCK INTERNALS!! As for my experience on ANY motor, a proper tune will determine how reliable your set up will be. I have a friend who also has a stock H22 with an Ebay t3/t4 turbo, but quality parts (blow off valve, wastegate, injectors, fuel pump) and he has been running his on 10psi as well for a year now, no problems. I believe his pulled 350whp on his last tune (different turbo compressors have different compressor maps, therefore = different results). My advice to anyone building a turbo set up on ANY SERIES OF ENGINE, if youre not looking to break speed records and want something that will be reliable and fun, take your time, spend the extra cash for a Hondata S300 (or any reputable management system), use a wastegate with the proper spring for the amount of boost you will be running (for example, if you want to run 10psi, use a wastegate with a 10psi spring, dont waste your money on a boost controller, use the Hondata or other management system for that, afterall, you paid for it, and have it tuned properly), and have fun!
Excellent thread, I come back to read this all the time. Selling my h22a4 out of my sh here this weekend so I'll have enough to buy the new engine and tranny soon .
dartin sleeves flanged mic ur crank get new bearings arp studs main and head, cometic gasket i got my rods from stargalaxy rated for 1000 horse stock water and oil pump and then its just little stuff but the big items are critical
@ Bobby V What kind of engine are you planning to get?
Its weird that I didn't get an email to your post, I came across this thread again to refresh my memory. I actually just bought an h23a1 out of a 92 prelude Si. The motor will be here tomorrow (if I get out of work in time to pick it up). Looking at rods, pistons and sleeves right now....not sure if I'm gonna go with Darton Full M.I.D. Sleeves or cast iron replacement sleeves. Also looking at Golden eagle rods right now, I've only found rods by Brian Crower that match the same length as the rods in the h23a1 I bought. Any insight would be great because I have the money now to get the sleeves, rods, and pistons. My plan is to go with Darton sleeves, JE forged pistons for 9:1 CR, and Golden Eagle rods.
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